What To Do 



--To Keep Down Motoring Expenses 

■-To Avoid or Remedy Motoring 
Troubles. 



A Practical Handbook 
For Motorists 

By 
W. D. C. Moore 

With Chapters on Various Essential Parts 

and Functions Contributed by 

Well Known Authorities 



The Motor Book Company, Inc. 

Benton Harbor, Michigan 






Copyright Applied for 
by 
The Motor Book Company, Inc. 



UcT 



FEB 24 1922 



@)G!.A653885 



O-vxr* / 



Dedication 



You remember him — that Chap you 
found, ten miles from anywhere, stand- 
ing by the side of a "dead" automo- 
bile. 

He had tried the starter a hundred times 
or less, repeatedly turned the lights on 
and off, looked at all his spark plugs and 
even kicked the tires but the darn thing 
simply would not go ! 

And then, you came along, found that his 
timer wire had grounded, fixed it and he 
thought you a wizard, no less. 

Let's dedicate this book to him with the 
?iope that it may save him, and others 
like him, many hours of aimless puttering 
by showing them WHAT TO DO. 



Introductory 



Would you become the Master as well as the Owner 
of your car — able to drive it effic5ently and economic- 
ally when ''she's running fine" — able to fix it, or least to 
know what is wrong, when it develops the ailments to 
which an automobile is commonly subject? If so, this 
book is for you. 

It will make no effort to teach you automobile re- 
pairing in any broad or technical sense. It will not tell 
you how to rebore cylinders, grind valves, replace piston 
rings or how to repair or replace any broken or worn 
out essential part. Such work lies almost wholly within 
the field of the automobile repair man and usually calls 
for special mechanical knowledge, special tools and shop 
equipment. You will be well advised to leave it to a 
competent repair man whose experience and equip- 
ment assuredly qualify him to make such repairs more 
efficiently than any mechanically inclined amateur, 
however gifted. 

And, even if you have the knack, the ambition and 
the ability to do real surgical work on your car, your 
talents in that direction will be needed but seldom. 
Probably ninety per cent of automobile troubles yield to 
what may be called "simple home remedies-" 

Those mysterious and often terrifying knocks, the 
poundings, rattles and wheezes, failure to start, going 
"dead " on the road, the missing, the overheating — all 
the long, long list of automobile troubles, barring only 
those caused by broken or worn out parts, — none of 
them need chill you with dark forebodings of a car out 
of commission and a probable repair bill. You your- 
self, can nearly always end them with a "simple home 
remedy" and without a great amount of work or an- 



noyance if you have ordinary mechanical abihty and if 
you are not afraid to sometimes soil your hands. 

First, you will want to know what the trouble is and, 
next, what to do. It is the purpose of this book to help 
you find an answer to both questions. It may not cover 
every trouble which CAN happen but you can depend 
on it to cover the troubles which you will most com- 
monly encounter and when you are able to cope with all 
the ordinary troubles, you will be able to go the balance 
of the route unaided. 

You will be Master of the car you own. 

W. D. C. M. 



WHAT TO DO 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 

Chapter Page 

I— You Must Know What Makes It Go 11 

Importance of a thorough knowledge of the car 
Value of information contained in the instruction 
book' published by car manufacturer. 

II — On Proper Driving 16 

"Good Form" and "Bad Form" in driving. Some 
driving suggestions. 

Ill— Accidents 24 

Cardinal virtues of the successful motorist de- 
fined. Most common causes of — ^The Chance 
Taker. 

IV — Motor Car Insurance 30 

(By C. Perry, Secretary Automobile Underwrit- 
ers Co.) History, Forms, Rates, Value of. 

V— Traffic Laws 35 

Legal enactment of principles of Safety First. 
Points usually covered by. 

VI— Stitch in Time Saves Nine 39 

Importance of Proper Care of Car. Proper Care 
defined. Suggested inspection charts. Daily, 
Weekly, Semi-Monthly, Monthly. 

VII — Treatise on Automobile Lubrication 47 

(By Fred J. Bedford S. A. E. Magnolia Petro- 
lum Co.) Importance of proper lubrication. 
Proper lubrication defined with illustrations. 

VIII— Care of the Engine 75 

External Care. Compression leaks. Carbon. 

Knocks. 

IX — What Every Car Owner Ought to Know About His 

Engine 81 

(By J. F. Page, Continental Motors Corpora- 
tion.) Fundamentals. Relation of engine to 
vehicle. Essentials to economical operation. 



WHAT TO DO 



■ TABLE OF CONTENTS— Continued. 

Chapter Page 
X— The Storage Battery 88 

(By J. J. King, Standard Storage Battery Co.) 
What every car owner ought to know about his 
storage battery. Proper care defined. The 
ammeter. Operating troubles. Their remedy. 

XI— The Ford Timer 98 

(By Ian E. Maltby, Milwaukee Engine and 
Supply Co.) Its troubles. How detected. How 
remedied. How avoided. 

XII— The Fuel System , 101 

Necessary routine care. Leaks. The Carbure- 
tor, Buying gasoline. Exhaust fumes. In case 
of fire. 

XIII— The Carburetor 107 

(By V. I. Shobe, Zenith Carburetor Co.) Trou- 
bles of — How corrected — Care of. 

XIV— The Cooling System Ill 

Routine care. Troubles. Remedies. 

XV— Piston Rings 115 

(By A. J. Mummert, McQuay Norris Manufac- 
turing Co,) Installation. Service. Relation 
to oil consumption. Oversize rings. Replace- 
ment, 

XVI— The Clutch 121 

'Use and abuses of — Routine care of — Troubles 
and remedies. 

XVII— The Brakes 124 

Necessary care of — Inspection of — Braking 
pressure. Troubles. Adjustments. Lining. 
Loose rods and connections. 

XVIII— The Transmission 127 

Use and abuse. Noisy gear changes. Routine 
care of. 



WHAT TO DO 

TABLE OF CONTENTS— Continued. 
Chapter Page 

XIX— The Rear Axle, Differential and Other Parts of the 

Rear End, Assembly 129 

Rear axle. Differential. Universal Joints. 
Torque arm, rod or tube. Inspection. Loose- 
ness. Abnormal noises. Necessary care of. 

XX— The Electric Equipment 133 

Electric connections and wiring. Short Cir- 
cuits and broken connections. How evidenced. 
How detected. How remedied. The lighting 
system. The ignition system. Magneto igni- 
tion. Vibrator spark coils. Battery ignition. 
Points for care in all ignition systems. Spark 
plugs. The generator. The starter. 

XXI — What a Motorist Should Know About the Bearings 

In His Car 146 

(By H. T. Dieterich, Bearings Service Com- 
pany.) Routine care of — Essentials to satis- 
factory service. Use of shims. Lubrication. 

XXII— The Steering Gear 153 

Necessary inspection and care of — Lubrica- 
tion — adjustment. 

XXIII— The Springs 155 

Trouble following neglect of — Points of inspec- 
tion. Lubrication. 

XXIV— The Tires 157 

Economy in selection of — Gyps. Seconds. Guar- 
antees. Tire fillers. Proper use of tires 
Common instances of abuse. How to get most 

mileage. 

XXV — Keeping the Car Spick and Span 163 

Cleaning and Polishing. Preservation of fin- 
ish. Care, cleaning and repairing of tops and 
upholstery. Looseness, rattles and squeaks, to 
prevent and remedy. 



WHAT TO DO 



TABLE OF CONTENTS— Continued. 

Chapter Page 
XXVI— Tops and Upholstery 169 

(By A. H. Berwald, E. I. du Pont de Nemours 
& Co.) How to prolong life. How to preserve 
or renew their appearance. Hints on repair 
and replacement. 

XXVII— Diagnosing Troubles 173 

Logical way to look for. Finding by elimina- 
tion. / 

XXVIII — Some Common Troubles 176 

Their cause and remedy. 

Index 153 



WHAT TO DO 



CHAPTER I 



YOU MUST KNOW WHAT MAKES IT GO 

Just as the small boy said, in his composition on 
pins, that 'Tins have saved lots of lives by people not 
swallering of them," it may also be said, of the 
troubles, annoyances and inordinate expenses fre- 
quently incident to running an automobile, that most of 
them can be cured by being prevented. 

It all depends on the degree to which the owner is 
interested in his car. No matter whether his interest 
arises fnom a prideful desire to drive a good-looking, 
sweet-running car that can always be depended upon to 
carry him swiftly and smoothly any time and anywhere 
the roads go or whether he values his car mainly for its 
utility and is interested almost wholly in its ability to 
run and keep on running without bother and at mini- 
mum expense. No matter why he is interested in his 
car, if he is really interested in it, he will find it no 
great trouble to use an "ounce of prevention" which 
will enable him to escape ninety per cent of all the mo- 
toring troubles he has ever experienced or heard of and, 
incidentally, to save the cost of the "pound of cure" 
which otherwise must be paid for in time, trouble or in 
hard cash to the repair or supply man. 

This "ounce of prevention" contains no elements of 
magic or of mystery. It calls for nothing more than 
the appreciation of a basic fact (to which most drivers 

11 



WHAT TO DO 

pay little heed) namely, that notwithstanding its marv- 
elous efficiency, an automobile is only a machine which, 
like any other machine, must be operated properly and 
cared for correctly if it is to run with greatest effi- 
ciency, fewest repairs and adjustments and at the 
minimum expense. 

To the credit of American automobile manufacturers, 
it can be said that nearly every standard car on the 
market is well and honestly built — built to run on and 
on, indefinitely, and give all that its owner can ask for 
in reliable and economical service. How long and how 
well it will run and wh^t it will cost to run it, depends 
more on the driver than on the manufacturer. 

Not infrequently one sees or hears about some car 
that is still running after years and years of satisfac- 
tory service. Of course such a record indicates that the 
car had lots of in-built stamina, but it indicates also — 
and more emphatically — that it must have been driven 
by a man who knew how to drive it and how to take 
care of it. Poor (careless and inconsiderate) drivers 
never hang up any economy, reliability or long-service 
records, no matter what make of car they drive. 

A driver's license is not conclusive evidence of driv- 
ing proficiency. The mere ability to drive a car — to 
steer and to work the various pedals and levers and 
switches — falls far short of being all that one must 
know and do in order to be a really successful motorist. 

However skillful one may* be at the steering wheel, 
his skill can not offset a lack of intimate knowledge of 
his car.- The less he knows about it, the more it will 
cost him to run it, the more "trouble" he will have with 
it, the sooner he will want to sell it and the less he will 

12 



WHAT TO DO 

get for it because used cars, like old horses, reflect the 
nature of their previous service. 

If the driver's knowledge of his car is restricted to 
the four S's — start, steer, slow down and stop — if he 
knows nothing about how the mechanism of his car 
works, "its wonders to perform," he will never be able 
to get from it all the service for pleasure or for profit 
which the manufacturer of the car has been at such 
great pains to build into it. 

Realizing this, every car manufacturer furnishes 
with each car an "instruction book" which describes his 
car in fullest detail. The information a driver may ob- 
tain from some friend or from an instructor or what- 
ever he may know about some other car of a different 
make will be of value but nothing can take the place of 
the first-hand information to be gleaned from the in- 
struction book that comes with the car. 

But because this book is not im^pressively bound or 
perhaps because the car-owner considers it as some 
sort of a catalog or a piece of literature intended to 
still further "sell" him on the merits of his car, it is too 
often thrown away or put away after a casual reading 
and the car owner remains without any real or definite 
knowledge regarding the mechanism of his car and the 
attention required by certain parts of it. 

If you are a Novice, driving your first car, master 
your instruction book. If you've lost it, call on the 
dealer for another copy. Read it, study it; find out 
the function of each essential part ; learn each part by 
name and location so that you can find it on your car. 
Be sure you learn which parts require attention and 
how often and which parts you should leave alone, 

18 



WHAT TO DO 

Above all — learn what points should be lubricated and 
how often and the kind of lubricant advised by the 
manufacturer. 

If you are an Old Timer, don't be too confident in 
your knowledge. What you know about one make of 
car may not be all you need to know about a car of dif- 
ferent make. If you are not absolutely familiar with 
the car you are driving this year, you had better study 
the instruction book that describes it. No matter how 
much you know, a "review" won't hurt you. 

The manufacturer of a car knows more about it than 
anyone else. He is directly interested in helping the 
owner to operate it with satisfaction. He has published 
his instruction book in order to help the owner to an 
understanding of his car and its various working parts, 
how to drive it and how to care for it in order for it to 
serve with greatest efficiency and least expense. 

It is the car owner who hasn't become thoroughly ac- 
quainted with his car — whether from his instruction 
book or any other authoritative source — who knows 
only that gas, oil and water, put in at proper places, 
"makes her go" — who has most "trouble" and is the 
most frequent visitor at the service station with com- 
plaints of something being wrong. His operating ex- 
perience is nearly always expensive and if not actually 
unsatisfactory, he at least, fails to get from his car 
the sort of service the manufacturer intended him to 
get, and usually he blames the manufacturer for it. 

The more intimately a driver knows his car — each 
part, the functions of each part and the attention each 
part requires — the less reason he will ever have to com- 
plain about the way it runs or what it costs to run it. 

14 



WHAT TO DO 

If he knows exactly "what makes it go," he can and will 
give it the attention it needs to keep it running sweetly 
and he can and will avoid any driving practice that is 
likely to cause undue strain, unnecessary wear or tend, 
in any way, to lower its efficiency. 

There is no road to real driving efficiency that does 
not lead over the hill Knowledge. If you take a detour, 
you'll never get there and you'll miss most of the motor- 
ing pleasure you paid for when you bought your car. 



15 



WHAT TO DO 



CHAPTER II 

ON PROPER DRIVING— 
Some "Driving Suggestions" 

"Good form" and "bad form" in driving is largely a 
matter of temperament, if one is constitutionally- 
careless or negligent, one will naturally drive in a 
"slap dash" manner that will be hard, alike, on car and 
pocket-book. 

But, on the other hand, if a Car-owner is interested 
in his car and really wants to operate it in the way it 
should be operated and his desire to do so has been 
strong enough to prompt him to seek and acquire an in- 
timate knowledge of its mechanism, his driving exper- 
ience will be generally trouble-free and comparatively 
inexpensive. Then, to be able to drive properly — with- 
out accident or, at any rate, without accidents caused by 
his own lack of skill or care — without undue strain or 
wear upon the motor, the transmission, the brakes, the 
batteries or other essential parts and without excessive 
expense for repairs, adjustments or supplies — he will 
need only driving experience. 

While, in driving a car, just as in anything else, a 
man must get his own experience, he may be helped by 
the experience of others. It is to enable the interested 
car owner to thus supplement what he may learn from 
his own personal experience with hints gleaned from 

16 



WHAT TO DO 

the experience of others that the accompanying "Driv- 
ing Suggestions" are given. 

To the driver of long experience, many of these will 
appear elementary but among the number given, even 
he will hardly fail to find at least a few that should 
helpfully increase his motoring knowledge. 

The simplest, easiest, and safest way for a beginner to be- 
come familiar with the various levers, pedals and switches 
is for him to jack ,up the rear wheels clear of the ground, 
letting the rear end rest on a box or other solid object that 
will hold it steady, and then get in, start the engine and 
practice with the spark, th0 accelerator, the clutch, the gear 
shift and the brake .until he can handle each with perfect ease 
and certainty. 

A beginner should not attempt to drive at all until he is 
absolutely confident in his ability to change gears easily, ap- 
ply brakes properly and do both without any danger of be- 
coming confused in an emergency. 

No beginner, however confident in his ability to start, steer, 
slow down, stop, etc., should venture out on the road un- 
accompanied by an experienced driver until his knowledge has 
been confirmed by practice. 

Before starting out see that the radiator is full, that there is 
plenty of gasoline in the tank and — ^without any guessing — 
that there is plenty of oil. Ask yourself when the grease cups? 
were looked after and inspect any you may be doubtful about. 
See if the tires are sufficiently inflated. To save time by neg- 
lecting these details is to "save at the spigot and waste at the 
bung." 

Before starting engine, see that gear lever is in Neutral; in- 
sert switch key as far as it will go and give proper turn; see 
that throttle is open but slightly and that spark is fully re- 
tarded; pull out choker; press down firmly on starter pedal or 
button. 

The instant the engine starts, take the foot off the starter. 
Otherwise serious damage may result. 

Never allow motor to run any length of time with the choker 
out. This gives an excessively rich mixture and consumes an 
abnormal amount of gasoline besides promoting the formation 
of carbon. 

If the engine doesn't start after a fair trial with the starter, 
leave the starter alone and look for the trouble. Its no use 

17 



WHAT TO DO 

to wear out the batteries by making the starter turn the 
engine over uselessly. 

To conserve starter current, it is good practice to hold clutch 
ouf while starter is cranking the engine. 

After the engine starts, advance the spark. To run with 
spark retarded not only consumes an unnecessary amount of 
gasoline but also has a tendency to overheat the engine and 
causes rapid carzonization. 

Running with the spark advanced tends to keep down heating 
and lessens gasoline consumption but if advanced too far the 
engine will pound or knock. Learn by experimenting the most 
advanced position practicable. When using low gear on hills 
or in sand or mud, the spark should be advanced further than 
when running in high gear at ordinary rate of speed on good 
roads. Generally speaking, the faster the engine (not neces- 
sarily the car) is running ,the further the spark should be ad- 
vanced. 

Do not race motor unnecessarily when starting, especially in 
cold weather. Allow motor to run slowly for a few minutes 
until the oil has had a chance to circulate. Oil congeals when 
cold, but thins rapidly after the motor is started. Racing the 
motor is injurious and is not needed at any time. 

For the same reason, one should not drive fast until the 
motor has had time to ,warm up. 

When starting car, be sure the gear lever is in Neutral before 
letting in clutch. Never attempt to start with car in gear. 
After engine is running well, move from Neutral into Low, 
press in clutch and as the car gains a little momentum, into 
Second and on into High which is thei usual driving position. 
Never attempt to start in gear — even in Low. 

When changing from a lower to a higher gear, be careful 
that the car is moving with good momentum. Otherwise, the 
engine will stall or "buck-jump" with consequent strain *and 
racki;ng. Always speed up a little before making gear change 
and be sure to remove foot from accelerator before pressing 
out clutch. 

Be very sure to press out clutch before making any gear 
change or broken teeth will likely result. 

The clutch pedal should be pressed out sharply and released 
slowly — always slowly — in order to permit it to take hold 
gradually. 

To change from a higher speed to a lower, release clutch, 
speed up a little, move gear into Neutral and engage clutch an 
instant, press out clutch and move quickly from Neutral into 
next lower position, engage clutch, immediately opening the 
throttle or foot control. To move lever from Neutral directly 

18 



WHAT TO DO 

to lower gear position desired is easier but wears or burns the 
clutch facing. 

Learn how to shift gears easily. Noisy, clashing gear 
changes indicate either ignorance or carelessness. Clashing 
the gears burrs the edges of the gear teeth. When they get 
in that condition, gear changes are hard to malce and an early 
renewal of the gears will be necessary. 

Many an accident occurs from unwillingness or hesitation in 
changing gears. A car in High is permitted to drift along 
and get into a tight place in traffic and a collision or other ac- 
cident results. Better always change into a lower gear if 
there is any probability of it becoming necessary to do so. 

Unless a driver wants to "show off," he will not climb hills on 
High. If he succeeds in doing so, he does it at the expense of 
his car and if he fails — if the engine stalls — he may roll back- 
ward and off the road before he can make the necessary gear 
change. He had better take a running start whenever pos- 
sible and the moment the momentum is spent, shift into Sec- 
ond or even into Low if the engine begins to labor. 

In j.;T>ing down a hill, shift into high, throw out the clutch and 
let the car coast, keeping it under control with the foot brake 
and the emergency brake, using each alternately, so as to pre- 
vent either from becoming too hot from cOntinuoiis friction. If 
the hill is very steep, go into Second just before starting down, 
switch off the ignition and let the clutch in gradually. The 
engine will then act as a brake, but the brakes should also be 
used as suggested above. 

On coming to a considerable stretch of road that is sandy, 
muddy, rough or otherwise bad, do not try to force your way 
through it on High. Better shift into Second at once and 
get the benefit of the extra power and lessened strain thus 
secured. 

To reverse the car, bring it to a standstill, press out clutch, 
then shift into Neutral and then straight back into reverse and 
release clutch slowly. Never attempt to reverse while the car 
has the least forward motion. 

The Novice must become so sure of the different gear positions 
that he can make any change desired instinctively and without 
looking, for instance what would be the result from going 
into Reverse in crowded traffic when it was desired to go into 
Low instead. 

Keep the eyes looking the way the car is moving — front or 
back, when going backward, never try to judge where the rear 
end is going by watching the front end. 

When approaching a short stretch of road covered by broken 
stone or filled with ruts, it is best to speed up before reaching 
the bad spot and then release the clutch and permit the car 
to coast over or through it. This saves the tires since there 

19 



WHAT TO DO 

is no power on the wheels and also relieves the motor and driv- 
ing mechanism from the strain. 

Learn the great variations in speed which may bes obtained 
when in any gear position by proper manipulation of the spark 
and throttle. Whenever it becomes necessary to reduce the 
speed of the car considerably release the clutch and apply the 
brake. 

Do not ever compel the engine to pull against the brake sucn 
as is the case when the foot brake is used to reduce speed while 
the clutch is engaged. If it is necessary to use the brake, first 
press in the clutch. 

Learn how to apply the brakes so as to bring the ca]< to a 
gradual stop. To approach the stopping point at speed and then 
jam the brakes on hard may help the driver to make a showy 
"wild west" stop, but he pays for it in strain on the car and 
great and unnecessary wear on brakes and tires. 

If you must stop in a hurry, push down hard on both the 
clutch and foot brake pedal and at the same time pull back on 
the emergency brake lever. 

On a slippery roadway, a greater braking effect can be 
obtained with less danger from skidding, by pressing the clutch 
out and throwing the foot brake on and off. That is, holding the 
brake down an instant, releasing it and then pressing it down 
again. 

Two things to remember about the emergency brake; always 
put it on when the car has come to a stop; always release it 
before the car is put in motion. The latter is something which 
some drivers consistently forget to do with reoults that can 
be easily imagined. 

Be sure that the brakes are adjusted evenly. That is, that 
they "take hold" with equal tightness on each rear wheel. If 
they don't, the least harm that can ensue will be the premature 
wearing out of the tire on the wheel with the tighter brake. 

It is good practice, on stopping and before you have killed 
the engine to open the throttle and speed up engine with clutch 
out. This leaves a charge in the cylinder and makes starting 
easier. 

Any driver who wishes to do so can attract a lot of attention 
by taking corners on two wheels, but "he who dances must pay 
the fiddler." No car is built to stand such foolishness. 

Slow down before turning corners not only for the sake of 
greater safety to yourself and others, but for the sake of your 
car and particularly of your tires, as well. It is said that 
rounding one corner at twenty-five miles an hour does more 
damage to tires than twenty or twenty-five miles of straight 
driving. 

Turning corners too rapidly, particularly on slippery streets, 
is one of the most fruitful causes of skidding, especially on the 
front wheels. 

When the front wheels skid, the trouble can usually be stop- 

20 



WHAT TO DO 

ped easily by applying the brakes and shutting- off the power, 
being careful not to apply the brakes too hard or the rear 
wheels may start skidding too. 

When the rear; wheels skid, do not yield to the natural in- 
clination to turn the front wheels in the direction opposite to 
the way the car is skidding. Be cautions too, about applying 
the brakes. Cut off nearly all the power and turn the wheels 
in the same direction the car is skidding. If there is danger 
of going into a ditch or curb or colliding, apply the brakes 
gently. 

Chances of skidding may be minimized by the use of "non- 
skid chains. On muddy roads they are well nigh indispensable 
and if one must drive on wet, icy or otherwise slippery pave- 
ments, they are almost equally necessary. Considering the 
damage which can be wrought by a skidding car, it is hardly 
too much to say that any motorisht can ill afford not to buy 
chains and to apply them at the first indication of their need. 

Keep out of the car tracks and out of ruts as much as pos- 
sible. To drive in these results in excessive wear on the thin- 
ner side walls of the tires. When you must drive in them, 
get out as soon as possible. In doing so, do not allow your front 
wheels to climb out along the edge. Make a sharp turn and 
jump out. Do not attempt to do this, -however if you are going 
at any considerable speed' or if you are driving in car tracks 
filled with water. 

Learn, early, what happens when you turn the steering wheel. 
That is, how far the movement of the steering wheel will af- 
fect the movement of the front wheels. 

A death like: grip on the steering wheel indicates anxiety, 
nervousness and lack of confidence. Don't worry. Assume a 
natural, easy position. Take things as a matter of course. 
Everybody's doing it. You ca ndrive successfully if you know 
and use what you know. That death-like grip soon tires to 
the point of nervous exhaustion. 

If it is ever necessary to change the direction of the front 
wheels while the car is not in motion, better do it by hand. To 
use the steering wheel for this purpose imposes a very great 
and entirely needless strain on the whole steering mechanism. 

In going over bridges, sidewalks, tracks or other similar ob- 
structions, it is better to strike them at an angle, thus throwing 
the strain on the springs successively and reducing the bounce 
and jar. 

If it should ever be necessary or advisable to drive into a 
ditch, unless the ditch is very shallow, turn the wheels head 
on into the opposite bank. The front springs will then lodge 
into the dirt on the other side and keep the car from turning 
over.Furthermore, the car can more easily be pulled out after- 
ward. 

The dog you run over may have "its day" the day you run 

21 



WHAT TO DO 

over it. Better slow down, even at the risk of him biting off a 
front wheel, than run over him. His body may make you skid 
into some obstruction or into a ditch and it is even more likely 
that your steering mechanism will be damaged. The same 
caution also applies to pigs. They are dangerous even for 
locomotives. 

If you want to announce to the world that yoij are a Novice 
or out for a spree with a rented car, blow your horn excessively. 
Keep it blowing. Otherwise, blow it only when you want to 
pass a car in front, when approaching a street intersection, or 
whenever, for safety's sake, you want to give warning of your 
approach. 

It is not always appropriate to swear if the car approaching 
you at night has headlights so bright as to almost blind you. 
Maybe its driver is having just the same trouble on account of 
your lights. You might promote headlight courtesy and help 
abolish the glaring headlight nuisance if you would always re- 
member to dim your lights when approaching another car or 
even a lowly farm wagon. 

Avoid confusion and danger from the glaring headlights of 
an aproaching car by looking not at it but at the ditch on your 
side of the road and be guided by it until the car has passed. 

If a single headlight is approaching it is not always safe to 
assume that it is on :i motorcycle. Give it plenty of road space. 
It may be that one light is out on an approaching car and if the 
extinguished light is on your side, a collision might result. 

Be very careful in passing another car which has slowed 
down or which is standing still on the road ahead of you. 
Slow down and blow your horn. Otherwise some one might 
step out in front of your car and an injury result. 

"Look out for the cars" is advice that is just as' good for 
the sophisticated motorist of today as it used to be for Farmer 
Corntossel. If the railroad is at the bottom or on top of a 
grade, better come into Second and look and listen before at- 
tempting to cross, rather than run the risk of killing your en- 
gine in front of an oncoming train by a too sudden application 
of power. 

Don't race with a train for a crossing. Every day you hear 
of such races which resulted in a tie — and a funeral. 

Before backing a car, be sure the road is clear, not only of 
other cars but of pedestrians, baby buggies and other vehicles 
and keep watching. 

In passing another car going in the same direction, don't turn 
into the road ahead of it too quickly. It may be moving faster 
than you estimate and disaster may result. 

Keep to the left when passing cars or other vehicles going 
in the same direction; to the right when passing cars moving 
toward you. 

Pay frequent attention to the story your ammeter has to 

22 



WHAT TO DO 

tell. Should the pointer indicate "discharge" when the car is 
standing still with the lights off or if it does not indicate that 
the" battery is charging when the car is running, drive right 
down to a competent Service Station and find out the trouble. 
Better not put this off even if it delays you to an appointment. 

Never put cold water into a radiator while the motor is hot. 
Put your hand on the cylinder head; if you can not hold it there 
with comfort, wait until it cools before putting in water. Other- 
wise you run an excellent chance of cracking the cylinder. 

Learn the song' your car sings when it is running fine so 
that your ear will detect immediately any abnormal noise. The 
modern car, in perfect condition, is practically noiseless. If 
it develops a /knock, a squeak, \a rattle or click, it is trying to 
tell you that something is wrong and you had better see what 
it is before something worse befalls you. 

Motoring courtesy is all too rare. The best w^ay to encour- 
age it in others is to practice it yourself. Don't drive in the 
middle of the road — "regardless." Keep to the right and when 
somebody wants to pass, get over further. On coming to a 
stretch of road with a good track only on one side, don't drive 
in and force another car to stop or climb out into the rough. 
The best road rule is the Golden Rule. 

To drive without offense to the walking and driving public 
and without danger to them as well as to himself, the motorist 
must be considerate as well as skillful. Drivers of horse drawn 
vehicles, for instance, must be sometimes protected against 
themselves, if necessary. These may be driven by poor drivers 
who are not unlikely to become rattled and pull the wrong rein 
or the team may get frightened. The motorist must act the 
part of a "kind and elder brother" and drive in such a manner 
as will prevent accidents — even such accidents as might be 
caused by the carelessness or limited intelligence of others. 



23 



WHAT TO DO 



CHAPTER III 

ACCIDENTS 

The Cardinal Virtues of the successful motorist 
are really three in number. In addition to knowledge 
of his car, he must also have Common Sense and a De- 
cent Regard for the Rights of Others. The lack or 
momentary disregard of the last two of these is always 
evidenced by carelessness which is the direct cause of 
nearly every automobile accident. 

On the walls of a certain factory where thousands 
of men are employed, appear numerous placards which 
read "The Chance Taker is the Accident Maker." This 
terse statement contains so much of truth and is so 
particularly applicable to the operation of an automo- 
bile that it might well be memorized by every automo- 
bile driver. The observance of the warning it implies 
would do more than anything else to rid. our daily pa- 
pers of the stories of automobile accidents to which so 
much of their space is now devoted. 

You see the locomotive engineer leaning out of his 
cab, his eyes fixed on the road, his hand on the throttle 
keeping his mechanism always under control, always 
watchful for any contingency which might necessitate 
a warning blast from his whistle, a slow down or a 
sudden stop. If he does this for no other reason, he 
does it because the rules laid down by his employers 

24 



WHAT TO DO 

require it and they require it because it is only by con- 
stant care and watchfulness that accidents can be 
avoided. 

If such caution is necessary to the safe operation of 
a locomotive the course of which is fixed by a smooth 
track and which runs on a time and speed schedule 
which assures it the right of way, how much more cau- 
tion should be observed in driving- an automobile. Con- 
trast the regular and usual operation of a locomotive 
with the harum-scarum, devil-may-care manner in 
which some automobiles are driven. Is it any wonder 
that the yearly damage to life and property due to au- 
tomobile accidents is so much larger than similar losses 
due to railway wrecks or accidents ? 

Failure to sound a warning isignal. Failure to give 
signal of intention to turn, back or stop. Failure to 
look and listen at railway crossing. Confusion in an 
emergency. Inability of brake to stop car when ap- 
plied. Skidding. Disregard of Traffic I^aws. Disre- 
gard of the rights of others. Speeding. 

These, according to statistics, are the principal 
causes of automobile accidents. Analyze them one by 
one and in each you will find the trail of the Chance 
Taker. 

And — to take chances — is this anything other than 
just another name for Carelessness ? Can there be any 
other reason for failure to sound the horn when a warn- 
ing signal is necessary ? 

If a driver, on turning a corner, on stopping or back- 
ing up, fails to give the proper manual signal, can he 
blame anyone but himself if a collision or other accident 
results ? 

Confusion in an emergency and the consequent doing 

25 



WHAT TO D O 

of the wrong thing can hardly result from anything 
other than a lack of knowledge or a lack of experience. 
Isn't it Taking Chances to attempt to operate a car un- 
der such conditions ? 

When the brakes are unable to stop the car, whether 
this be due to worn or oil soaked brake linings or 
whether it is because the car was going too fast, in 
either case, is it not due to plain carelessneBs in 
seeing that the brakes are kept in good condition? 

"Put on your chains at the first drop of rain" warns 
the display line in an advertisement of a non-skid chain 
manufacturer. Isn't it Taking Chances to drive with- 
out chains on a slippery roadway ? 

There is a type of driver who feels that the modern 
traffic laws and likewise the ancient law embodied in 
the Golden Rule, tend to unreasonably abridge his 
rights as a free-born citizen, and he joys in his "smart- 
ness" when he successfully evades them. 

He is the type who is highly amused at the antics of 
the startled pedestrian who barely escapes the wheels of 
his rushing juggernaut. At night, his presence is in- 
dicated by the blinding glare of his headlights and, by 
sticking always to the middle of the roadway, he com- 
pels recognition of his standing in the order of free and 
acknowledged road-hogs. 

He is a Chance Taker of the most dangerous type. 
Naturally, he provides the direct or contributing cause 
for many an accident. If his "smartness" enables him, 
in this life, to escape the law and the punishment he so 
richly deserves, surely the motorists and others whom 
he has so often imperiled, may, without impiety, in- 

26 



WHAT TO DO 

dulge the hope and the belief that he will get what he 
deserves in the hereafter. 

And — to complete the list of the sins committed by 
the Chance Taker, comes speeding; the cause of most 
of the automobile accidents as well as the source of 
countless minor strains and injuries which inevitably 
lessen the usefulness and shorten the life of the car. 

The comic paragraph ers have printed many jokes 
about the witless fool who "rocks the boat" but how 
much more newspaper space has been taken up by 
stories of automobile accidents due to reckless and even 
criminally careless speeding. 

We are mildly interested when some hardy soul leaps 
from Brooklyn Bridge or shoots the rapids over Niagara 
Falls. So long as such exploits do not endanger others 
who value their lives more highly, we do not greatly 
care and we may even mildly applaud the "nerve" of 
the adventurer who attempts such feats. 

No sensible person, however, can regard with com- 
placence or can to any degree admire the skill or 
"nerve" of the driver who habitually takes comers "on 
two wheels," who speeds across traffic filled streets or 
who continually endeavors on city streets or country 
roads to emulate the speedway records of Oldfield or 
Milton. 

If indulgence in a practice so dangerous is due to a 
lack of common sense or of decent regard for the rights 
and safety of others, it indicates a state of mind and 
the case is well-nigh hopeless. Traffic laws and traf- 
fic officers may impose some degree of helpful restraint 
but no real remedy exists short of penitentiary or the 
grave. 

It is to be admitted that the temptation to speed may 

27 



WHAT TO DO 

sometimes be so strong that even the most sensible and 
careful driver may almost be pardoned for yielding to 
it. When the car is running fine and the road is 
smooth, "Danger has a smiling face." The driver feels 
that nothing will happen if he "lets her out a little" — 
and frequently nothing does happen any worse than the 
severe strain and rack to the car which is of course 
inevitable. 

But, to yield to such temptation is to Take Chances. 
The greater the speed, the more likelihood there is of 
an accident and if something does happen, it is all over 
in an instant. 

You do not have to be a scientist to figure out what 
might be the probable result if, running at forty or 
fifty miles an hour, a tire should blow out, a wheel 
come off or something go wrong with the steering 
mechanism. These are only a few of the things which 
can happen, to say nothing of the additional perils 
which can arise from other cars you may pass or meet 
or which, despite your warning horn, might drive out 
from an intersecting road and across your path. 

The things which can happen are, literally, too num- 
erous to mention. One accident, which demolished two 
cars and killed two people with serious injury to three 
others, was caused by a little fishing pole carried by a 
child, in a car which was met on a narrow road by an- 
other car going at a high rate of speed. The pole, stick- 
ing out at the side, struck the windshield of the speed- 
ing car, the driver dodged, his wheel swerved and the 
cars collided. 

On another occasion, a driver going at a high speed 
was struck in the face by a grasshopper which flew in 

28 



WHAT TO DO 

at the side with the result that he lost control of the 
wheel for an instant, the car rammed the abutment of 
a concrete bridge and toppled over into the stream. 

The possible complications are limitless. A car that 
is moving so fast that its driver can not see and easily 
avoid every possible source of danger, is for all prac- 
tical purposes, a car out of control. A thoughtful man 
will hesitate to take the risk to himself and to others 
which such a condition entails. 

The most daringly spectacular race driver this coun- 
try has ever produced was being taken for a drive 
around one of the cities in which he was to race. On a 
long quiet stretch, the car was speeded up to nearly 
fifty miles an hour when the race driver leaned for- 
ward and urged, "Cut her down, Jack. A man is a fool 
to take such chances unless he is getting big money for 
it." Wasn't he about right ? 



29 



WHAT TO DO 



CHAPTER IV 

MOTOR CAR INSURANCE 

By C. Perry, Secretary, Automobile Underwriters' Co. , 

The ownership of an automobile involves many haz- 
ards. In fact the only time that an automobile is free 
from hazard is when its gasoline tank is emptied, bat- 
teries disconnected or removed, and the car itself is 
stored in a fire-proof vault. Consequently the automo- 
bile owner must protect himself against the risks at- 
tendant upon the ownership of a car. 

Automobile Insurance is divided into five major clas- 
sifications, viz.; Fire, Theft, Collision, Property Dam- 
age and Liability. Any one of these classifications, 
except theft, can be bought without taking the others, 
but experience has taught the average motor car owner 
that full coverage protection is the cheapest in the end. 
However, some trust to luck and omit one or more of 
the coverages and as a result usually pay dearly for 
an attempt to economize. 

Fire Insurance on automobiles was first written in 
1902 and included Transportation, but excluded damage 
by fire arising within the car. Three years later this 
was changed and the form now in effect was adopted. 
The present standard fire policy covers against fire^ 
arising from any cause, and lightning; also damages 
resulting from collision while being transported on a 
railway train, steam boat, etc. The liability of the 
company under a policy is limited to the actual cash, or 

30 



WHAT TO DO 

replacement value of the property at the time of the 
loss. Every make of car manufactured is subject to 
a specific rate which is based upon the mechanical con- 
struction of the car, credit being allowed for any im- 
provement to lessen the internal fire hazard. 

The Theft hazard has been one of the most proble- 
matical that Underwriters have had to deal with. This 
coverage was originally written in the United States by 
American Companies in 1905, in connection with the 
fire form. Up to a few years ago it was not regarded 
very seriously for the reason that there were com- 
paratively few automobiles manufactured and a stolen 
car could be easily identified. The present theft form 
covers loss caused by theft, robbery or pilferage by 
persons not in the employ of the automobile owner. The 
original intention of theft insurance was to cover the 
loss of the car and equipment as delivered by the fac- 
tory. However, several different accessories have since 
been manufactured and the automobile owners have 
demanded that the insurance companies pay for these 
accessories, even though they were not attached to the 
car when the car was originally purchased. About a 
year ago losses of accessories by theft became so num- 
erous that it was decided that it could only be reduced 
by eliminating all protection for accessories, and, there- 
fore, a restricted theft coverage has been adopted by all 
standard companies writing automobile insurance. 

The theft loss ratio during the past year has been 
abnormally high and rates have been increased in some 
sections so that the charge for this protection is almost 
prohibitive. The American public, as a rule, are very 
careless in protecting their own property. Cars are 
parked, without locks, in dark alleys and unlighted 

31 



WHAT TO DO 

streets, and the result has been the automobile thief has 
reaped a golden harvest from the sale of stolen cars. 
In addition the courts have dealt leniently with the au- 
tomobile thief, in some cities, punishment being given 
only in a few insolated cases. A few years ago horse 
sTealing was a hanging offense. Today automobile 
thievery has developed into a profitable business under- 
taking, and the thieves walk the streets unmolested, 
knowing that the law has so many loopholes that they 
can continue their nefarious acts without any severe 
punishment. The Insurance Companies are doing every- 
thing in their power to reduce losses by encouraging 
the manufacture of thief proof automobile locking de- 
vices, and urging their assured to equip their cars with 
locks. An allowance of 15 per cent of the theft pre- 
mium is made when a lock approved by the Underwrit- ^ 
ers has been installed. 

Collision insurance protects the car owner against 
damage to his own car by reason of accidental collis- 
ion with another object, either moving or stationary. 
There are three forms of collision insurance writen, 
known as full coverage, $50.00 deductible and $100.00 
deductible. When collision insurance was first written, 
in 1907, the companies were not liable unless the 
amount of the damages exceeded $25.00. This was 
done principally to prevent the companies being flooded 
with small claims, such as dented fenders, scratched 
paint, etc., but it was found that this coverage could not 
be profitably written for the reason that the average 
person reporting a loss would see to it that the damage 
exceeded $25.00. Therefore, the three coverages men- 
tioned above were adopted. The full coverage policy pays 
for the entire loss, the $50-00 deductible provides that 

32 



WHAT TO DO 

the first $50.00 of every claim is borne by the assured, 
and the $100.00 deductible form permits the assured to 
carry the first $100.00 of any loss. Naturally the 
$50.00 deductible form is purchased more freely than 
the other two coverages, for the reason that the full 
coverage collision rate has been necessarily raised to 
such a figure that it is impracticable for any car owner 
of small means to carry full coverage collision insur- 
ance, and, therefore, he seeks the $50.00 deductible 
form which costs him about 60 per cent less than the 
full coverage policy. The rapid increase of the number 
of cars operated has naturally increased the hazard so 
that the insurance companies have been required to 
raise their collision rates annually in order to take care 
of the losses. There is not a company writing business 
today which has shown any profit in writing collision 
insurance. 

The next classification to be considered is Property 
Damage Coverage. This coverage protects the car 
owner against loss resulting from damages to other 
peoples' property, which means either a plate glass win- 
dow, another automobile, bicycle, or any other property. 
This coverage was first written in 1899, but within the 
past three or four years has been broadened to include 
the "loss of use" of the property damaged. This was 
caused by verdicts being rendered against car owners 
who inflicted damage to the car of someone dependent 
upon the use of his car for livelihood, and who might 
be compelled to hire another car while the damaged one 
was being repaired. There is no extra charge for the 
"loss of use" coverage, and the rate for the entire cov- 
erage is very low, being based principally upon the 
weight of the car and ease with which it can be con- 

33 



WHAT TO DO 

trolled. The company's usual liability is limited to 
$1,000.00, but additional limits can be obtained by the 
payment of a small additional premium. 

The most important classification is liability insur- 
ance. It was originally written in this country, in 1898, 
when electric cars were first manufactured. This form 
protects the liability of the car owner against loss re- 
sulting from damages on account of bodily injuries, in- 
flictejd upon any person or persons, as a result of the 
operation of the car. The usual limits for which the 
company is responsible is $5,000.00 for injury to any 
one person, and $10,000 for injuries to two or more 
people in any one accident. The ordinary cautious car 
owner should not be satisfied with these limits for the 
reason that the amount of damages that may be col- 
lected is limited only by the imagination of a chance 
picked jury, who have probably never owned or oper- 
ated an automobile. He should demand ten thousand 
and twenty thousand limits, which will give him more 
adequate protection. However, limits as high as three 
hundred thousand dollars can be written at a very small 
proportionate additional cost. Liability insurance is 
necessary for every car owner. The tendency of the 
courts is towards awarding heavy damage against the 
automobile driver,. Unscrupulous lawyers are making 
a practice of encouraging law suits for every injury 
caused by an automobile, no matter how slight. Large 
verdicts are being rendered daily. If only one class of 
insurance can be carried by an automobile owner it 
should be liability. 



34 



WHAT TO DO 



CHAPTER V 

TRAFFIC LAWS 

Although everyone is wilHng to concede, in principle, 
that traffic laws are necessary to safeguard, alike, the 
lives and rights of motorists, pedestrians and others, 
too many — if not most — motorists apparently feel that 
these laws are intended for the other fellow and do not 
hesitate to break them as often as they think they can 
safely "get away with it." 

Every day we hear of accidents which would not have 
occurred if some traffic law had not been violated, but 
accidents do not always follow; it is seldom that any- 
thing worse befalls the offender than being caught and 
fined and, since it is manifestly impossible for the of- 
ficers to see every violation of the traffic laws, the 
Chance Taking motorists usually does succeed in "get- 
ting away with it." 

While the violation of these laws does not necessarily 
indicate moral turpitude, it does indicate a greater or 
lesser degree of culpable selfishness — of disregard for 
the rights of others — and is the cause of the prejudice 
against automobiles and motorists in general which ex- 
ists in many rural towns and communities. 

Traffic laws are simply the legal enactment of the 
principles of "Safety First." Self-interest alone should 
prompt the motorist to obey them. If through disre- 
gard of them, he should directly or indirectly cause an 

35 



WHAT TO DO 

accident, he will have to pay a fine and if a damage 
suit results, the fact of his conviction will make it easy 
for the other fellow to get a judgment. 

In case of accident, the car owner should not leave 
the scene until he has obtained the names of all the par- 
ties to the accident and the names of all witnesses. He 
should make a diagram showing the street, the inter- 
sections, if any, the location of any street cars, wagons 
or other things which may have contributed to the 
cause, the position of the cars, the direction being trav- 
eled by each — such information, in general, as he may 
need in the prosecution or the defense of either a civil 
or criminal suit. 

The traffic laws of most states and cities are very 
much alike and generally cover the following points : 

Reckless driving shall be unlawful and shall include the 
following: (1) Driving any vehicle when intoxicated or when, 
for any reason, not competent to drive properly: (2) Driving 
any vehicle when it is not under control: (3) failing to 
exercise due care in crossing* or entering the traffic of another 
roadway: (4) Driving any vehicle across or into a Safety 
Zone: (5) Driving at a rate of speed that is unsafe or incon- 
siderate under any conditions: Speed at no time to exceed ten 
miles per hour in business section or 18 miles per hour in other 
parts of the city. 

A vehicle, on the approach of fire apparatus, shall move out 
of its way or stop so as not to interfere with its passage. 

Drivers, to prevent accidents, must observe traffic, exer- 
cise caution and signal by out-stretched hand before slowing, 
stopping or backing. 

Drivers, when approaching or entering a curve or corner or 
junction or coming to the top of a hil, if view of roadway is ob- 
scured, shall sound signal horn effectively and go slowly. 

Drivers when crossing a sidewalk must go slowly and signa^ 
with horn to insure safety. 

• Drivers must watch for traffic officers' signal and heed 
trafRic signals and limit lines. Pedestrians will remain on 
sidewalk and wait until traffic is released by officer and^move 
with traffic only. 

One blast of traffic officer's whistle indicates that approach- 

36 



WHAT TO DO 

ing traffic must remain behind cross walk; two blasts indicate 
approach of fire apparatus or other danger. 

Vehicles must be equipped with lights and horns, but horns 
shall not be used except for necessary signalling. 

Vehicles shall not tow more than one other vehicle and no 
tow connection shall be more than sixteen^ feet in length. 

Motor vehicles left standing without driver in charge, shall be 
left in such condition as to permit its being pulled out of the 
way if necessary but it must have its motor stopped and ef- 
fectually secured against it being 'started, its emergency brake 
set and, if on a hill its front wheels turned in the direction of 
the curb. This shall not be construed to prohibit a car from 
being locked against theft. 

A motor vehicle shall not be driven by any one less than 
eighteen years of age. 

No vehicle shall be driven through a procession without per- 
mission of police officer and under his direction. 

Everything being equal, vehicles going in an easterly and 
westerly direction shall have the way over vehicles going in 
a northerly and southerly direction. 

No vehicle shall pass on the right side of a street car which 
has stopped to let off or take on passengers, but shall come to a 
halt and remain standing until street car proceeds, unless other 
wise directed by traffic officer. 

A vehicle passing or being passed by another shall not oc- 
cupy more than its share of the roadway. 

A vehicle overtaking another shall pass to the right. 

A vehicle overtaking another shall pass it to the left, but must 
not interfere^ with traffic from the opposite direction or pull 
over to the right before entirely clear of the overtaken vehicle. 
On overtaking a street car, pass to the right. 

A vehicle turning into a roadway, to the right, shall keep 
close to the right hand curb. A vehicle turning into a roadway 
from left shall pass around the central point of intersection 
of the two roadways except when directed otherwise by the 
traffic officer or when its turning radius will not permit it to 
do so without backing. 

A vehicle shall keep as near as possible to; the right hand 
curb. 

A vehicle meeting another shall pass to the right. 
A vehicle passing around an oval, circle or other form of 
centralized obstruction shall keep to the right. 

A vehicle shall stop within 18 inches of the right hand curb. 

A vehicle shall not stop on a cross walk nor within a roadway 
intersection except in an emergency. 

A vehicle shall neither rank nor park nor stand so as to pre- 

37 



WHAT TO DO 

vent the free passage of other vehicles in both directions at the 
same time nor with any part of it extending bej/ond limit lines 
nor within five feet of a fire hydrant, ten feet of a safety zone, 
main entrances to hotels or public buildings nor within one foot 
a mail box nor within sixty feet of the intersecting curb line. 

A vehicle shall not occupy a roadway so as to obstruct traffic 
nor shall it back to make a turn if doing so will obstruct traffic. 

A vehicle shall not follow another too closely for safety. 

A vehicle overtaking a street car stopped or stopping to take 
on or let off passengers shall' stop and not pass or approach 
nearer than eight feet in any direction. 

A vehicle in front of a street car shall upon signal immediately 
get off the track. 

No motor vehicle shall be driven within the hours of one-half 
an hour after sunset or one-half an hour before sunrise unless 
there be fastened to the front end thereof at last two white 
lights, clearly visible at a distance of three hundred feet and a 
lamp or lamps so fixed and lighted so as to threw a red light 
to the rear and a white light directly upon its registration num- 
ber. 

No part of the machinery of an automobile shall be permitted 
to run while such vehicle is, standing in any street, alley or 
roadway without an attendant capable of running the same. 

All automobiles must be provided with effective mufflers and 
the same shall be kept closed at all times. 

In case any vehicle injures any person, it shall be the duty 
of the person in charge to immediately stop and render assis- 
tance and if necessary obtain medical assistance for such injured 
person. 



38 



WHAT TO DO 



CHAPTER VI 



A STITCH IN TIME, SAVES NINE 

Although the manner in which a car is driven will 
importantly affect the service it will give for pleasure 
or for profit and go a long way toward determining how 
long it will run and what it will cost to run it, there is 
another factor of equal or greater importance, to which 
the car owner, who desires to run his car with least 
trouble and least expense for operation and upkeep, will 
pay earnest attention. 

The successful, economical and trouble-free opera- 
tion of an automobile requires more than a careful hand 
at the steering wheel or a cautious foot at the brake. 
Care on the road must Be supplemented by care at 
home. It is obvious that it is possible to lose most of 
the fruits of careful driving through improper care or 
lack of care of the car. 

It is, of course, a truism to say that in an automobile, 
as in any other machine, vibration and friction occa- 
sioned by even ordinary wear and tear will necessitate 
frequent adjustments, occasional repairs and some- 
times even replacements. If these are attended to 
when the need arises, well and good; the owner will 
have taken his "stitch in time." Otherwise — "time 
cures all things," except necessary adjustments and re- 
pairs to an automobile. The longer they are postponed, 
the worse they get. and if the owner fails to take his 

39 



WHAT TO DO 

"stitch in time" he can hardly blame the car manufac- 
turer if, eventually, he has to pay a steep price for the 
proverbial "nine" stitches which his delay has neces- 
sitated. 

"But," says some car owner, "How'm I going to know 
when something oughta be done?" Unfortunately, with 
all the "built-in" features with which manufacturers 
have improved their cars, they haven't yet fixed them 
so that they will ring a bell, blow a whistle or flash a 
red light when attention to some particular part is 
needed. Of course every rattle, squeak or other ab- 
normal noise is such a warning, but the car owner 
should not wait for his car to register such a complaint. 
Furthermore, certain parts are "voiceless" and do not 
complain audibly, however much they may be neglected. 

To keep an automobile running satisfactorily, the 
most effective thing a car owner can do is to follow the 
advice given in most of the instruction books published 
by the car manufacturers, namely, to go over it thor- 
oughly, at regular intervals, making a thorough and 
systematic inspection which will enable him to find and 
attend to any point where attention may be needed. 

But this does not mean that the car will greatly 
benefit from aimless tinkering. Indeed much harm can 
be done. The car owner must have a working knowl- 
edge of his car. He must know what parts are likely 
to need attention, what he can or should do to it and 
what parts he should leave alone. This he can learn 
from the instruction book published by the manufac- 
turer of his car. 

And, since some parts require more attention than 
others, he should lay out on a regular schedule what 

40 



WHAT TO DO 

things should be done every day, what should be done 
at weekly intervals and what can be safely left to a 
once-a-month inspection. 

These inspections, particularly if they are made at 
regular and frequent intervals, will not always reveal 
the need of any adjustments but there is one thing that 
can be and should be attended to on every tour of in- 
spection and that is LUBRICATION. 

To keep himself from overlooking any part which 
should be inspected or lubricated, the car owner will 
find it of great value to prepare and put up on his 
garage wall, a chart indicating what should be in- 
spected and lubricated every day, what should be looked 
after every week and what must be attended to once 
a month or at longer intervals. In making up such a 
chart the car owner should be guided by the instruction 
book that came with his car. If the lubrication instruc- 
tions in the book are calculated on a mileage basis, he 
can figure out from his average daily mileage the equiv- 
alent in days and can arrange the chart on a time 
rather than on a mileage basis, allowing, of course, for 
proper variation if the car should be laid up or is 
used but seldom. 

The accompanying charts might be used except in 
such particulars, if any, as are at variance with the in- 
struction.s given by the car manufacturer in his instruc- 
tion book. 

The car owner will understand that such work can 
not be done without accumulating at least some dirt 
and grease. But, for compensation, let him be assured 
that to keep down expense, to prolong the life of the car 
and to keep it running at tip-top efficiency, the value of 

41 



WHAT TO DO 

these periodical — ^precautionary — inspections can hard- 
ly be over estimated. 

Before tackhng the job, the car owner should out-fit 
himself with a pair of overalls, an old cap and a pair of 
gloves and since he will sometimes have to "get down 
and get under," it would be an excellent idea for him to 
build himself a "creeper." This can be made of two 
twelve-inch boards, six feet long, fastened side by side 
and mounted on casters or cast-off roller skates. Thus 
equipped, he will be able to work to good advantage and 
without getting much dirtier than he would in an af- 
ternoon of golf or fishing. 

Suggested Inspection Charts 

DO THIS EVERY DAY 

On Bringing Car In At Night : 

(a) Clean, if muddy or very dusty. 

(b) While engine is still warm, wipe off all accumu- 
lated dirt and grease. 

(c) Inspect tires for cuts in tread or side wall, fill- 
ing any found with "tire putty," "Cure Cut" or the like, 
following directions on package. 

(d) Endeavor to locate and remedy any unusual 
operating noises or troubles which may have developed 
during the day. 

Before Taking Car Out In Morning : 

(a) Fill radiator with clean water. 

(b) Inspect oil supply, replenishing to proper level 
if supply is kept at home. 

(c) Inspect gasoline supply. If tank is replenished 

42 



WHAT TO DO 

from can and funnel is used, see that it is free from 
water and oil. 

(d) Observe on garage floor for evidences of oil, 
gasoline or water leaks. 

(e) Inspect springs for loose clips, shifted or broken 
leaves, etc. 

(f ) See that hub caps are tight and tools removed 
from running board. 

After Starting Out in Morning: 

(a) Test brakes and steering mechanism and see 
that both are operating properly. 

(b) See if oil pressure guage indicates circulation of 
oil. See if ammeter indicates battery is charging. 

DO THIS EVERY WEEK 
t Or Every 500 Miles 

(In addition to points mentioned for daily attention) 

1. Thoroughly clean entire car. 

2. Drain radiator and re-fill with clean water. 

3. Inspect lamp wiring and connections. If neces- 
sary, remove and polish lens, light bulbs and reflectors, 

4. *Inspect front spring bolts and lubricate as pro- 
vided. 

5. Inspect steering apparatus (steering knuckle 
bolts, steering gear drag link, connecting or tie rod 
bolts, steering arm drag link, etc.,) and lubricate as 
provided, not forgetting steering wheel oil hole. 

6. Lift hood and inspect fan belt tension and bear- 

Jlf car is brand new, the oil should be drained from the crank 
case at the end of the first five hundred miles, the case washed 
out with kerosene and new oil supplied. 

*If grease cups, give one turn and re-fill if necessary; if oil 
cups, see that they are full; if oil hole, inject oil with oil can; if 
open bearing or connection, apply oil or grease as specified by 
manufacturer. 

43 



WHAT TO DO 

ings and lubricate as provided- Clean fan belt if greasy. 

7. Inspect operation of oil and water pumps for 
leaks. Lubricate water pump shaft as provided. 

8. Inspect distributor shaft and lubricate as pro- 
vided. 

9. Inspect spark plugs, cleaning if foul. 

10. Inspect wiring for broken insulation, clean off 
all grease and dirt ; see that connections are tight. 

11. Inspect all engine bolts, making sure that en- 
gine is tight on frame. 

12. Inspect clutch mechanism (pedal bearings, 
shaft connections, release bearings, etc.) lubricating 
as provided. 

13. Inspect hand and foot brake shaft and rod con- 
nections and brake equalizers, lubricating as provided. 

14. Inspect rear spring bolts and seats, lubricating 
as provided. 

15. Run engine until it is warm, open pet cocks and 
put in tablespoonful of kerosene in each cylinder and 
let stand over night to loosen up carbon. 

In looking over car, see that all bolts are tight, and 
all cotter pins in place. 

DO THIS SEMI-MONTHLY 
Or Every 1000 Miles 

In addition to points mentioned for daily and weekly 

attention 

1. Tighten nuts on fender supports. 

2. Drain crank case, clean with kerosene and refill 
with new oil. 

3. Have battery inspected and see that cells are 
filled with distilled water to proper height. See that 

44 



WHAT TO DO 

terminals are tight and covered with thin coating of 
vaseline or cup grease to prevent corrosion. See that 
battery box container is secure. 

4. Inspect front wheels for alignment aijd excessive 
play. 

5. Inspect steering gear for excessive play. 

6. Inspect starter-generator bearings and lubricate 
as provided. 

7. Clean magneto externally and give two or three 
drops of good Kght oil — never cylinder oil. Otherwise, 
leave magneto alone. 

DO THIS MONTHLY 
Or Every 2000 Miles 

In addition to points suggested for daily, weekly and 
semi-monthly attention. 

1. Remove front wheels, clean and fill all bearings 
with lubricant specified by manufacturer. 

2. Steering gear case, lubricate as specified by man- 
ufacturer. 

3. Drain or clean out old lubricant in transmission 
gear case and re-fill as specified by manufacturer. 

4. Inspect distributor contacts, wipe clean and ap- 
ply thin coat of vaseline. 

5. Inspect universal joints, lubricate as specified by 
manufacturer. 

6. Inspect pinion bearings and lubricate as provided. 

7. Remove rear wheels, clean bearings and lubricate 
as specified by manufacturer. 

8. If rear axle runs in oil, drain and re-fill with 
amount and grade of oil specified by manufacturer. 

9. Inspect brakes, cleaning bands with stiff brush 

45 



WHAT TO DO 

and gasoline, lubricating with a few drops of light oil. 
If bands are charred or worn, replace. See that hinges, 
cams, toggles and other brake bearings are well lubri- 
cated . 

10. With switch off, crank engine by hand and test 
compression. If resistance is not "springy," test cylin- 
ders singly to find leak. 

11. Drain and wash out radiator with soda solution, 
refilling with clear water. 



It will not be surprising if some car owner should 
feel that to carry out such a program of inspection, 
lubrication and general care, would take up so much 
time that none would be left for driving. This really 
is not the case. Divided as it is, the work will not take 
up a great amount of time nor will it entail much labor 
or require mechanical skill or knack beyond that pos- 
sessed by the average driver. 

And if he makes up similar charts for his use or 
follows any systematic and thorough schedules of in- 
spection, adjustment and lubrication, he will find ample 
compensation in freedom from troubles (including re- 
pair bills) and in a sweetly running car that will run 
on and on and still retain a good re-sale value after a 
period of service that will have sent other cars, less 
carefully cared for, to the junk-yard — the limbo of all 
neglected cars. 



46 



WHAT TO DO 



CHAPTER VII 

TREATISE ON AUTOMOBILE 
LUBRICATION 

By Fred J. Bedford, S. A, E., Magnolia Petroleum Co. 
Lubricating System Design and Its Importance 

1. The lubricating systems designed for the lubri- 
cation of automobiles must be more enduring, more 
positive acting, the least complicated,the least diffi- 
cult to regulate, the most accessible for the applica- 
tion of lubricants, the most economical and more 
efficient than those designed for any other class of 
machinery ever manufactured. 

2. The reason for this is simple, the automobile is 
operated by a far greater number of all classes of 
people than any other single piece of machinery. 

3. The success of the automobile industry, not 
only demands, but the great majority of automobile 
operators demand it, because they do not have a suffi- 
cient knowledge of the essentials of lubrication and 
lubricating system for the safe and economical 
operation of automobiles. 

Credit Due Manufacturers 

4. This modern method of transportation has been 
in general use, in practically all parts of the United 
States, for the past ten or eleven years and so 
cleverly, in the majority of instances, have the manu- 
facturers overcome the problems of lubrication that 

47 



WHAT TO DO 

the layman does not have a true conception of the 
importance of the lubricating- requirements for eco- 
nomical and efficient operation. 

Automobile Valuable and Useful Education Necessary 

5. Automobiles are here to stay, they are just as 
much a part of our life as the telephone and tele- 
graph, and it behooves every operator to better edu- 
cate himself to the care and upkeep of this valuable, 
useful property. 

6. There are those who have benefited, after pay- 
ing the price of experience, but it is, in all probability, 
safe to say that the great army of automobile ope- 
rators have not yet reached the point where they 
realize the necessity of devoting time and study for 
the most economical operation, from every stand- 
point, of this wonderful piece of mechanism. 

7. During the period above mentioned thousands 
of lubricating experiments have been made with the 
automobile, in all classes of service, driven by all 
classes of people, under all conditions and subjected 
to examinations and investigations, for the purpose 
of checking and recording the cause or causes of any 
undesirable conditions or results. 

Unnecessary Expenditures Chargeable to Improper 
Lubricating Oil 

8. The best information available, indicates that 
it can be conservatively estimated, that more than 
seventy-five (75%) per cent of the difficulties ex- 
perienced, in the operation of the automobile (barring 
accidents, such as personal liability, property dam- 
age and collision, theft and fire, against which one 
can be insured for a nominal sum, and tire trouble), 

48 



WHAT TO DO 

is unnecessary and can be charged against faulty, 
improper and insufficient lubrication, directly or in- 
directly; resulting in burned or worn and cut out 
bearings, worn gears, excessive consumption of fuel, 
oil and grease and excessive repair bills for labor 
and material, which must be replaced at the seller's 
price. 

Unnecessary Expense Eliminated 

9. A continuation of this procedure is not only 
an inconvenient and expensive burden, but a gross 
waste of material and labor because it is unnecessary 
and can be eliminated to a negligible quantity by the 
use of a proper lubricant, properly applied. 

Proper Oil Necessary 

10. After the layman has realized that proper 
lubrication is a necessity to the successful operation 
of his automobile, the next problem that confronts 
him is, what kind of oil or grease should be used, 
and how and when it should be applied? 

Proper Lubricating Oil Defined 

11. Several years ago the writer was asked by one 
of his friends: "What is the proper lubricating oil 
for an automobile?" (at that time there was only one 
oil company that was marketing and recommending 
more than one oil for the lubrication of automobile 
motors). His answer was as follows: "The proper 
oil for the lubrication of an automobile engine is one 
of high lubricating efficiency, one that has a body 
and fluidity suitable for uniform feeding under vary- 
ing climatic conditions with the added qualification 

49 



WHAT TO DO 

of maintaining a good body or consistency, under 
the heated operating conditions, sufficient to form a 
film between the friction surfaces and seal the clear- 
ance space between the piston rings and cylinder 
walls, thus preventing the escape of gases during the 
period of compression and power strikes of the piston, 
without entering the combustion chamber." 

One Grade of Lubricating Oil Not Suitable for 
All Automobiles 

12. Of course the questioner was just as wise after 
having been informed as before the question was 
asked because nobody seemed to know at that time 
of a lubricating oil that had those qualifications, and 
while there are lubricating oils manufactured that 
will do just as prescribed in the preceding paragraph, 
in some automobile motors there is no oil manufac- 
tured that will do that in all automobile motors. 

13. There are some motors operating, very satis- 
factorily, for which no lubricating oil manufactured 
seems to furnish ideal lubrication, and tMs condi- 
tion will always remain to some extent, because it 
would be a practical impossibility to manufacture and 
market a grade of oil that would be ideal for each 
of the millions of different operating conditions. This 
variation of conditions may be ever so slight but 
sufficient to afi'ect perfect lubrication. 

A Grade for Each Condition 

14. Today all of the practical, scientific automo- 
tive engineers and practically all large oil companies 
realize the necessity of manufacturing and using dif- 
ferent grades of lubricating oil and grease for the 

50 



WHAT TO DO 

lubrication of the different classes of equipment and 
for the lubrication of the same equipment operating 
under different conditions. 

. We deduce, therefore, that satisfactory and eco- 
nomical operation of automobile equipment is largely- 
dependent on the selection of the PROPER GRADE OF 
LUBRICATING OIL AND GREASE for use in the 
lubricating system or systems designed for this pur- 
pose. 

Determination of Proper Grades Not 
Without Effort 

16. It has not been a very difficult matter to de- 
termine how and when to apply the different grades 
of lubricating oil and grease to the many different 
wearing surfaces of the parts that go to make up the 
automobile in order that oil and grease should be 
continually present, neither has it been difficult in 
most instances to determine the proper grades of 
grease for satisfactory lubrication where grease can 
be used, but to determine the proper grade of lubri- 
cating oil, for the lubrication of the motor, has been 
quite another problem. 

Poor Lubricating Oil Costly 

17. Realizing that poor lubricating oil is a costly 
investment, and in an effort to secure the best lubri- 
cating oil possible for the lubrication of all classes 
of machinery, owners and operators of industrial 
properties of all classes, for the past twenty years, 
have tried to find some method by which they would 
know a high grade oil for a certain purpose, in order 

51 



WHAT TO DO 

that they might be directed thereby in their pur- 
chases. 

Available Lubricating Oil Information 

18. Many of these industries have transformed 
their properties into automobile manufacturing estab- 
lishments, and, notwithstanding the fact, many 
mysterious failures have occurred from the use of 
lubricating oil with approved specifications, that 
would seem to disprove the value of lubricating oil 
determined in this manner. There are still many who 
cling to the belief that a knowledge of the physical 
specifications of lubricating oil is the best method of 
determining its value. 

19. The most available information has been given 
by analytical chemists, the data having been taken 
from their deliberations largely in the laboratory 
and consists of the physical chemical analysis of the 
characteristics and properties of lubricating oil. 

Analysis of Physical Specifications 

20. In order to reach a more definite conclusion 
as to the degree of reliability that can be placed upon 
the method of physical analysis (specifications) to 
determine the value of lubricating oil, let us analyze 
some of the facts concerning these properties. 

21. The physical characteristics and properties 
most commonly used are, flash point, viscosity at 100 
degrees F., gravity Beaume and cold test, and some- 
times carbon content. 

Flash Point 

22. The point at which the evaporation of lubri- 
cating oil begins is its flashing point. 

23. This evaporation does not begin to take place 

52 



WHAT TO DO 

until flashing temperatures are reached and the co- 
hesive and adhesive characteristics of the lubricating 
oil govern the quantity of oil that reaches this tem- 
perature and the combustion chamber, also its effi- 
ciency as a sealing agent at temperatures slightly 
lower than that point; therefore, a definite flashing 
point cannot be determined without a consideration 
of other properties (viz., cohesion and adhesion) 
which govern its subjection to flashing temperatures. 

Viscosity Consistency Fluidity or Cohesion 

24. The viscosity of an oil is its fluidity or con- 
sistency, taken usually at a temperature of 100 de- 
grees F. If the operating temperatures in a motor 
were alike on the side walls of the cylinders and 
pistons, and reciprocating parts so that the thickness 
of an oil could be measured, this would allow the 
manufacturers to prescribe the proper thickness of 
the film of oil after certain demonstrations and tests. 

25. Under these conditions a knowledge of this 
characteristic would be valuable but, inasmuch, as 
motor operating temperatures have a wide variation 
and the consistency of lubricating oil decreases as the 
temperature increases and increases as the tempera- 
ture decreases, calculations of what an oil possessing 
a certain degree of this characteristic will perform, 
become a physical impossibility. 

Cold Test 

26. The temperatures of the working parts of an 
automobile motor, operating under normal condi- 
tions, in the coldest winter day to the hottest S'lmmer 
day range from 80 degrees F. to 390 degrees F. ap- 

53 



WHAT TO DO 

proximately. The lubricating oil from the crank case 
of lubricating systems is subjected to all of these 
temperatures ranging between the temperature of the 
oil itself in the crank case or lubricating system along 
the side and up to the top of the piston and cylinder 
walls. 

27. There is only one exception to this condition 
and that is at the time of starting in cold weather. 

Oils of High or Low Cold Test Usually 
Not a Determining Factor 

28. When oils of high cold test are congealed in 
this kind of weather the only objection, that could be 
justly raised, is the slow circulation of oil through 
exposed oil pipes which compose a part of the lubri- 
cating system on the outside of the motor. 

29. When lubricating oils are used of high con- 
sistency, that is, those commonly known as extra 
heavy oils, care should be taken to see that the oil is 
circulating through these pipes within four or fiva 
minutes after starting. 

30. There is little liability, if any, even with the 
heaviest oils, for damage to occur to any of the bear- 
ings, pistons or cylinder walls because there is plenty 
of grease (if the oil is congealed) on them to operate 
the motor for several minutes without added supply, 
which is usually long before it is actually necessary, 
with the proper grade of lubricating oil manufac- 
tured from either Asphalt or ParafRne based crudes. 

31. An analysis shows the consistency of the lower 
cold test oils is much greater than the higher cold test 
oils at the point where the higher cold test oils con- 
geal, and the rate of flow of the oil, is dependent upon 

54 



WHAT TO DO 

its consistency and the pressure required to move 
either in circulating pipes would depend largely on 
the cohesive characteristic of the oil or grease. There- 
fore, it cannot be stated definitely just what cold test 
the oil should be for the automobile motor because 
the factor of consistency or viscosity, and the rela- 
tive pressure required to move it in circulating sys- 
tems, cannot be taken into consideration in the de- 
termination of its cold test. 

Gravity 

32. The specific gravity or gravity Beaume, as it 
is usually termed in lubricating oil specifications, has 
no lubricating value. It simply indicates its weight 
as compared with water and is used by chemists for 
that purpose. 

Carbon Test 

33. The carbon test is sometimes used and indi- 
cates the comparative carbon content of lubricating 
oil. There are several different methods of taking 
this characteristic and tests on the same oil vary 
from five-tenths (.5%) of one per cent to twenty 
(20%) per cent, but due to the fact that oils of the 
proper grade can usually be selected that will elimi- 
nate its presence in the combustion chamber, and the 
use of improper grades of lubricating oil of prac- 
tically the same character, result in large quantities 
of lubricating oil finding its way there, it would seem 
there is little value of the knowledge of this property 
in the selection of lubricating oil. 

Oils of Like Specifications Do Not 
Give Like Service 

34. In addition to the above handicaps in the con- 

55 



WHAT TO DO 

sideration of the value of lubricating oil from a 
knowledge of its specifications, we find from practical 
demonstrations that two or more oils of practically 
the same characteristics and specifications, manufac- 
tured from different crudes, will not perform the 
same service ; also, that oils manufactured under one 
process of refinement or treatment will not perform 
the same service as will oil manufactured under an- 
other process of refinement or treatment, even though 
they may be manufactured from the same crude. 

35. It is also true that oils of widely variable 
characteristics under certain conditions will perform 
practically the same service. 

Adhesion and Its Value 

36. Chemical analysis has, in the past, and is 
today, the balance wheel of trade on most commodi- 
ties. And the physical analysis of lubricating oil 
enumerated above is important and necessary in the 
process of manufacture, but for its practical perform- 
ance it cannot be justly considered of very great 
value. For instance, the property of adhesion, which is 
not susceptible to measurement through chemical 
analysis, is undoubtedly as important in all prob- 
ability, if not more so, than any single property or 
characteristic mentioned above. 

37. This property is not measured by the greatest 
or least degree of adhesion, but the right degree of 
adhesion. It is this characteristic that fills up the 
pores of the metal, making a smooth surface between 

56 



WHAT TO DO 

the moving parts, and offering the least resistance 
to their movement. 

Chemists Unable to Prescribe 

38. For and in consideration of the above state- 
ments of fact, it is quite clear that it would be an 
absolute impossibility for any chemist to prescribe 
specifications of an oil to perform a certain definite 
service from the knowledge gained from a detailed 
physical analysis only. 

Choice of Method 

39. We operators then must choose one of the two 
other avenues open, the one of taking the advice of 
those who know, or testing the oil in our own equip- 
ment under actual operating conditions, checking the 
results — first for its efficiency, and second for its con- 
sumption. Continue these tests until satisfaction is 
secured. It can readily be determined when the best 
results are obtained after testing with a few of the 
different grades of lubricating oil recommended for 
automobile lubrication. 

Mechanical Defects Not Cured with Oil 

40. Do not try to make up mechanical deficiencies 
with lubricating oil — it cannot be successfully done. 
Perhaps temporary relief can be secured but this is 
always done at the expense of operation. 

Lubricating Oil and Grease Guides 

41. Usually lubricating oil guides and instructions 
are given in the instruction books that come with 
every automobile; if these guides are followed prob- 
ably no difficulty will follow due to the application 

57 



WHAT TO DO 

of oil or grease. Usually a much longer period can 
elapse than prescribed without inconveniences, injury 
or damage to these parts, but these parts must have 
some oil or grease all of the time — every studious 
operator will admit this statement sooner or later. 

42. For ready reference we are giving our idea of 
how often inspections of lubricating systems should 
be made for automobiles, operating under normal 
conditions, with a proper grade of lubricating oil and 
grease. The following groups consist of parts that 
need inspection at like periods. 

Lubricating Inspections 

43. The parts needing the most frequent attention 
are named in Group No. 1 and so on in numerical 
order each successive group, up to and including 
No. 7, includes the names of the parts that will run 
a greater number of miles before inspection or atten- 
tion is needed than the group preceding it. 

44. Even though indicators show proper levels, 
lubricating oil and grease containers and receptacles 
should be INSPECTED and lubricants applied, if 
found necessary, as follows: 

Group No. 1 

Grease cups on wheels or parts that operate in pro- 
pulsion of automobile — and quantity of oil in lubricat- 
ing system. — Once every day. 

Group No. 2 

Front spring bolts. — Once every 250 to 400 miles. 

Group No. 3 

Steering knuckles, spindles, arms, tie rod bolts, 
etc., front and rear spring shackles and rear spring 

58 



WHAT TO DO 

bolts, fan bearings, universal joints, clutch yoke and 
shifting parts, speedometer, swivel joint. — Once 
every 350 to 400 miles. 

Group No. 4 

Motor oil systems, electric generators, motors and 
magnetos, spark and throttle control joints. — Once 
every 650 to 1,300 miles. 

Group No. 5 

Transmission, rear axle, gear sets and brake joints. 
— Once every 1,500 to 2,000 miles. 

Group No. 6 

Steering gear, grease packed wheel bearings, bat- 
tery terminals, speedometer chains. — Once every 
2,500 to 3,000 miles. 
Group No. 7 

Spring leaves and motor disassembled making 
necessary replacements and adjustments when re- 
assembled. — Once every 15,000 to 20,000. 

45. Referring to and in explanation of the groups 
just preceding, further comments relative thereto are 
made in paragraphs Nos. 46 to 65 inclusive. 

Ref. Group No. 1 

46. One should always know the quantity of oil 
there is in the lubricating oil system — a pet cock 
might work open — a bolt might come out of the crank 
case, or a crank case gasket could leak. It takes but 
a moment to look over the lubricating system for in- 
dications of this character and the satisfaction of 
knowing always just what condition it is in, is as- 
sured. 

Lubrication of Propelling Bearings 

47. The parts referred to in this group should 

59 



WHAT TO DO 

have daily attention because the operation of the part 
is continual and the lubricating supply compara- 
tively small. A reasonably thin grease should be used 




Cut No. 1 shows two universal joints — the one on the left aas 
run 1800 miles and is worn out because of insufficient lubrication 
— the one on the right has run 20000 miles. It has been prop- 
erly lubricated and is in perfect condition. Such universal 
joints with proper care and attention have been known to run 
twelve years at a cost of approximately fifteen or twenty min- 
utes labor and ten cents worth of grease per year. 

for bearings so lubricated in order that distribution 
will be secured and internal friction (a property of 
heavier grease) will be proportionately reduced. Dis- 





Cut No. 2 shows two universal joint bushings — the one on the 
right has been properly lubricated and has run 24,000 miles and 
is in perfect condition. The one on the left has been improperly 
lubricated and has a hole worn through, practically across the 
entire face has run 'only 18000 miles. 



60 



WHAT TO DO 

tributors, distributor shafts, chains, etc., are included 
in this group. 

Ref. Group No. 2 

Front Spring Bolts Important 

48. Only the front spring bolts are included in 
this group because they should not only have frequent 
care to insure good riding qualities of the car, but it 




Cut No. 3 shows two front spring bolts both taken from 
equipment after having completed 18000 miles of service. The 
one oni the right has become excessively dry and badly worn, 
as indicated by the arrows. The one on the left is still in per- 
fect condition. Note the hole, that is open on the bolt on the 
left, it is closed in the bolt on the right, which is due tot im- 
proper and insufficient lubrication. 

is necessary to keep the nuts and bolts of all parts of 
the car from working loose, due to the additional 
shock transmitted to these parts when front spring 
bolts get dry and dirty — these two bolts have to bear 
a greater strain from the combined weight of the 
ear and road vibration than any other part — they 

61 



WHAT TO DO 

are subjected to water, dirt, grit and dust and cup 
grease should be used frequently and in small 
quantities to keep them clean and well lubricated. 

Ref. Group No. 3 
Lubrication, Small Parts 

49. This group covers the majority of the small 
parts, bolts and bearings on the car and should be in- 
spected as outlined even though it takes a small quanti- 
ty of grease, remember that it takes a little pressure at 
least and sometimes considerable pressure to put 
grease between the bearing surfaces. Where grease 
cups are used — it may be found necessary to relieve 
this weight with a jack or lever unless some very 
strong form of grease gun and connections are in- 
stalled or available for use. 

Ref. Group No. 4 

Time or Mileage Not a Safe Guide 

50. The lubricating oil in the system should be 
examined frequently; there can be no set number of 
miles that the car should run or any set length of 
time, stated before the lubricating oil should be 
drained from the lubricating system, but the oil 
should be inspected frequently. If the automobile 
has been subjected to muddy or dirty roads it will be 
found that the lubricating oil will need to be replaced 
very much more frequently than if operating on clean 
paved streets, because where dirt and dust are 
present a proportionate amount will be introduced 
through the breather tubes and other openings com- 
mon to the lubricating system. 

When to Change Lubricating Oil 

51. When it is desired to know whether the oil in 

62 



WHAT TO DO 

the lubricating system should be changed, the oil 
itself must be examined, if it is found that the oil is 
heavy and gritty, it should be drained out, because 
to continue to use the oil contaminated in this manner 
will cause excessive friction and wear (don't be afraid 
to get your fingers in it, the way it feels to your 
fingers is the way it acts on the moving parts of your 
motor). 




Cut No. 4 shows two pistons. The one on the left shows 
the piston pin and the piston rings to be well lubricated and 
in perfect condition. Note where the piston on the right is 
scored and piston pin worn — the top of tht piston and piston 
rings are badly carboned, due to improper and insufficient 
lubrication. These pistons were taken from identical motors 
and run approximately 18,000 miles each. Properly lubricated 
automobile pistons should have a glaze which ranges in color 
from a grayish to a brownish cast somewhat lighter than the 
cylinder walls. Both should be very smooth and greasy, and 
objects should show a clear cut reflection on their surface. 



52, If the oil is thin and feels watery it is con- 
taminated with what is known as naphtha content. 
This condition (quite likely to exist in cold and winter 
weather) is due to incomplete combustion in the com- 
bustion chamber; the fuel, or the part of it so left, 
works its way down into the crank case and into 
the lubricating system. Oil contaminated in this 

63 



WHAT TO DO 

manner should be removed and replaced with fresh 
oil. 




Cut No. 5 shows the bottom halves of main bearings of iden- 
tical motors. The one on the right has been properly lubricated, 
has run 60,000 miles and still in service. Note the bearing sur- 
face is uniform over its entire face. This bearing is .012 of an 
inch thinner than when new. The one on the left has been des- 
troyed because of insufficient lubrication after having run 
50,000 miles. Well lubricated bearings made from good babitt 
metal should have a smooth, greasy, light grayish surface. 

Cleaning Out Lubricating System 

53. Do not wash crank case with kerosene oil 
unless the bottom of the crank case is removed, or all 
of the kerosene oil can be blown out with air (except 
the crank case be designed so that the kerosene oil 
will all drain out) the majority of crank cases have 
ribs in the block casting which form pockets as well 
as dipper pans which fill with kerosene oil used in 
this manner and lubricating oil installed in the crank 
case, after a procedure of this character, is contami- 
nated before it is ever used and has very little lubri- 
cating value. 

54. If the lubricating system appears to be very 
dirty, and it cannot be cleaned without leaving kero- 
sene oil in the system, as referred to, it will be better 
to just drain the old lubricating oil out of the system 

64 



WHAT TO DO 

and replace with fresh oil until such time as it can 
be properly cleaned, because there will be less 
liability for injury or damage to the motor from the 
dirt left in the system than there would be from the 
kerosene oil left in the dipper pans and other parts 
of the system that would mix with the fresh lubricat- 
ing oil and impair its value. 

Filtered Oil Unsuitable for Use Again 

55. Do not attempt to strain, clean or filter the oil 
drained from your crank case for use in your motor 
again. There may be some systems where this can be 
reasonably well accomplished but the majority of 
automobile operators certainly are not in possession 
of these filtering or cleaning systems. If the oil is 
reasonably well cleaned or settled it may be used for 
oiling throttle and spark control joints and bearings, 
also other outside bolts or bearings that are subjected 
to rain, mud, dirt and dust. 




i^ 



Cut No. 6 shows connecting- rod bearings from identical 
motors. The one on the right having- been properly lubri- 
cated. The one on the left improperly lubricated. The bear- 
ing on the left has run 50,000 miles and the bearing- on the 
right has run approximately 100,000 miles without repair and 
still in service and is .020 of an inch thinner now than when new. 



65 



WHAT TO DO 

Oil Level and Circulating Important 

56. After the crank case has been drained and 
fresh oil installed, see that the oil is at the proper 
level and if the lubricating system is of the circu- 
lating type, be certain that the lubricating oil in- 
stalled is circulating in the lubricating oil system, 
which is indicated by the lubricating oil indicators. 

57. Oil pumps that are reasonably close to the oil 
sump or suction level will prime and the oil will cir- 
culate immediately, but the oil pumps that are 
farther removed from this level will possibly need to 
be primed with lubricating oil by removing the cap 
from the pump and filling it, or putting the oil 
through the priming cock (as may be found neces- 
sary) before the oil will circulate. 

Indications of Proper Lubrication 

58. The proper lubrication of the motor from ex- 
ternal sources is indicated when your motor is operat- 
ing quietly and efficiently and when the lubricating 
oil consumption is not excessive. There can be no 
accurately stated amount of lubricating oil that any 
automobile will use, in any given time, unless it is 
doing identically the same work all of the time, but 
the quantity of the proper grade of lubricating oil 
consumed, is so small that it can be quite safely 
stated, in a medium weight automobile, should be 
somewhere between one gallon and one and three- 
fourths gallons of lubricating oil for every thousand 
miles traveled. 

Geneerators, Motors! and Magnetos 

59. Two or three drops of oil will be sufficient for 
the electric motor, generator and magneto bearings 

66 



WHAT TO DO 

at one time. Too much oil is detrimental to the clean- 
liness of this equipment for its satisfactory operation. 

60. Most electric generators and motors have a 
small, wick feeding, grease cup attached to the bot- 
tom of the bearing, this should be filled with a very- 
light grease or pure vaseline, at least inspected, every 
six months. 

Ref . Group No. 5 

Lubrication Transmission and Differential 

61. The parts named in this group should be in- 
spected as frequently as stated because of their im- 
portance in the operation of the car. 

62. Oil tight transmission cases, differential and 




The transmission gear shown in the left of this cut has had 
the teeth worn away because of improper lubrication of the 
shaft and bearing, which causes the teeth to be out of line 
and difficult to mesh; it has run 17,500 miles. The one on the 
right has been properly lubricated, still in service, and is practi- 
cally as good as new after having run 25,000 miles. 

axle housings with good bearings and good felt oil 
retaining washers ■ will run from ten thousand 
(10,000) to fifteen thousand (15,000) miles on one 
and one-half (11/2) to two (2) gallons of the proper 

67 



WHAT TO DO 

grade of transmission oil properly applied — they 
should be drained, cleaned and refilled with fresh oil 
once a year, 

Ref. Group No. 6 

Steering Gear, Speedometer Chain 

63. A thin grease is suitable for the steering worm 
gear, retainer, thrust and wheel bearings, also the 
battery terminals should be greased to keep them 
free from corrosion. The speedometer chain should 
be inspected at the intervals stipulated and greased, 
if found necessary. To do this the chain must be dis- 




Cut No. 8 shows speedometer chain links. Those on the left 
have been improperly lubricated and the wear on both the out- 
side and inside can be plainly seen. Those on the right have 
been properly lubricated and no wear has taken place. Both 
have been in operation on speedometers recording 10,000 miles. 




illiiliV 



Cut No. 9 shows a comparison between a properly and im- 
properly lubricated Timken bearing. They have both run 8,000 
miles. These bearings should last the life of the car, and the 
one on the left has had to be replaced because of insufficient 
lubrication. These bearings are case hardened and should have 
bright greasy surface when properly lubricated. 

68 



WHAT TO DO 

connected, removed from the case and the grease 
applied to the chain, then the chain replaced and re- 
connected. 

Ref. Group No. 7 

Comfort and Convenience Available 

64. The riding qualities of the car depend upon the 
springs, the condition of them and the spring bear- 
ings. 




Cut No. 10 — Illustrating effect of poor lubrication of spring 
bushings. Each of the^ bushings shown have run 7,000 miles. 
The excessive wear on the poorly lubricated bushings (to the 
right) is plainly seen, 

65. To be properly lubricated the leaves should be 
separated and grease placed between them when 
necessary. 

66. If this cannot be done, the tops, sides and bot- 
toms can be painted with a light lubricating oil. This 
is only a temporary substitute and should be wiped 
off clean after it has penetrated between the leaves 



69 



WHAT TO DO 

as much as it will before draining off, which will 
prevent the accumulation of dust and dirt. 




Cut No. 11 — Both sets of the spring shackle bolts illustrated 
have run 7,000 miles. The bolts on the right were poorly lubri- 
cated. Observe resulting wear. 

Poor Lubricating Oil Liability 

67. Never use a poor or improper grade of lubri- 
cating oil or grease for the lubrication of your auto- 
mobile — except — in case of absolute necessity. Of 
course a poor oil is better than none and if it must 
be used, watch it closely because in all probability 
the poor oil will soon be gone and very likely injured 
or damaged parts, due to both improper and insuffi- 
cient lubrication, will result. 

Proper Lubricating Oil Necessary 

68. A motor is more efficiently lubricated with a 
light bodied oil of the proper grade, that will furnish 
lubrication and a seal between the piston and cylinder 
wall surfaces and lubrication to their reciprocating 
parts, than with too heavy an oil ; because rapid dis- 
tribution is not characteristic of the heavier oils and 

70 



WHAT TO DO 

dry spots, for this reason, create excessive friction 
and wear. 

69. All working surfaces of the cylinder walls, 
piston and reciprocating parts must receive equal and 
sufficient (not too much) lubricating oil, in order to 
reduce internal and external friction to the minimum. 

70. If your motor is overheating; if it will not 
pull its rated load ; if there is excessive vibration ; if 
the fuel and lubricating oil consumption is high; if 
the motor is sluggish or slow, it needs something and 
that something is, in all probability, not the fault of 
the design or manufacture of the machine, but the 
fault of the opera"^or — either because of the lack of 
knowledge of how it should be operated, or because 
of attaching too little importance or attention to the 
little things that are vital. 

Seventy-five Per Cent of Difficulties Avoidable 

71. Remember that statistics indicate that more 
than seventy-five (75%) per cent of the difficulties 
and expense incident thereto are avoidable and 
chargeable, either directly or indirectly, to improper 
and insufficient lubrication. It would seem then, that 
these avoid.able difficulties, at their present ratio of 
more than three to one, are largely due to the use of 
improper lubricating oil, which represents the lack 
of knowledge of little things that are vital, referred 
to in paragraphs numbers eight (8) and seventy (70). 

Efficiency and How to Determine 

72. In short, if efficient, economical and satisfac- 

71 



W HAT TO DO 

tory results are to be secured in the operation and 
maintenance of the automobile, the lubricating oil 
and grease used must be right. 

73. The true test of lubricating oil then must be a 
practical demonstration under operating conditions and 
comparative results closely checked for efficiency and 
economy of operation, including consumption of the 
lubricating oil. These are the facts upon which its cost 
can be justly computed. 

74. In the final analysis then only, is it t^afe to 
determine, the proper grades of lubricating oil that 
should be used, through practical demonstrations. 
This is important and every owner or operator should 
at least make some effort to determine the lubricat- 
ing oil most suitable for the individual automobile 
in some such manner as described in paragraph 
seventy-three (73), the results of which are shown 
in the accompanying photographs. 

Operators Should Be Educated To the Necessity 
of Practical Demonstrations 

75. The preceding paragraph is not intended to 
convey the idea that a different grade of lubricating 
oil is required for the satisfactory lubrication of 
every automobile, because there are thousands upon ^ 
thousands of automobiles of the same and different 
manufacture that are operating, almost identically, 
under the same conditions — we mean to state that 
the demonstrations should be made to determine 
which of the grades of oil manufactured is the most 
suitable for the individual automobile — it must be 

72 



WHAT TO DO 

"a grade for each condition." Not a grade for a par- 
ticular class of motor operating under all conditions. 

76. For instance: Two identical motors, one 
operating an automobile and the other operating a 
tractor, will require two different grades of lubricat- 
ing oil for their satisfactory operation, because their 
operating temperatures materially differ, which 
affects the action of the lubricating oil — as explained 
in paragraphs Nos. twenty-four (24), twenty-five 
(25) and twenty-six (26). 

77. The necessity of making practical demonstra- 
tions or tests for the purpose of determining which 
of the many grades of reputable lubricating oils and 
greases on the market more particularly lubricating 
oil, are the most suitable for the conditions under 
which any particular automobile, or set of auto- 
mobiles, may be operated, should be emphasized by 
engineers, manufacturers and others who have made 
the science of lubrication a study, and in this manner 
their efforts will be rewarded in saving vast sums of 
money paid for unnecessary expense by those who 
believe lubricating oil a necessary evil and buy just 
any kind of oil first one place then another, creating 
all kinds of oil mixtures, considering this substitute 
for good lubricating oil satisfactory while the auto- 
mobile runs reasonably well and in many instances if 
it can be used at all. 

78. After the grade of lubricating oil indicated 
most suitable, judged by its performance and serv- 
ice rendered, has been chosen, do not deviate from it, 
except to run further demonstrations, as improve- 
ments are made in the manufacture of lubricating 

73 



WHAT TO DO 

oils, for the purpose of bettering conditions, if 
possible. 

Proper Lubrication Applies To All Classes 
of Equipment 

79. If for any reason the grade of oil found most 
suitable cannot be obtained regularly, it should be 
secured in quantities and kept accessible. 

(Automobiles using the smallest quantities of lubri- 
cating oil, properly cared for by draining contami- 
nated oil from the lubricating system, will consume 
from fifteen (15) to thirty (30) gallons each year. 
Lubricating oil, in the quantities named, can usually 
be purchased at a much less figure than in small 
quantities — for this reason, the outlay at one time 
can neither be considered excessive or expensive.) 

80. It does not seem reasonable that there should 
be any exception to this rule — from the owner of the 
lowest priced car, who individually operates it, to the 
owner enjoying the last word in modern automobile 
elegance, comfort and convenience (a veritable palace 
on wheels), relying entirely on a chauffeur to operate 
and maintain it — all go to make up the millions ex- 
pended daily throughout the United States for un- 
necessary expenditures — for time, labor, material, fuel 
and excessive lubricating oil, not to say anything of 
the exasperation, personal injury, mental and 
physical indisposition and incapacity to which the 
operator is subjected, and can rightfully be charged 
in the column head'ed — faulty, improper and insuffi- 
cient automobile lubrication — this can be entirely 
eliminated by the careful application of the foregoing 
conclusions indicating How, When and What To Do. 

74 



WHAT TO DO 



CHAPTER VIII 

CARE OF THE ENGINE 

It is almost as important for the engine to be clean 
externally as for it to be clean internally. Accumu- 
lated dirt, caked with grease, on an engine is a long, 
long step toward corroded parts, rotted insulation of 
wiring and other contingent evils. A motor, like a 
man, will work all the better for an occasional 
cleaning. 

If the engine is wiped off, every day, dirt will not 
accumulate and the engine can be kept clean. If 
cleaning is delayed for long intervals, the dirt will 
become caked and gummy. An engine should be gone 
over at least once a month and it and the engine com- 
partment thoroughly cleaned. For this purpose a 
stiff brush dipped in kerosene can be used to loosen 
and remove all dirt and gummy grease. Afterward 
it should be wiped off with cloth moistened in kero- 
sene. This can be done with gasoline but kerosene is 
better inasmuch as gasoline leaves a very dry surface, 
more likely to rust than when kerosene is used. 

The manifold should be examined for leaks which 
may exist around the joints, connections or in the 
surface of the manifold itself, if the manifold is a 
casting and not made of brass or sopper tubing. 
These leaks may be discovered by squirting gasoline 
on the points under observation while the engine is 
running. If the engine picks up you may be sure 
there is a leak and that part of the gasoline has been 

75 



WHAT TO DO 

sucked in through it, thus enriching the mixture. If 
the leaks occur in the joints or connections, tighten 
up the joints, if possible. Perhaps new gaskets will 
be necessary. If the manifold leaks through pores in 
the casting, they may be stopped by painting the man- 
ifold with a good grade of aluminum paint. Probably 
two coats will be necessary and the painting should be 
done while the manifold is hot and the metal conse- 
quently expanded. 

Brass, copper and nickeled parts should be cleaned 
and kept clean with a good cleaning compound of 
which there are many on the market. Polished iron 
parts can be cleaned with gasoline and can be kept 
from rusting by wiping them afterward and from 
time to time with thin oil. 

Some car owners paint or enamel the entire ex- 
terior surface of their engine. For this purpose an 
aluminum paint only should be used. Any other 
paint or an enamel prevents or retards heat radiation. 

It is good practice to look, every now and then, for 
compression leaks which are the frequent cause of 
sluggishness or seeming lack of power. 

Compression leaks may be past any or even several 
of the various cylinder joints or openings such as the 
cylinder head gaskets, valve caps or seats, spark 
plugs, priming cocks, etc., or they may be due to 
worn, scored or cracked cylinders, cracked pistons or 
the piston rings may be gummed, broken or even 
turned so that their cuts line up. 

To test for compression leaks, crank the engine by 
hand, with the ignition off. Hold the crank up against 
the pressure ; if there seems little resistance or if re- 
sistance becomes decidedly weaker at once, it may be 

76 



WHAT TO DO 

taken as evidence of a leak in one or more of the 
cylinders. 

Cylinders can be tested separately by opening the 
pet cocks on all cylinders except the one to be tested 
and cranking the engine by hand as above. 

If the leak is in one of the joints or openings, a hiss- 
ing sound may be heard. Such leaks can be surely de- 
tected by pouring a little oil around the joints and 
openings in turn and watching for bubbles which will 
be caused by the escaping gas. Such leaks can be 
stopped by tightening the leaking joint though some- 
times a new gasket or washer may be required. 

If no leaking joints or openings are found or if the 
compression is still poor after tightening any that are 
found, the trouble may be from a cracked cylinder. 
Such a condition will sometimes be detected by the 
presence of water in a cylinder after the car has been 
standing idle for some time. A cracked cylinder can 
be detected by running engine until hot, filling the 
radiator to overflowing, turning the engine over by 
hand, testing each cylinder as indicated above. If 
any cylinder is cracked bubbles will appear at the 
open radiator top. 

If the cylinders are intact, the leak may be due to 
the valves on which carbon may have accumulated 
and which, in consequence, may need grinding. This 
can be done by the car owner ; most of the instruction 
books tell how valves can be ground ; but it is a some- 
what tedious job and while it does not require an ex- 
pert to do it, considerable care is necessary and the 
average car owner will prefer to leave it to a 
mechanic. 

If the leak is not located at any other point, it is 

77 



WHAT TO DO 

most likely between the piston and the cylinder walls 
and may be due to worn or scored cylinders, in which 
case reboring- will be necessary, or to worn or other- 
wise defective piston rings, which may have to be re- 
placed with new. 

Another reason for lack of power may be the ac- 
cumulation of carbon within the cylinder where its 
presence will be indicated by knocking, caused by pre- 
ignition. 

Carbon accumulations may be caused by improper 
carburetor adjustment (producing too rich a mix- 
ture) by leakage of oil into the cylinder (due to badly 
fitting piston rings or scored cylinder walls) by filling 
the crank case too full and from failure to drain and 
renew the oil at proper intervals. However, perhaps 
the most frequent cause of carbon is the use of oil of 
poor quality or of the wrong quality for the engine. 

The chances for the formation of carbon can be 
minimized by care but once a week, small deposits 
which may have accumulated, should be loosened and 
removed by removing the spark plugs and pouring 
about two tablespoonfuls of kerosene into each 
cylinder. This should be done after the car is brought 
in for the night and while the engine is still warm. 
After the kerosene is put in, the spark plugs should 
be put back and the engine cranked several times by 
hand with the ignition off, in order to carry the kero- 
sene all over the cylinders. Next morning the car 
should be started out of doors as it will throw off a 
very heavy black smoke. 

If the removal of carbon has been neglected for 
some time more thorough methods are necessary. 

78 



WHAT TO DO 

One car owner reports great success through use of a 
mixture of 90 per cent kerosene and 10 per cent wood 
alcohol, a pint of which he pours through the air in- 
take of the carburetor while the engine is running 
with retarded spark. This is poured in as rapidly 
as the engine will take it without stalling. After- 
wards he lets the car stand idle over night- 

If carbon accumulations are heavy and of long 
standing, kerosene, or the mixture above referred to, 
may not remove them. Some of the liquid de-carbon- 
izers may be effective. If not, the car owner should 
not hesitate to have the deposit removed by scraping 
or burning without delay. 

The car owner must be careful when using kerosene 
or any of the liquid de-carbonizers, to see that the 
carbon goes all the way out; that is, that it does not 
stop in the muffler and exhaust pipe, clogging them 
up and creating a condition that is nearly as bad as 
the one remedied. On such occasions the muffler cut 
out should be opened in order to permit the carbon to 
escape into the open air. 

Even if this be done the car owner must not assume 
that this muffler and exhaust do not ever need clean- 
ing. The exhaust system is the chimney of the car 
and, like any other chimney, will soot up. When the 
system is thus clogged to any great degree the pass- 
age of the burned-out gases are impeded and create 
a "back-pressure" that appreciably affects the power 
of the engine. 

Exhaust manifold, pipe and muffler should be 
cleaned once or twice a season, at least. The first 
named can usually be cleaned by fastening to a wire 

79 



WHAT TO DO 

a wad of cloth, soaked with kerosene and dragging 
it back and forth through them. The muffler should 
be taken apart and cleaned with a stiff brush dipped 
in kerosene. 

A knock, which at first, may have been attributed 
to carbon or an improperly set spark lever, may some 
times be caused by a loose bearing. Such a condition 
results from wear which, nearly always, could have 
been prevented by proper lubrication. The car owner 
should see that every bearing surface is covered and 
kept covered with a wear-preventing film of oil and, 
in addition, in going over his engine he should always 
look for bearings which show signs of becoming loose. 
When any are found, they should be adjusted before 
the looseness gets worse and a condition arises which 
necessitates an extensive and perhaps expensive 
repair. 

He should look particularly after the main crank, 
the connecting rod and the wrist pin bearings, observ- 
ing now and then, after a run, if they appear hot. 
If so, he had better see after their lubrication. 



80 



WHAT TO DO 



CHAPTER IX 

WHAT EVERY CAR-OWNER OUGHT TO 
KNOW ABOUT HIS ENGINE 

By J. F. PAGE, Continental Motors Corporation. 

Experience has taught us that the motorist who 
gets the most in perfonnance at minimum expense is 
one who understands the major fundamentals of gaso- 
line engine construction and the essentials to econom- 
ical operation. 

The major fundamentals of gasoline engine construc- 
tion are simple. The basic principles of operation are 
the same in each engine. The essentials to economical 
maintenance and operation are easily understood. 

The basic construction of an engine is governed by 
the essential requirements of the service in which the 
vehicle must operate. This can be better understood by 
a comparison of engines built for different purposes. 

For example, passenger car engines are constructed 
more lightly than commercial truck engines. The elim- 
ination of unnecessary weight is a most important item 
in passenger car design, as lightness combined with 
balance contribute to comfort and performance. Weight 
distribution is another important item which affects 
directly the performance of the car. Then too, a pas- 
senger car engine is seldom called upon for its maxi- 
mum power at any speed and only a small percentage of 
the developed power is used under normal driving con- 

81 



WHAT TO DO 

ditions. In design, the weight and strength of the 
reciprocating parts are in proportion to the resistance 
offered the engine "Ivhen operated in average service, 
with a suitable factor of safety to withstand the heavy- 
duty often encountered by passenger cars when going 
up hills and through bad roads. A motor of this type 
accelerates quickly and is usually capable of higher 
speeds than developed by truck motors of the same 
bore and stroke. 

Truck engines, on the other hand, are called upon for 
a larger percentage of their developed power at prac- 
tically all times, therefore, the moving parts are more 
generous in size and the engine is otherwise designed 
to withstand greater strains. Performance, accelera- 
tion and flexibility are not the important requirements 
of a commercial vehicle. There must be ample power. 
Dependability and long life are essentials. The engine 
must operate at full speed with maximum efficiency 
day after day for long periods of time under a great 
many unfavorable weather and road conditions. This 
calls for many adequate cooling facilities, generous 
bearing surfaces, and more rugged construction 
throughout. 

Relation of Engine to Vehicle — It is not difficult for 
one to imagine what would take place if a lightly con- 
structed engine were used in a heavy duty truck. The 
engine could be operated satisfactorily perhaps for a 
brief period of time, but the steady resistance offered 
the engine would be more than it was designed to with- 
stand in continuous operation and as a consequence the 
engine would soon go to pieces or require frequent re- 
pairs and adjustments. 

Place a heavy duty truck engine in a passenger car 

82 



WHAT TO DO 

and the chances are that the engine would give an unu- 
sual amount of service. The car would have ample 
power and good hill climbing ability, but acceleration 
would be poor and sluggish performance would result at 
low speed. The engine could not be operated continu- 
ously and with success at the high speed required of a 
passenger car engine. Furthermore, the heavy con- 
struction of the truck engine would make it necessary 
to build the passenger car of proportionately stronger 
and heavier parts, thereby increasing the total weight 
of the car. 

The basic principles of operation are practically the 
same in all types of gasoline engines. It is obvious 
then that engine characteristics such as quietness in 
operation, ample power, reasonable speed ability to ac- 
celerate quickly, long life, and other qualifications 
which an experienced motorist appreciates can come 
only from refinements in design and construction — re- 
finements that exemplify the development of gasoline 
engines for automotive service. Successful engines do 
not embody novelties. They use only successful proven 
practices, are simple, accessible and contain no super- 
fluous parts. 

Power, speed, acceleration, economy, and weight are 
considered in the design. Each of these are essential 
to the ideal passenger car engine, and are correctly 
proportioned and balanced to a remotely fine degree in 
order to insure durability, that necessary adjunct to a 
successful engine. Either one of these particular es- 
sentials can be increased by sacrificing a proportion of 
another. 

A factor of safety is built into each engine, that is 
to say, the engine parts are designed to withstand 



83 



WHAT TO DO 

greater strains than they encounter when the engine is 
operated under a normal load. And too, the engine is 
capable of more power and speed than required in aver- 
age service. Excess power is a factor of safety to be 
used when needed. It should not be abused. 

The correct analysis of the metal in each part of an 
engine has been determined through intensive and ex- 
tensive research, and by experiments covering long 
periods of time. The material analysis of any given 
part depends upon the general design of the engine and 
upon the design of the particular part. Consequently, 
it can be said that the design and material of each indi- 
vidual part are co-ordinated in the engine. 

The material for each part of an engine plays an im- 
portant part. The physical properties must co-ordinate 
with the design of tlie engine. The exact size and de- 
sign of a part is only one requisite. The texture of the 
metal, hardness, strength, finish of contact surfaces, 
and amount of expansion, are among other factors that 
have a direct bearing upon the operating relationship 
of the parts. For this reason, it is vitally important 
that only parts made by the manufacturer of the en- 
gine should be used for replacement purposes. Then, 
only, can one be assured that the new parts have the 
qualifications essential to the design and construction 
of the engine. 

When all of the essentials to a successful gasoline en- 
gine are considered, it can be seen that high grade 
gasoline engines for automotive purposes are nothing 
more or less than highly co-ordinated units incorporat- 
ing minute refinements either in design or general con- 

84 



WHAT TO DO 

struction and that they represent development in the 
highest sense of the word. 

Essentials to Economical Operation — Proper lubrica- 
tion is one of the most important. The efficiency of an 
engine may be greatly impaired if operated without an 
adequate amount of oil. 

Oil protects the life of an engine. Without oil there 
would be excessive friction. Friction creates heat. Heat 
causes expansion. The greater the expansion the greater 
the friction, the greater the heat. Extreme heat breaks 
down the lubicating film, causing abrasion. One adds 
to the other. When analyzed in these terms it is easy 
to understand what takes place when an engine is run 
without oil. Usually, it is seriously damaged, some- 
times beyond repair. 

Oil wears out. It gets thin from usage and through 
dilution by unburned fuel which finds its way down 
past the pistons into the crankcase. 

The low gravity of ordinary commercial gasoline is 
such that an odor of kerosene can be detected when 
heat is applied. It is difficult to vaporize completely 
even when the carburetion of the engine is correctly 
regulated. When the mixture is too rich a certain per- 
centage is not consumed at all, and as a result, the un- 
burned portion of liquid gasoline, or almost kerosene, 
accumulates in the cylinders, dilutes the lubricant, and 
slowly but surely finds its way past the pistons into 
the crankcase. 

This fuel thins the oil and takes away its lubricating 
qualities, causing premature wear throughout the 
engine. 

In addition to destroying the lubricating properties 

85 



WHAT TO DO 

of the oil, this unburned fuel also tends to soften and 
free the carbon, thus making a gasoline-carbon grind- 
ing compound which has a tendency to aggravate the 
wear already caused by improper lubrication. 

Little but regular attention is required to avoid a 
harmful condition of this kind. As a precaution, the 
oil in the engine should be drained every few hundred 
miles and a fresh supply put in. 

It is also a good idea to watch the fuel system, see- 
ing that the fuel mixture is as lean as possible, con- 
sistent with performance, and that the vacuum tank is 
functioning properly. 

A gasoline engine would literally melt if some means 
were not provided to dispose of the heat created by the 
burning gasoline. The faster an engine is run the 
greater the number of explosions and the more heat per 
minute, therefore, the arrangement of the cooling sys- 
tem is such that as the speed of the engine is increased 
the cooling equipment functions to a greater degree, 
prevents the engine from getting too hot when used in 
connection with a radiator of suitable design and capac- 
ity, and at the same time keeps the temperature of the 
engine at the right point for efficient and economical 
operation. 

Gasoline engines functions best after the cooling 
water has reached a temperature of about 160 degrees 
fahrenheit. For this reason the design of the cooling 
system has been carefully determined so that the tem- 
perature of the engine is approximately correct when 
the vehicle is driven at a normal speed under normal 
conditions The method of cooling usually consists of 
water jackets cast integral with and around the cylin- 

86 



WHAT TO DO 

der walls and combustion chambers, a water pump, a 
radiator and a fan. 

As the speed increases the flow of water through the 
radiator and motor in increased in proportion by the 
water pump and at the same time the momentum of the 
car causes a great amount of air to pass through the 
radiator and a great volume of air is drawn through the 
radiator by the fan. This air reduces the temperature 
of the water as it flows through the radiator and also 
helps keep the temperature lower by contact with the 
outside of the engine. 

The radiator should be kept filled and the fan bell 
should have sufficient tension to turn the fan. 

The cooling arrangement has been worked out on the 
basis of normal weather and operating conditions. In 
extremely cold weather it may be necessary to reduce 
the amount of air that passes through the radiator. 
This can be done by using a cover arranged in such a 
manner that the flow of air through the radiator can 
be regulated to suit the weather. 



87 



WHAT TO DO 



CHAPTER X 

THE STORAGE BATTERY 

What Every Car Onwer Ought to Know About His 
Storage Battery 

J. J. King, Gen. Mgr., Standard Storage Battery Co. 

During the last six or eight years the storage battery 
has become one of the fundamental parts of the auto- 
mobile. Until very recent years the motorist has given 
it less thought and consideration than most any other 
of the vital organs in the car mechanism. 

The little power plant, consisting of electric genera- 
tor, storage battery and electric motor, constitutes one 
of the greatest improvements in motor car refinement 
and convenience since the first inception of the motor 
vehicle, yet, few owners take the trouble to familiarize 
themselves with the simple working principles of this 
important unit of their car. 

The storage battery is a reservoir for storing away 
electrical energy to be used in lighting the car and 
cranking the engine. The generator which is driven by 
the engine when the car is in operation furnishes elec- 
trical energy to the battery which in turn absorbs and 
holds this power until called upon to extend it in useful 
work. The cranking of the engine is done by means of 
an electrical motor receiving its driving current from 
the battery. 

The electric storage battery commonly used for start- 



WHAT TO D^ 

ing and lighting motor vehicles is known as the lead 
plate accumulator and consists of a number of individ- 
ual cells or units grouped together to form the complete 
battery. Each cell or unit is capable of giving off an 
electrical current having a pressure of approximately 2 
volts so that on nearly all cars batteries are used having 
either three or six cells giving voltages of six and 
twelve respectively. These have been found to be the 
most suitable size for this purpose and have been al- 
most universally adopted. 

Batteries vary in size, however, irrespective of their 
voltage, as each cell is made up of a number of lead 
plates and the size and number of these plates deter- 
mine the capacity and endurance of the battery. The 
cell consists of a rubber jar in which are contained the 
positive and negative groups of plates. These plates 
alternate first negative and then positive and are con- 
nected together by lead straps. All the positive plates 
are connected to one strap which leads up thru the hard 
rubber jar cover to the positive terminal post and all 
the negative plates, of wh:^ch there are always one 
more than of the positive, are connected to a similar 
strap leading up to the negative terminal post. Each 
positive plate is separated from its neighbor, a negative 
plate, by what is known as a separator. This consists 
in most cases of a thin piece of carefully selected wood 
which is grooved on the side next to the positive plate 
to allow of free circulation of the battery acid about the 
plate. These wooden separators are treated by differ- 
ent processes to remove resinous matter and other al- 
buminous contents and they are selected with a view to 
their being of maximum porosity in allowing the bat- 

89 



WHAT TO DO 

tery electrolyte or acid to flow thru their natural pores. 

The separator must be of such nature as to permit of 
free and easy passage of liquid or electricity from one 
plate to the other but its pores must be so fine that 
little particles of lead which slough off from the plates 
cannot enter and eventually form a tree from one plate 
to the next. This is known as an internal short circuit 
and in a little time will make such a cell worthless or 
"dead" until such time as a new separator is inserted 
and the battery recharged. 

The plates which we have mentioned as constituting 
the principal part of the cell are made of lead oxides 
retained in a framework or grid of metalic lead. The 
positive plate consists of a peroxide of lead and the 
negative plate of a soft spongy lead, both of a very 
porous nature. After the plates are assembled in the 
cell, as told above, with separators between them, the 
electrolyte which consists of sulphuric acid diluted with 
distilled water to about 1.300 specific gravity, is added 
until the plates are entirely immersed. The plates im- 
mediately absorb the acid content of this solution and 
in a short time one would find the liquid in the cell to 
contain very little acid and be mostly distilled water. 
An electric current is now passed thru the plates and in 
a short time the action of this current drives the acid 
back into the solution. 

By means of a hydrometer showing the specific 
gravity of the solution, the exact acid strength can be 
told and when the battery is fully charged it will be 
found that nearly all the acid that was originally put 
into the cell is in suspense in the solution. When this 
condition exists and the gravity of the solution is about 
1.280 the cell is said to be fully charged and if the 

90 



WHAT TO DO 

charging current be discontinued and wires connected 
to the positive and negative terminal posts of the cell, 
current is given off it will be found that the acid in the 
electrical energy will be given off. As more and more 
solution is slowly going back into the plates until at 
last when the cell will no longer give off an electrical 
current it will be found that the solution has once 
more given up to the plates its acid content and practi- 
cally nothing but water remains. 

In simple terms this is the principle of the lead 
storage battery which is often referred to as a reversi- 
ble battery. An electrical current will drive the acid 
out of the plates into the solution and in turn an elec- 
trical current may be generated within the plates them- 
selves as the acid returns into their structure. With 
this explanation of the principle and construction of the 
battery the reader will no doubt have a clearer concep- 
tion of the whys and wherefores of the troubles which 
may be occasioned in the use of his battery and should 
no doubt appreciate more readily the following points 
in the care and repair of the battery. 

The Ammeter — Nearly all Motor Vehicles are equip- 
ped with an ammeter on the dash panel for indicating 
the rate at which the storage battery is being charged 
or discharged. This instrument is connected by means 
of a suitable shunt in one of the storage battery lead 
wires, and is known as a zero center instrument. When 
the battery is in a state of rest, the indicating hand will 
rest at zero in the center of the dial. Such ammeters 
are usually marked '"Charge" on one side of the dial, 
and "'Discharge" on the other, and when the battery is 
being charged by the Generator, the hand will move 

91 



WHAT TO DO 

away from zero, and indicate the amount of current in 
amperes which is flowing thru the battery. 

In like manner when the battery is being discharged, 
the hand will move from zero in the opposite direction 
and indicate the amount of current in amperes 
that is being taken from the battery. The current re- 
quired for starting the motor is too great to be regis- 
tered on this dash ammeter, but it does indicate the 
current used for all other purposes. The amount of 
current which a battery may receive from the Genera- 
tor varies with the size of the battery, and these mat- 
ters are suitably determined by the manufacturer and 
various devices are installed which permit of only the 
required amount of current being sent through the 
battery. This rate is usually given in the hand books 
published by the car manufacturer, and if the driver 
will familiarize himself with the correct charging rate 
for his battery, he will be able to know at all times, by 
means of his ammeter, whether or not the Generator 
is furnishing the proper amount of current to the bat- 
tery. He will also be able to tell by this ammeter when 
a short circuit has developed in his wiring as in such 
event the hand would move away from zero in the di- 
rection of discharge even tho all of his lights were 
turned off, and he was apparently consuming no cur- 
rent. 

Operating Troubles and Their Remedy — ^The troubles 
generally experienced by the motorist in connection 
with his storage battery may usually be attributed to 
failure on his part to familarize himself with the few 
little details which are necessary to its proper working. 

First, and most important, is the necessity for keep- 

92 



• WHAT TO DO 

ing the liquid solution above the tops of the battery 
plates. Under no circumstance should the motorist ever 
add any liquid to the solution in the cells excepting pure 
distilled water, or clean rain water, which has been 
caught in nonmetallic vessels. This service is usually 
performed gratis by the many storage battery service 
stations, but can be done with perfect safety by the 
driver himself if he cares to do so. The constant charge 
and discharge of the storage battery generates a cer- 
tain amount of heat and this, together with natural 
climatic conditions, causes evaporation within the cell. 
This evaporation does not extend to the more heavy 
acid and accordingly is entirely remedied by the addi- 
tion of distilled water. 

Waters containing minerals or other impurities are 
likely to set up chemical or mechanical action within 
the cell which may neutralize the acid, harden the 
plates and clog the porous structure of both plates and 
separators, causing rapid deterioration of the battery's 
capacity. 

If the driver fails to add water to his battery, and 
the solution is permitted to fall below the top of the 
plates, the battery is not only lowered in efficiency, but 
excess sulphation takes place upon the exposed surface 
of the plate. The separator now exposed to the air 
soon rots and a short circuit may even develop. The 
only remedy will be to have the plates removed and new 
separators inserted followed by a long slow charge in 
the service station which will perhaps remove and 
break down the hard crust of sulphation which has 
formed on the plates. If the matter has gone too far, 

93 



IV HAT TO DO ■ 

such remedy will be so costly that it may be economy 
to rebuild the cell with new plates. 

Much expense and trouble may be avoided and long 
life asured the battery by frequent and regular inspec- 
tion, at least twice a month, of the level of the battery 
electrolyte or solution. 

Second in importance to watering the battery is the 
matter of keeping the battery charged. Storage bat- 
teries are very similar in this respect to animals and 
human beings. They must be fed whether they are 
working or not. 

Many motorists imagine that when the car is put in 
storage for a period of three or four months they are 
doing the battery a real kindness by permitting it to 
rest. This, however, is not the case, and the battery's 
life and vitality depend upon its use and action. When 
the battery is fully charged very little deterioration is 
taking place, but if charging is discontinued, the bat- 
tery immediately starts discharging of its own accord, 
and if given no further attention would eventually be- 
come completely discharged. Batteries in a discharged 
condition are subject to excess sulphation, and if al- 
lowed to remain too long in this condition, will reach a 
state from which they are beyond economical recovery. 

It is therefore very important that the battery be re- 
tained in a charged condition. This condition may be 
determined by a visit to the nearest service station or 
may be had by the motorist himself with the aid of a 
battery hydrometer. Nearly all battery hydrometers are 
marked to show three states of the solution which re- 
flect that the battery is either charged, half -charged, 
or discharged. When the hydrometer indicates that 
specific gravity of the solution is from 1.250 to 1.300, 

94 



WHAT TO DO 

the battery may be considered in a normal condition, 
the customary reading for a fully charged cell being 
1.280. When the gravity reads less than 1.200, the 
danger point has been reached, and the battery should 
receive a charge from external sources. This may in- 
dicate that the starter is being excessively used or that 
a great deal of night driving is done in which event the 
generator has been unable to supply enough current to 
the storage battery to make up for the excessive de- 
mands. It may also indicate that the generator is not 
charging properly and should be tested. 

Before leaving this subject, it might be well to men- 
tion the fact that trouble is sometimes incurred by 
overcharging as well as undercharging. The protective 
devices mentioned above may not compensate for all 
conditions, and on long trips where the starter and 
lights are used infrequently, the battery is likely to re- 
ceive too much current. This condition may be reme- 
died by permitting the head lights to bum for an hour 
or more each day and on such prolonged journeys, it 
will be well to make more frequent inspection of the 
level of the solution in the cells. 

Third in importance in the care of the battery and 
perhaps equally as important as the two subjects pre- 
viously mentioned is the matter of keeping all terminal 
and wiring connections snug and tight. Poor contacts 
and loose connections not only make for trouble in 
starting the motor and for dim lights but also retard 
the battery from being properly charged and if the con- 
nections are loose in the battery terminals themselves 
it may lead to more serious trouble. Loose connections 
at these points cause the cable to whip about and some- 
times loosen the post and its seal from the rubber top 

95 



WHAT TO DO 

cover in the cell. This shortly leads to damaged separa- 
tors, perhaps plates broken off from the connecting 
straps, which leads to a short circuit and a "dead" cell. 

Then too, there is the further danger of fire, as these 
loose connections sometimes get very hot and give off 
electric sparks which have been known to ignite oil 
soaked parts of the car causing disastrous loss. 

It is also important to keep the battery and terminals 
clean as the efficiency of a connection is lowered by 
corrosion. Acid, which is sometimes spilled in testing, 
soon eats into and rots the case if allowed to remain. 
Occasional washing with soda water followed by clear 
water will insure longer life to the case, while the term- 
inals may be kept clean by a coating of vaseline. 

These are the most important points to be empha- 
sized and remembered in the care of the battery, and 
while there are troubles which develop from other 
sources, careful records maintained in large battery 
service stations have shown that more than 95 per cent 
of all premature battery ailments are brought on by 
one of the afore mentioned causes. If the reader will 
comply with the cautions mentioned above it can be 
safety said that his battery will far outlive any guaran- 
tee which the maker has seen fit to place upon it. 

In general then, it will be well to keep an eye to the 
water level in the cells, to look to the ammeter to see 
that battery is charging properly, and to make certain, 
by hydrometer test, that the battery does not reach 
and remain in a discharged condition. 

The purpose of this article is to give the actual user 
of the storage battery a little insight into its workings, 
and to caution him in the few essentials of care which 
will make for long life in his battery. No effort has 

96 



WHAT TO DO 

been made to touch upon the unusual occurrences such 
as broken jars or jar covers, or other matters which 
must be left to the service station for repair. 

As a closing paragraph to this article, the writer 
would like to impress upon the motorist the value and 
importance of the service to be rendered by the average 
storage battery service station. No doubt many of us 
have had a costly experience with our storage battery 
and have then and there declared that those people en- 
gaging in the storage battery business were "ruthless 
profiteers." It strikes a rather painful spot when some 
day we are compelled to spend a twenty dollar bill or 
maybe two, to remedy something about our car which 
we have given the least of thought and consideration. 

The majority of these stations render service which 
is invaluable to the motorist, and aside from the service 
of adding distilled water to the cells, they test the bat- 
tery and are able to advise the customer the best 
course to pursue in securing a maximum of usefulness 
and life from his battery. 

Naturally, the service station man, by such service, 
expects to secure the motorists business at such time 
as he may require a new battery, but he is nevertheless 
prolonging the life of the car owner's battery, to the 
best of his ability. 

On the whole, the service station man is worth get- 
ting acquainted with, and by judicious use of his ad- 
vice and service, your battery cost may be reduced to 
the very minimum. 



97 



WHAT TO DO 



CHAPTER XI 

THE FORD TIMER 

Troubles — How Detected — How Remedied — How 
Avoided 

By Ian. E. Maltby, Milwaukee Engine & Supply Co. 

Fully 90 per cent of the trouble which Ford owners 
have with the timer or commutator is due to neglect. 
Properly and regularly cared for, a good timer is an 
amazingly durable little instrument, functioning per- 
fectly for thousands of miles, and finally giving due and 
fair warning before it calls for replacement. 

Timer troubles are not hard to detect, although the 
beginner often confuses them with carburetion dif- 
ficulties. Hard starting, skipping or misfiring when 
under load, popping and muffler explosions at high 
speed are the commonest symptoms of a defective 
timer. 

Generally speaking,timer troubles are remedied only 
by replacement, as it seldom pays to attempt to repair 
a timer which is so inexpensive to replace. In replace- 
ment, too much care cannot be exercised in the choice 
of the instrument purchased. The complicated types, 
of which there are many on the market, are no better 
buys than cheap unbranded timers. And for the 
same reason — they lack durability. Quality of mate- 
rials and simplicity of designs are the prime requisites 
of a timer for the Ford, for it must be remembered that 

98 



WHAT TO DO 

the average timer functions under disadvantageous 
conditions at all times — usually in a mess of dirt and 
grease. 

If the instrument itself is good, most timer troubles 
can be avoided by periodical cleaning and oiling. On 
installation, a timer should be thoroughly flushed with 
light engine oil of good quality. It should be freely 
oiled thereafter every hundred miles or so. A good 
plan is to oil it once a week. Every 500 miles — or once 
a month — the timer shell should be lifted out, thor- 
oughly cleaned with kerosene, then oiled and replaced. 

If the timer is allowed to run dry, rapid wear of all 
moving parts naturally follows. It has also been found 
that a metallic ridge will form on raceway and roller 
which materially interferes with proper ignition. Fail- 
ure to clean the instrument at intervals will cause it 
to become gummed up with a mess of old oil and dirt 
until finally electrical contact is entirely prevented. 
Misfiring is usually due to the raceway having become 
worn and wavy so that the roller touches only parts 
of the contact or jumps some of them entirely. This 
misfiring at high speed is evidenced by repeated pop- 
ping and explosions in the muffler. 

Bumpy raceways are oftimes caused by water drip- 
ping on the timer from leaky radiator hose. This 
water swells the fibre out of shape, thus raising the 
fibre to a greater level than the contacts. Regardless 
of the quality of the fibre used it will swell when sub- 
jected to water in this way. Cheap timers are also 
often subject to loose contact points which often cause 
aggravated misfiring. In the finer instruments the 

99 



WHAT TO DO 

contact points are imbedded in machined grpoyes and 
cannot loosen. 

The importance of a smooth, clean raceway and a 
correctly aligned and well oiled brush assembly will be 
appreciated when it is recalled that the timer roller 
makes 2,442 contacts per minute — 40 per second — 
when the car travels thirty miles an hour. Yet each 
contact must thoroughly saturate a coil unit so that the 
low magneta current of less than 18 volts can be step- 
ped up to the 5,000-15,000 volt '"Juice" that fires the 
cylinders. 

Some job that little timer has to perform! That is 
why it pays to buy the best you can get and give it 
regular care. 



100 



WHAT TO DO 



CHAPTER XII 

THE FUEL SYSTEM— ITS CARE 

The fuel system (gasoline storage tank, gas line, 
vacuum tank — if the car is thus equipped — and the 
carburetor) requires little routine attention beyond 
seeing that all connections are tight and pipes open 
(storage tank to vacuum tank — to carburetor — to 
inlet manifold) and that sediment and water are re- 
moved from the points where such accumulations are 
possible. 

Such accumulations can be drained from the stor- 
age tank by opening the cock on the bottom of the 
tank provided for that purpose. Once or twice each 
season it is a good plan to drain the storage tank com- 
pletely, particularly if the gasoline should seem to 
contain much water. After draining, the gasoline can 
be strained back into the tank through a chamois skin 
to separate the water. Water and sediment should 
be removed frequently in winter, particularly if the 
car has a sediment bulb as it may fill with water and 
freeze thus stopping the flow of gasoline. Similar 
trouble may sometimes be caused by water freezing 
in the carburetor. In either case it can be remedied 
by wrapping with cloths wrung out of boiling water, 
thereafter opening drain cocks to permit accumula- 
tions to escape. 

Once every two or three months, or oftener if the 
motor should begin to misfire, pop or sputter, the 

101 



WHAT TO DO 

filter plug or screen of the carburetor should be re- 
moved and cleaned. Before the car owner does this 
he should be sure he knows exactly how to do it and 
should be particularly careful not to disturb the car- 
buretor adjustment in any way. 

Every five or six weeks the strainer screen of the 
vacuum tank should be cleaned. Every five hundred 
miles the vacuum tank should be drained. 

Once every season, or oftener, if need should occur, 
disconnect the gasoline feed line and remove any ac- 
cumulated sediment. This can be done very effec- 
tively with compressed air. This is particularly ad- 
visable if the pipe has any bends or depressions where 
sediment would naturally accumulate. In replac- 
ing, care should be taken not to cross any threads. 

Leakage of gasoline from any source is not only 
wasteful but dangerous and should be stopped at 
once. Such leaks may be due to gas line connections 
having become loose from vibrations. In such case 
the remedy of course is to tighten the connections. 
Possibly also it will be necessary to put in new gaskets. 
Be sure not to cross any threads and be equally care- 
ful not to exert enough pressure to crack the line. 
A crack in the gas line should be soldered at once but 
a make-shift repair can be made by plastering the 
orifice with brown soap, held in place with a wrap- 
ping of tire tape. A little better repair and one 
which may suffice even if the line is actually broken 
in two, is to cut a sufficiently large strip from an old 
inner tube and bind it tightly around the break with 
wire. 

A small or occasional leak at the air vent of the 
vacuum tank need not occasion any alarm or call for 

102 



WHAT TO DO 

any adjustment. If, however, it continues to over- 
flow, possibly the air hole in the storage tank is 
stopped up. Leakage in the vacuum tank may also 
occur at the head of the tank or at the carburetor 
connection. If the former is the case, it may be 
remedied by removing the cover, being careful not to 
injure gasket, cover the gasket with shellac and 
replace. 

After removing and replacing the cover of the 
vacuum tank the tank can be refilled by turning the 
engine over a few times with the spark off and the 
throttle closed. 

A leak at the carburetor is possibly due to a small 
particle of dirt having lodged under the flat needle 
valve. By opening the valve half a turn back and 
forth a few times, the obstruction may pass through. 
Or the valve may be opened half a turn and the 
throttle lever given two or three quick pulls, return- 
ing the valve exactly to its original position. If it is 
due to a leaky valve the trouble may be stopped by 
a few VERY light taps on the top of the valve stem, 
thus causing the valve to seat properly. 

If this does not stop the overflow the needle valve 
may be defective and will have to be replaced or the 
trouble may be due to the float which, if cork, may 
have become gasoline soaked or, if metal, may have 
developed a leak which may likewise prevent it from 
floating. In either case a repair is necessary which 
the car owner will do well to leave to a more ex- 
perienced hand. 

Leakage and overflow, due to flooding is about the 
only obvious and unmistakable carburetor trouble. 
If any trouble develops which causes the car owner 

103 



WHAT TO DO 

to suspicion that all is not right with his carburetor 
he should have his suspicion well confirmed before 
adjusting it himself or permitting any one else to do 
so. Every other possible cause should be thoroughly 
tested out before the carburetor is disturbed. In any 
search for trouble make the carburetor the last place 
to look and the last part to touch. 

Carburetors are tested and set and adjusted before 
the car is delivered to the purchaser and it is seldom 
indeed that any further adjustment becomes neces- 
sary. Many times adjustments are made when ad- 
justments are not called for and such tend to ag- 
gravate the trouble for which a remedy was sought 
or cause additional troubles of a different sort. 

The necessity for an adjustment that will change 
the composition or quality of the mixture will not 
arise suddenly. If the car has been running satis- 
factorily it is most unlikely that the carburetor is the 
seat of any suddenly developed trouble. 

Adjustments may possibly become necessary and if 
the trouble can not be found elsewhere the car owner 
can open the priming cock of a cylinder and get a, 
good line on the product of his carburetor by observing 
the color of the flame. If it is correct, the flame will 
be blue ; if over-rich, it will be red ; if too lean, it will 
be white. The car owner must remember, however, 
that a mixture apparently too lean, may have been 
correct when it left the carburetor but may have been 
weakened by the admission of air through some leak 
in the inlet manifold or connection. 

After the need for some adjustment is definitely 
and unmistakably established, it can be made in a 
few minutes by any one who really knows how. The 

104 



WHAT TO DO 

car owner can do it if he has studied the chapter on 
carburetors in the instruction book that came with 
his car or if he has at hand an instruction book pub- 
lished by the manufacturer of his particular make 
of carburetor. But unless a carburetor is to be ad- 
justed with absolute correctness it had better be left 
alone and since an experienced mechanic can make 
the necessary adjustment in a few minutes it will 
be real economy for the car owner to leave the job 
to the service station maintained for his car or his 
carburetor. 

With a correctly adjusted carburetor the next fac- 
tor toward fuel economy is care in the purchase of 
gasoline, a matter of real importance now that there 
are so many refineries and the market is so full of 
gasoline of so many varying grades and qualities. A 
simple test of the quality of gasoline is to pour a 
little in the palm of the hand. If it evaporates 
quickly, leaving the hand dry, its quality is good. If 
it evaporates slowly and leaves a watery or greasy 
residue, the quality is low and should not be used. 

In buying gasoline, as in buying anything else, the 
car owner will save money — and trouble — by seeking 
the product of a well known and reputable manu- 
facturer. 

Gasoline, particularly of the lower grades, is likely 
to contain more or less water, and other impurities 
to which may be traced most of the troubles of the 
carburetor and other parts of the fuel system. De- 
spite the extra trouble entailed, gasoline should al- 
ways be strained through a chamois skin into the 
tank. If this be done, be sure that the funnel fits 
smoothly into the intake vent of the tank, thus creat- 

105 



WHAT TO DO 

ing a "ground" and preventing a spark from the static 
electricity generated by the passage of the gasoline. 

Exhaust fumes contain a deadly gas which causes 
asphyxiation and death without warning by odor or 
preliminary symptoms. For this reason a car should 
not be permitted to run in a closed garage. If one 
must work about a car while it is running the car 
should be in the open air or the garage doors kept 
open. 

If gasoline should catch fire do not run from it 
and do not attempt to put it out with water. A wet 
blanket or sand or anything that will shut off the air 
will do the work effectively. All cars and every 
home garage should be equipped with a chemical fire 
extinguisher. 



106 



WHAT TO DO 



CHAPTER XIII 

THE CARBURETOR 

Troubles Caused by — How Corrected 
Care of 

By V. I. Shobe, Zenith Carburetor Co. 

Although the carburetor is a most essential part of 
the equipment of every automobile there are perhaps 
many motorists who understand little or nothing per- 
taining to it. 

In order to obtain energy from gasoline it is neces- 
sary that it be mixed with a definite volume of air be- 
fore it can be exploded in the cylinder. This mixture 
together of gasoline vapor and air is called "carbure- 
tion" and the device that keeps the two in proportion 
is called a "carburetor." 

Primarily, all carburetors are the same, in that they 
have but two functions to perform, viz., to supply the 
proper proportions of fuel and air and to deliver a hom- 
ogeneous and finely divided mixture to the engine. 

All carburetors of the present day design have been 
evolved from the simple mixing valve consisting of an 
air passage containing a single jet. Because this sim- 
ple type cannot supply the proper mixtures for the 
engine throughout its full speed and power range, it 
has been necessary to adopt various modifications that 
will compensate for and provide the mixtures required. 
These modifications are reflected in at least twenty- 
four distinct carburetor types. Of those now on our 

107 



WHAT TO DO 

market, all but one are of the adjustable type and re- 
quire frequent attention to keep them operating effi- 
ciently. 

Three prominent chemists of the U. S. Bureau of 
Mines recently made some important tests of the com- 
position of automobile exhaust gases. The conclusion 
at which they arrived was: That of every gallon of 
gasoline used in a motor car nearly thirty per cent is 
wasted through faulty carburetor adjustment resulting 
in imperfect combustion. The average motor car 
owner doubtless knows all too well that his car wastes 
gas. Consequently, when your carburetor is one of the 
adjustable type, much importance should be given to 
its careful adjustment in order that the common trou- 
bles caused by having either too rich or too lean a mix- 
ture may be remedied. 

This caution should be given : Before attacking your 
carburetor as the cause of your troubles be absolutely 
certain that it is your carburetor that is at fault. 

Your carburetor adjustments should be made only 
after the engine has been running long enough to reach 
its normal operating temperature. Be sure that all the 
spark plugs are clean and set at the proper gap. Also 
make certain that the ignition system is in perfect 
order, timer contacts clean, and that yoil have a spark 
at each cylinder. The fuel tank and piping should be 
clean and clear and all manifold connections between 
the intake valves and carburetor must be air tight. 

Carburetors of the adjustable type vary so greatly in 
their construction and in their methods of adjustment 
that it is impossible to suggest a universal remedy for 
adjustment troubles. 

With every motor car a hand-book or manual as to 

108 



WHAT TO DO 

the care and operation of the car is given. Study this 
carefully and follow the directions given for the care of 
the particular carburetor used in your car. If you do 
not have such a manual, a booklet dealing with the care 
of the carburetor can usually be furnished by the man- 
ufacturer. If unable to solve the adjustment problem 
yourself do not hesitate to call on your garage man. 

Carburetors of the non-adjustable type such as the 
Zenith have spray nozzles or jets with fixed openings 
instead of the needle valve. If found necessary to 
change the factory adjustment of this type of carbure- 
tor, it can be accomplished by unscrewing the nozzle 
and replacing with another size. This is generally un- 
necessary as the correct sized nozzles are fitted to the 
carburetor when the engine is tested at the factory. 

Two of the principal causes of carburetor troubles are 
dirt and water. 

Small particles of dirt will clog up certain small pas- 
sages in the carburetor. Water condensation often ap- 
pears in the carburetor causing rust and scale to form 
which may interfere with the flow of the gasoline. 
Water reaching the jets and passing through into the 
motor will cause spitting or backfiring and may even 
prevent the engine from running. 

The proper care of your carburetor should include its 
draining once a week and occasionally a thorough 
cleaning of all parts. Special attention should be given 
to see that the screens are kept clean. In order to get 
rid of rust and scale the carburetor should be taken 
entirely apart and all impurities blown out by means 
of an air line. 

The carburetor float is an occasional source of trou- 
ble. If the float is of cork it is apt to become gas-log- 

109 



WHAT TO DO 

ged and sink, causing a slow leakage of gasoline when 
the car is standing. This fault can be remedied by put- 
ting in a new float or by cleaning the old float with 
alcohol and painting with a thin coat of shellac after it 
has been thoroughly dried out. 

A metal float sometimes become punctured. This is 
usually caused by rough handling or accidentally drop- 
ping the float. To discover whether or not it has been 
punctured — when in doubt — submerge the float in hot 
water. If gasoline has collected inside of the float, the 
hot water will vaporize it and its presence will be de- 
tected by bubbles as it escapes from the float. It is bet- 
ter to replace a defective float with a new one rather 
than to attempt to repair it. 

If you are unable to discover the cause of your carbu- 
retor trouble, you should consult your garage man at 
once. Perhaps a wornout part should be replaced. 

In conclusion, it should again be stated that owing 
to the many different kinds of carburetors it is im- 
possible to give a "cure-all" for all carburetor troubles. 

The vital importance of keeping your carburetor as 
as clean as possible can not be emphasized too strongly. 
As stated previously, it is quite advantageous to drain 
your carburetor at least once a week. 



110 



WHAT TO DO 



CHAPTER XIV 



THE COOLING SYSTEM— ITS CARE 

In water cooled engines, the first requisite is an 
ample supply of water in the radiator at all times. 
It should be kept full all the time with clean water, 
the softer the better. Muddy water clogs up the pas- 
sages with sediment. "Hard" water causes a scale to 
form, with the same result. The best water for the 
radiator is rain water. 

Clogged water passages is a frequent cause of the 
overheating of the engine. This can be retarded by 
frequently draining the radiator and refilling with 
clean water. 

Scale and sediment can be rather effectively re- 
moved by the use of a solution of one-half pound of 
cooking soda thoroughly dissolved in three gallons 
of water. Drain the radiator, put in solution and 
let engine run for about three hours, remove, flush 
circulation system with clean water, drain again and 
refill, with clean water. 

If the car has forced circulation system, the clean- 
ing solution and the loosened scale and sediment can 
be best removed by disconnecting the upper hose and 
letting the engine pump the solution out, at the same 
time running clean water in at the top of the radiator 
as fast as the engine pumps the dirty water out. 

If the car has the thermo-syphon system, remove 
upper and lower hose connections after running 

111 



WHAT TO DO 

the engine with the cleaning solution and wash sys- 
tem out with clean water by flushing with garden hose 
iiiserted at upper hose connection at top of radiator. 

See that hose connections are tight and that the 
hose is properly put on. Sometimes a loose lining 
inside the hose almost completely shuts off the cir- 
culation. 

Be very careful not to replenish the water in the 
radiator while the motor is hot. If the cylinder head 
is so hot that the hand can not be held on it with com- 
fort, wait until the engine cools before adding water. 
It will not require many minutes for the motor to cool 
and the time lost in waiting will be more than off- 
set by the lessened danger of a cracked cylinder by put- 
ting cold water in a hot engine. 

Watch for leaks in the radiator. An overlooked 
leak may drain out the water before the driver knows 
it and as a result the engine may sustain serious dam- 
age from the consequent overheating. When a leak 
is discovered, the car owner should be very cautious 
in attempting to stop it with any of the patent prepa- 
rations sold for that purpose. Before using any of 
these he should test its solubility. If half a spoonful 
or so of it will thoroughly dissolve in a cup of water, it 
can be used without danger. He should not use any 
preparation that contains meal or any other insoluble 
substance. These may stop the leak but they are al- 
most sure to also stop up some of the water passages, 
thus impairing the efficiency of the radiator. Some- 
times a temporary repair can be made with a piece 
of chewing gum. Sometimes a coating of stiff white 
lead will stop small leaks. The only advisable course 

112 



WHAT TO DO 

to pursue when a leak occurs is to have it permanently 
repaired by a competant repair man. 

If a car is not equipped with adjustable shutters, 
to regulate the passage of air through the radiator in 
cold weather, it would be a good idea to purchase a 
hood cover for winter driving. Sometimes a similar 
effect can be had by tieing a piece of cardboard 
across the front of the radiator. When this is done, 
however, not more than half the surface should be 
covered. 

To prevent freezing of the radiator in winter, fill 
the radiator when cold weather sets in with an anti- 
freeze compound. Alkaline mixtures should be avoid- 
ed as these tend to deposit a sediment that clogs the 
water passages. The best mixture to use is one that 
contains the following: 

17 per cent Alchohol 
13 per cent Glycerine 
70 per cent water 

Additional alcohol should be put in every few weeks 
to make up for amount lost in evaporation. Any 
anti-freeze mixture should be removed as soon as 
warm weather comes and the circulation system 
cleaned in the manner already described. 

Should the radiator freeze, do not attempt to thaw 
it by running the engine. Better drive the car into a 
warm garage and apply hot water to the bottom of 
the radiator until absolutely certain that water is cir- 
culating freely. 

To prevent exterior rust, it is a good idea to have 
the radiator painted but the paint should not be ap- 
plied so heavily as to clog the interstices as this low- 
ers the ability of the radiator to throw off heat. For 

113 



WHAT ro DO 

the same reason, mud should not be allowed to remain 
on the front of the radiator. Do not attempt to wash 
this off with a hose from the outside, however. Better 
raise the hood and wash off from the inside, being 
sure that no water gets to the magneto or timer. 

Take a look every now and then at the fan, seeing 
that the bearings are lubricated and that the tension 
is tight enough to enable belt to turn fan properly. 
Clean the belt every now and then of any accumulated 
grease and dirt. This can be done with a stiff brush 
dipped in gasoline. 

If the car has a forced circulation system, it may be 
necessary, occasionally, to tighten the nut on the 
pump shaft in order to stop leakage. If this does not 
stop the leak, unscrew the stuffing box and re-wrap 
shaft with ordinary candle wicking, well coated with 
graphite and tighten nut again. The wicking should 
be wound around the shaft in the same direction as 
the nut tightens. 



114 



WHAT TO DO 



CHAPTER XV 

PISTON RINGS 
Their Manufacture, Installation and Service. 

By A. J. Mummert, Chief Engineer, McQuay-Norris 
Manufacturing Co. 

Piston rings are light springy bands of iron that fit 
into grooves on pistons of gas engines, and keep the 
gases from passing into the crank case. They are made 
in a variety of forms — ranging from the one-piece con- 
centric ring which is generally used by manufacturers 
in new motors, to multiple piece rings made up of seven 
or eight pieces which are used principally to meet re- 
placement field conditions. 

More than fourteen hundred patents have been taken 
out on the subject of piston rings, which gives one an 
idea of the wide range of effort which has been made in 
this one element of the automobile field. 

Piston rings are made of gray iron for the same rea- 
son that cylinders and pistons are made of this mate- 
rial. It is because of good wearing quality in cast iron. 
In reality a piston ring is a spring that would ordinarily 
be made out of steel, if the wearing quality were not so 
important. Steel is very strong and makes a good 
wearing surface under certain conditions, but cast iron 
is a much more suitable material for the reciprocating 
action in cylinders and pistons on account of the free 
graphite contained in the structure of gray iron. This 
graphite, which is very similar to the lead in a pencil, 

115 



WHAT TO DO 

acts as a lubricant between the surfaces and permits 
pistons, cylinders and rings to perform much better 
with regard to wear than if they were made of steel. 
Any grade of gray iron has a certain percentage of this 
carbon or graphite matrix with its lubricating qualities, 
but piston ring iron must be very elastic and strong as 
well, and on that account a great deal of effort is made 
in the selection of materials, the melting, refining and 
casting of the iron. 

The most recent improvement in the making of gray 
iron for piston rings is the use of the electric furnace, 
which makes the process expensive, but produces a 
vastly superior product. 

Manufacturers of automobiles, almost universally, 
use a single piece concentric piston ring. They can do 
so, because when the engine leaves the factory the 
cylinders are perfectly round, true and straight; the 
pistons are a tight fit, and all of the conditions sur- 
rounding the rings are ideal. Therefore, in original 
factory installations the one piece ring is very satisfac- 
tory, especially in view of its economy, because it can be 
made so much cheaper than can the special types that 
are used in the replacement field. 

After the car has been driven ten or twenty thousand 
miles, cylinder conditions change somewhat according 
to the locality in which it operates. If the car is driven 
in a rural district on dirt roads, the piston ring wear 
will be considerably greater than the same car used in 
city traffic continually where the dust is not so serious. 

It must be remembered that the average small car 
draws in, roughly, 150 to 200 cubic inches of air every 
other revolution, and with the air the dust that is car- 
ried in will be deposited in the cylinders. There it acts 

116 



WHAT TO DO 

as a mild abrasive and produces excessive wearing of 
the parts. The cyhnders, pistons and rings are the 
first to have contact with this abrasive material. Since 
the piston operates with a pressure in two directions 
only, we can expect the greatest wear to follow accord- 
ingly, and on that account cylinders wear oval or egg 
shaped with use. This wear, of course, is measured in 
thousandths of an inch, not fractions of inches, and 
while it is comparatively small, inside micrometers will 
show its presence. Pistons get smaller and the cylin- 
ders get larger. Eventually some cylinders have to be 
rebored and new pistons replaced, but this is very often 
not until thirty or forty thousand miles have been run. 

In the meantime, piston ring replacements that are 
made with a view of correcting gas leakage and oil 
pumping are subject to more severe conditions than the 
rings originally placed in the car. These replacement 
rings must be flexible and they must make up for the 
lack of packing efficiency that the original tight fitting 
piston and cylinder had. They must also pack tightly 
against the greater oil flow that is now passing through 
the larger clearance between the cylinder and the 
piston. 

These conditions are responsible for the variety of 
constructions that are found on the market for replace- 
ment purposes. One type is for the car that is pump- 
ing oil excessively ; another has points in its construc- 
tion which makes it very flexible, etc. 

In all of these constructions, however, a common ef- 
fort has been made to produce three or four important 
effects. A ring must press out against the cylinder 
wall with a definite pressure, and this contact with the 
cylinder should be uniform around the entire circum- 

117 



WHAT TO DO 

ference of the ring. The rings must fit properly in 
grooves that are true, because it is not the tightness of 
the ring in the groove that packs the piston, but the 
manner in which the side surface of the ring and the 
side of the ring groove make contact. If these surfaces 
are true, then the ring due to friction caused by the 
piston moving up and down acts like a valve or a gasket 
when packing against gas leakage. 

It matters little what feature is placed upon a ring — 
if the above mentioned points are not handled properly, 
the ring will not be satisfactory. 

The necessity for piston ring replacement in a motor 
car is not always clearly indicated to the user. The pro- 
cess of wear and increasing inefficiency, due to worn 
rings is gradual. The increasing fuel consumption and 
oil consumption, and the decrease in the power ability is 
gradual and most drivers are unaware of these chang- 
ing conditions until they have to shift gears on smaller 
hills, or clean sparks plugs at frequent periods. 

Considering the great difference in fuel and oil econ- 
omy that is occasioned by piston ring wear, it would be 
economy in the long run if some definite time could be 
set in which the rings were changed periodically — say 
every ten or fifteen thousand miles. A great many 
people imagine that if the surface of the ring looks 
bright and shiny it is in good condition and can be left 
until the next shopping of the car. The thickness of a 
piston ring and its deflection when compressed de- 
termines its pressure against the cylinder and since the 
thickness is reduced gradually but steadily with wear, 
it is very easy to find rings pohshed on the face, but 
worn to three quarters or half their original thickness. 
This lack of pressure not only allows gases to pass the 

118 



WHAT TO DO 

piston reducing the effective pressure on the piston, 
but they also permit an excessive amount of oil to reach 
the combustion chambers. 

The best test for a motor car is a slow speed opera- 
tion against a good grade. Motors running at high 
speed on level ground do not require the ipacking effi- 
ciency that they would when pulling hard at slow speed. 
The leakage possibility js the same in either case, but 
the time element is so short that the loss does not 
amount to a large volume on each stroke. 

If an owner can take his car out and pull a grade at 
slow speed on high as well as when the car was new, 
then he can be fairly sure that there is nothing wrong 
with his piston rings, provided his oil consumption is 
just as low as when the car was new. 

The increased oil consumption in motor cars in the 
last few years has become a decided problem for own- 
ers. This trouble is increasing in spite of better piston 
rings, better engine design and better materials. It 
is due largely to the demand for overpowered cars. 
The average motor car requires about one fifth of its 
total available power to propel it along a level road at 
twenty miles an hour. The only way that the car can 
be held to twenty miles an hour is by throttling the 
engine. When an engine is throttled there is a consid- 
erable vacuum on the suction stroke and a subnormal 
compression and explosion. The light pressure down 
have a lesser effect in keeping the oil back than if full 
pressure were in force and the vacuum is drawing oil 
upward toward the combustion chamber. 

The more reserve power we put into an automobile, 
the tighter we must close the throttle for a given speed 
and the public demand for reserve power in the modern 

119 



WHAT TO DO 

automobile makes it impossible to check this trouble by 
a change of design. 

Piston rings are a big factor in oil pumping and un- 
less a poorly designed oiling system is responsible for 
the trouble, an economical and quick remedy is possible 
with new piston rings. 

The specifications covering the ordering of piston 
rings for used cars are quite important. There is a 
tendency for repairmen and owners to over-estimate 
the wear in their cylinders and grooves. The diameter 
of the piston ring should be the same as the diameter of 
the cylinder in which it is to operate. Any diameter 
or width can be obtained and the rings should always 
be ordered according to the diameter of the cylinders. 
The width of a ring should be such dimension that the 
ring shall be free in the groove after it is installed on 
the piston. This amounts to about one-half thous- 
andths clearance between the side of the ring and the 
ring groove. In many cases the groove is worn so that 
its bearing surfaces are no longer true with the piston. 
In such cases the groove should be trued up in a lathe, 
widened in this way and a ring width one thirty-second 
oversize should be purchased. Rings slightly oversize 
in diameter also should be purchased, and careful meas- 
urement of the cylinders will give the exact oversize 
which is needed. 

At the prevailing prices of gasoline and lubricating 
oil it is not difficult to figure the short time that it 
takes to save the cost of replacing piston rings, to say 
nothing of the comfort of better acceleration, better hill 
climbing ability and smoother operation. 



120 



WHAT TO DO 



CHAPTER XVI 



THE CARE OF THE CLUTCH 

For a clutch of any type to last long and work 
properly, it must not only be correctly cared for and 
adjusted when adjustments are necessary but it must 
also be used intelligently. 

One bad habit which many drivers have, is driving 
with one foot on the clutch pedal. Time after time, 
this results in just enough pressure being exerted to 
permit the clutch to slip a little with consequent un- 
necessary wear on the facings and bearings as well. 

The same evil effect is produced by continually 
throwing the clutch out to slow the car down when 
driving in crowded traffic, then speeding up and 
slipping in clutch with the gear lever still in high. 

Clutch operations should be deliberate and posi- 
tive. The clutch should definitely be in or out. A 
clutch should not be used any more than is necessary 
to accomplish the definite functions for which it is de- 
signed. 

First and foremost in the care of a clutch is its 
lubrication. The lubrication points vary with the 
type of clutch. Find out from the instruction book 
where, how and when your clutch should be lubri- 
cated and follow those instructions religiously. 

Cone Clutches are faced with leather which must 
be kept free from oil and grease or the clutch will 
slip, however carefully applied. If oil or grease 

121 



WHAT TO DO 

should accidentally get on the clutch from lubrication 
of the clutch bearings or as a result of excess oil 
working out into the clutch, it can be removed by 
spraying with gasoline, giving it about twenty minu- 
ets for the gasoline to evaporate and then applying 
five or six drops of neats foot oil. A temporary rem- 
edy is to dust with talcum or fullers earth. 

The clutch leather is kept soft and pliable by the 
use of neats foot oil, of which five or six drops should 
be applied every month. If the leather becomes dry 
and hard, the clutch will "grab", be the clutch applied 
ever so carefully and gradually. 

If the clutch leather wears down until the retaining 
rivets project, the rivets can be driven down with a 
punch until they are again below the surface of the 
leather. 

If, through neglect and unnecessary use, the leather 
surface becomes glazed, the clutch will slip just as if 
it were greasy. This can be remedied by fastening 
the clutch down in the "Out" position, cleaning the 
leather with kerosene and then roughening the leath- 
er with a fine rasp, a key-hole saw or any other tool 
with which the result can be accomplished, after 
which a few drops of neats foot oil should be applied. 

About the only care required by dry plate clutches 
is cleaning, which should be done once or twice a 
season to prevent or cure slipping which, generally, 
is due to accumulated dirt and grease. To clean, 
squirt five or six ounces of kerosene over the plate. 
With the motor running and the gear in neutral, move 
the clutch pedal back and forth quickly thus flushing 
the entire interior, washing the facings and discs, 

122 



WHAT TO DO 

afterward removing bottom drain plug and permit- 
ting the kerosene to completely drain out. If soon 
after cleaning, the clutch begins to slip, it may be due 
to oil leaking from the crank case or it may indicate 
the need of some adjustment. In either case, it should 
be looked after at once. Slipping, particularly if dry, 
will cause the plate to heat and warp. 

A disc clutch running in oil, should be cleaned once 
or twice a season or oftener if it seems to either grip 
or slip. To do this, follow the same procedure as to 
clean a dry plate clutch except that, before washing, 
the old oil should be drained out. It will be neces- 
sary to use a pint or more of kerosene. After running 
the engine a little while, with the gears in neutral, 
moving the clutch pedal back and forth, drain, add 
kerosene again and after a few minutes flushing, re- 
move and refill to proper level with new oil. If clutch 
should not seem to function properly, after cleaning, 
some adjustment is necessary. 

Never adjust a clutch of any type until you are sure 
that an adjustment is really needed. Most clutch 
troubles are relieved or cured by cleaning and lubri- 
cation. If the trouble should persist after this is 
done, consult your instruction book which will prob- 
ably tell you how to make the adjustment that seems 
to be required. 

It must be remembered, too, that seeming clutch 
troubles may be outside the clutch. Sometimes, when 
a clutch fails to engage or disengage, as it should, 
the trouble is not in the clutch but in the connecting 
rods or levers or due to wear in the clutch collar or 
other points. 

123 



WHAT TO DC 



CHAPTER XVII 



THE CARE OF THE BRAKES 

If a car-owner neglects to make it an unfailing 
practice to regularly inspect his entire brake system, 
lubricating and making any adjustments or repairs 
which may be necessary, his carelessness is hardly 
short of criminal. 

No other part of the car performs functions so 
vital to the safety, not only of the driver and those 
with him, but to pedestrians and other moving traffic 
as well. The ability of the brakes to hold — to stop 
the car — will in innumerable instances, mean the dif- 
ference between safety and an accident with more 
or less serious results. 

Inspections should be made at least once every 
month. All hinges, cams, toggles and lever bearings 
of every nature should be examined for looseness and 
for lost nuts, bolts and pins. At the same time, every 
bearing should be lubricated as provided by the 
manufacturer and with the lubricant specified. Many 
of these lubrication points, as the car owner will note 
from his instruction book, should not be left to a once- 
a-month lubrication but should be furnished with a 
wear-preventing film of oil at more frequent intervals. 

The braking pressure on each wheel should be 
equal. Make it a point, every now and then, on 
coming in from a run to put the hand on the brake 
drums. If either or both are hot, you need no better 

124 



WHAT TO DO 

indication that one or both the brakes are dragging. 
This condition should be remedied at once. A drag- 
ging brake not only soon wears out the brake lining 
but also wears out the tire on that wheel, as well. 
A dragging brake will take hold quicker than the 
brake on the other side, probably causing its wheel 
to slide and grinding the tread off the tire. Tire com- 
panies allow no adjustment on tires which show evi- 
dence of such wear. 

The braking pressure can be tested by jacking up 
the rear of the car, applying the brake and then ob- 
serving if it is equally hard to turn each of the wheels. 
The pressure should of course, be the same on both 
wheels. In making this test try the pressure, as sug- 
gested, of the emergency brake as well as the foot or 
service brake by testing each in turn. 

Adjustments to increase or lessen the pressure of 
the brakes on any car are given in the instruction 
book published by the manufacturer of the car. The 
car owner, however, should not be too quick to at- 
tempt to remedy any tightness or looseness by mak- 
ing the adjustment indicated. A brake that seems to 
slip may be caused by the brake band being covered 
with oil or grease or it may have become glazed with 
use or it may even be worn out. The rear wheels 
should be removed about once a month and the brake 
bands examined and cleaned with gasoline. Grease 
frequently works out of the rear axle housing or the 
differential and finds its way to the brake bands, 
which is certainly one place on a car which should 
not be lubricated. When the oil or grease has been 

125 



WHAT TO DO 

removed with gasoline the surface of the band may- 
be roughened up with a file or other abrasive tool. 

When a brake lining becomes worn, don't hesitate 
to have it replaced with a new one. A band that is 
worn down to where the retaining rivets are coming 
in contact with the brake drum should be removed 
and replaced at once. Not only will such contact 
fail to give the proper braking pressure but the drum 
itself will be unnecessarily injured. 

Get a good lining. You can buy a cheap one but 
considering what it has to do, how important the part 
it plays in protecting you and your car and other 
people from accident by stopping your car when you 
want to stop it, why take a chance by buying any- 
other than a well known standard brand. 

Loose brake rods and connections cause most of the 
"clatters" heard about a car. Dirty brake bands 
cause many an attention-compelling squeak. None of 
them will be heard on the car of the car owner who 
gives proper attention to his brakes nor will he ever 
be the direct cause of one of those distressingly fre- 
quent accidents reported as being "due to defective 
brakes." 



126 



WHAT TO DO 



CHAPTER XVIII 



THE CARE OF THE TRANSMISSION 

The care of the transmission begins with care in the 
use of the gear shift levers. Worn or broken gear 
teeth or stripped gears are most frequently due to 
abuse — through improper gear shifting. The ex- 
pensive repairs of replacements which these entail 
would not have been necessary if the car owner had 
handled his gears in a proper manner. 

Whenever a car owner hears — on his car or an- 
other's — noisy clashing, slap-dash gear changes, he 
may be sure that the noise will be echoed, sooner or 
later, by the ringing of the repair man's cash register. 

If he is careful in his gear changes, the car owner 
need not greatly concern himself with his trans- 
mission beyond seeing that it is occasionally cleaned 
and that it is always properly lubricated. 

Every two or three thousand miles the cover should 
be removed and the old oil drained out or the old 
grease removed. Then the plug should be closed and 
the case filled about half full of kerosene and the 
engine run slowly a little while with the gears in 
neutral. Then drain out the kerosene and go over 
the gears with a stiff brush dipped in kerosene, look- 
ing everywhere on gears and in the case for loose 
particles of metal and observing for broken or burred 
teeth. If the wear on the gears has not been excessive, 
the car owner can smooth them with a file. If the 

127 



WHAT TO DO 

breaks or burrs are of any considerable consequence, 
he will certainly prefer to let some competent me- 
chanic do the smoothing. Examination should also be 
made for loose bearings, particularly for end-play. 
This may be discovered by taking hold of the uni- 
versal joint and trying to move it back and forth. If 
end play is discovered it should be corrected at once 
as stripped gears are likely to result. 

Positively too much care can not be taken to pre- 
vent loose nuts or any other objects of any size or 
nature to get into the transmission case while the lid 
is off. Heap big trouble is sure to result. 

After cleaning and inspection, replace the drain 
plug and refill to proper level with oil or grease as 
specified by the car manufacturer. 

On old cars where the gears have become worn and 
consequently noisy, unscrupulous second-hand car 
dealers sometimes fill the transmission case with a 
very heavy grease which has been mixed with ground 
cork or similar material. This deadens the noise and 
fills up the inequalities so that temporarily every- 
thing fits tightly and operates with reasonable 
quietness. 



128 



WHAT TO DO 



CHAPTER XIX 

CARE OF THE REAR AXLE, DIFFEREN- 
TIAL AND OTHER PARTS OF THE 
REAR END ASSEMBLY. 

No part of the car is subjected to heavier or more 
continuous strain and wear than are the various bear- 
ings and gears of the rear axle and differential. In 
recognition of this, every manufacturer, in designing 
his rear end assembly has worked for simplicity and 
strength, endeavoring to have the smallest possible 
number of moving parts and these as strong and wear 
resisting as possible. 

As a result, instances of breakage in ordinary use 
are rare and if proper attention is paid to lubrication, 
wear will be slow and even the adjustments will be 
few and of little consequence. 

However, trouble — serious and probably expensive 
— will surely result if lubrication is neglected. The 
lubrication methods provided and the manufacturer's 
instructions as to when or how often to lubricate and 
the type of lubricant to use, vary with the different 
makes of cars. Whatever the instructions of any 
manufacturer are, they should be closely followed. 

At all events, lubrication should not be at less fre- 
quent intervals than the manufacturer recommends. 
If the car is being subjected to particularly hard ser- 
vice or is being driven more miles per day than is us- 
ually the case, nothing but good will result if the 

129 



WHAT TO DO 

parts are lubricated even more frequently though, of 
course, more lubricant than is necessary should not 
be put in at any time. 

The use of an excessive amount of lubricant is like- 
ly to result in oil or grease working out and onto the 
break linings. This will sometimes be the case even 
when only the proper amount has been used, although 
most manufacturers have more or less successfully 
endeavored to prevent it. 

Trouble of this sort can be rather effectively pre- 
vented by winding, the axle shaft for a space of about 
six inches with a strip of thin hard felt. Winding 
should begin from the wheel end and progress 
towards the differential. The felt can be fastened 
down with shellac and should be tied down with small 
strong string in several places. The edges of the 
fc:t should not lap. When the car is moving forward, 
the action will be to force the lubricant back towards 
the differential. 

At least once every season — and surely before 
starting on a long tour — the axle and differential 
should be thoroughly flushed out with kerosene in 
order to remove any possible grit and small metal 
particles which may have worn off the gears. At the 
same time all gears and bearings should be examined 
for broken or worn surfaces. All inequalities should 
be remedied and cracked or worn balls or rollers re- 
placed ; after which the housing should, of course, be 
packed with new lubricant as specified by the manu- 
facturer. 

A noise eminating from the axle or differential 
should be cause for alarm and have immediate at- 
tention. A humming or grinding sound may mean 

130 



WHAT TO DO 

lack of lubrication. If this should not be the cause, 
some of the gears are worn, broken or some adjust- 
ment is needed. An intermittent click or grinding 
knock occurring now and then indicates that there is 
a broken tooth and the broken off part is catching in 
the gears. Any of these things demand immediate 
attention, "lest worse befall". Almost all of the in- 
struction books tell the car owner how to make cer- 
tain adjustments in the rear end gears but many ad- 
advise the car owner to have any necessary work on 
these gears done by a competent mechanic, preferably 
at the service station maintained by the agent for the 
car. The latter is the best course to pursue unless 
the car owner has more confidence in his mechanical 
ability than is possessed by the average. 

Other rear axle parts, which though hidden away 
under the car and consequently hard to get to, must 
never-the-less have more or less frequent attention, are 
the rear universal joint (or, on some cars, the pinion 
shaft bearing) the torque (arm, rod or tubej connec- 
tions and the brake band supports, brake operating 
shafts, etc. 

The universal joint is generally enclosed in a leather 
housing which should be-re-packed every 1,000 or 1,500 
miles. If no housing is provided, one can be purchased 
and will pay the owner big dividends on the very small 
amount invested. When lubricating, inspection should 
also be made for loose or worn pin at the propeller 
shaft connection. 

The rear axle connections of the torque arm, rod or 
tube, whichever are used, should be inspected about 
once every two months and all loose bolts tightened. 

131 



WHAT TO DO 

Looseness at this point (and sometimes at the forward 
connection) cause knocks which are very hard to locat^ 
Lubrication at some of the torque connections is also 
necessary on some cars. Every car owner should be 
sure that he knows what is necessary on his car. 



132 



WHAT TO DO 



CHAPTER XX 

THE ELECTRIC EQUIPMENT— ITS CARE 

Furnishing as it does, the vital element essential to 
starting, ignition and lighting, the importance of a 
properly functioning system is obvious. It can be 
likened to the nerve system of the human body. 

To the average car owner, the electric system of his 
car is a matter full of mystery. This need not be the 
case. From the automotive courses offered by the 
automobile schools and Y. M. C. A. or from the numer- 
ous books on the subject, to be found at any library, the 
car owner can gain an intimate acquaintanceship with 
his electrical equipment that will enable him to solve 
any electrical troubles which may arise to vex him. 

But unless the car owner has, obtained a really thor- 
ough knowledge of this technical subject, he should 
take his electrical troubles to a service station main- 
tained by the manufacturer of his car or by the manu- 
facturer of the part in which the trouble exists. 

The average car owner will do well to confine the 
attention he gives to his electrical system to caring for 
it as its necessities demand. If he does tMs, he will 
have done all that the manufacturer hoped for and 
about all that will be necessary to get from it efficient 
service. 

To be able to do this, he should learn the type and 
make of his battery, magneto, generator, timer, starter 

133 



WHAT TO DO 

and the principles upon which each of these function. 

Because of the Hmited space available it is impractic- 
able to give, a detailed description of the various elec- 
tric systems used in each make of automobile. All that 
will be attempted to give information — general in its 
nature and application — that will help the car owner to 
more v/isely use and more intelligently care for his elec- 
trical system and thereby enable him to avoid most 
electrical troubles and remedy such minor troubles, as 
he, without a technical knowledge of the subject, may 
safely undertake. 

Since more troubles arise through faulty distribution 
than through inefficient generation of the electric cur- 
rent let us first consider: 

Electrk Connections and Wiring. 

The point to remember about electrical connection is 
that they must be clean and free from corrosion, mois- 
ture, grease or foreign matter of any kind that may 
serve to partially conduct the current and thus produce 
a short circuit and that they must be tight, so that per- 
fect contact between the conducting surfaces will be 
continuously maintained. Let the car owner periodically 
inspect his connections, tightening, where any tendency 
to looseness is observed and scraping and pohshing 
away any corrosion that may be found and he will have 
done all that should be necessary in regard to the elec- 
trical connections. 

All wires must be kept clean. Grease and oil dis- 
solves and will soon ruin the rubber composition with 
which wires are insulated. 

Wires should be kept straight as possible. If bent 
sharply the wires likely, in time, break through the 

134 



WHAT TO DO 

interior insulation and cause a short circuit which may 
be hard to locate. 

Wires should not come in contact with each other 
or with the frame or other parts of the car as chaf- 
ing or induction will likely result. Where contact 
cannot be avoided the point of contact should be well 
wrapped with friction tape. 

Since any defect in the insulation will permit a leak- 
age of current and produce a short circuit, the car own- 
er should watch for worn or chafed insulation and in- 
sulation that has become deadened, cracked or" porous 
through age or action of grease. 

Short Circuits — Broken Connections^ — How Evidenced 
How Detected — How Remedied. 

The failure of any part of the lighting, starting or 
ignition systems to function properly — though some- 
times due to other causes as well — is frequently, if not 
usually, due to a short circuit, loose or broken connec- 
tion. For instance, a short circuit, loose or broken con- 
nection is frequently found to be the cause when: 

(a) Engine will not start. (b) Engine hard to start, 
(c) Missing, (d) Engine stops suddenly, (e) Engine 
will not stop, (f) Lamps will not light, (g)! Lamps 
flicker, (h) Lights are dim. (i) Lights dim when 
starter is used, (j) Lamps burn out frequently, (k) 
Fuses burn out frequently. (1) Generator fails to 
charge battery, (m) Battery discharges too quickly, 
(n) Ammeter does not register or registers inconsis- 
tently, that is, when ammeter indicates charge when 
it should indicate discharge and vice versa, or when it 

135 



WHAT TO DG 

re.'^isters charge or discharge when it should register 
zero. 

Whenever any of these troubles arise, unless the car 
owner has well founded reasons for believing that the 
trouble is due to other causes, he should begin at the 
beginning — which is at the connection — and work over 
connections and wiring of the suspected circuit (see 
foot note) looking for looseness, dirt or corosion at 
the connections, chafed or broken insulation or breaks 
in the wiring. 

Frequently these can be readily discovered by run- 
ning the car at night or in a dark garage with the lights 
off. when the point where the current is leaking will 
be indicated by a bluish flicker or sparking, particu- 
larly when the wires or connections are moved. 

A more thorough test can be made with a test lamp 
or with a volt meter, either of which can be procured, 
with full instructions for their use, from dealers in 
automobile accessories or electric supplies. 

Another instrument for locating breaks or short cir- 
cuits in the high tension wires is the recently in- 
vented Ignition guage which consists of a hard rubber 
insulating shell containing a glass tube filled with Neon 
C4as. On one end of the instrument is a metal cap. 
When this is brought in contact with a high tension 
current, the gas becomes luminous. This instrument 
which is about the size of an alir guage, is said to be 

If the trouble is in the ignition and seemsi to be confined to 
one certain cylinder or cylinders, it may be located in the high 
tension system between the timer or distributor and the spark 
plug of the missing cylinder or cylinders, though the spark plug 
or plugs may be at fault. Trouble occurring regularly or irreg- 
ularly in all cylinders will most likely be located in the low ten- 
sion system or in the secondary system between the battery and 
the timer or distributor. 

136 



WHAT TO DO 

very efficient. It is sold by accessory dealers. 

If, in searching for the cause of his trouble, the car 
owner discovers losoe, dirty or corroded terminals or 
connections, the remedy is obvious. Small worn or 
broken places in the insulation can usually be repaired 
by coating- with pure rubber cement, wrapping with tire 
tape when the cement has dried. 

If the insulation has become dead, cracked or porous, 
perraitting the leakage of current at numerous places 
the wires should be replaced. To mend a broken wire, 
scrape each end clean, wash with gasoline to remove 
any particles of insulating material and splice by 
wrapping the wire once around each other, leaving 
about an inch of wire at each of the loose ends and 
then, with pliers, wrapping each of these ends firmly 
and smoothly around the wire. Then solder the splice 
and insulate by coating with pure rubber cement and 
wrapping well with tire tape. 

The Lighting System. 

Nearly every variety of lighting trouble is directly 
traceable to (a) Loose lighting fixtures, (b) Loose 
battery terminal, (c) Loose connections, (d) Broken 
wire, (e) Broken insulation causing continuous or in- 
termittent short circuit, (f) Work battery, (g) 
Bulbs of incorrect voltage. Lighting troubles there- 
fore should be easily found and quickly remedied. 

Lamp bulbs will become black through use or some 
jar or shock may break a filament. When for any 
reason a bulb must be replaced the car owner should 
be careful to get a bulb of the correct voltage. 

The lamps are frequently grounded in the headlight 

137 



WHAT TO DO 

rim v/hich should therefore be kept pressed firmly in 
place. 

Dirty lenses can be washed with soap and water and 
afterward dried with a soft cloth or chamois that is 
absolutely free from grit. Under no circumstances 
should the car owner attempt to clean mud or dirt from 
his lenses with a newspaper or dry cloth. 

If accumulated dust on the reflector can not be re- 
moved by blowing, it may be removed and the reflector 
polished by rubbing it with a soft, new, perfectly clean 
chamois and a little rouge moistened with a few drops 
of alcohol. Use as little pressure as possible, beginning 
at the outer edge and rubbing toward the center with 
a spiral motion, afterward rubbing with the dry end 
of the charnois in the same manner. .,,. . : , 

To focus the lamps, bring the. car a hundred feet or 
so from a wall and then, one lamp at a time, turn the ad- 
justment screw until there are no rings or dark spots in 
the beam of either lamp. Then take the car out on the 
road and adjust the lamp supporters so that the beams 
converge and strike the road about one hundred and 
fifty feet ahead of the car. 

Ignition System : 

Since all that the average car owner can safely do to 
or for his ignition system is to give it proper care, no 
attempt will be made to describe or define the different 
systems or all the points in which one system differs 
from another. 

The big point of difference in ignition systems is 
that in some, the ignition current is generated by a 
magneto while in others it comes from a battery, dry 
cell or storage. 

All systems are alike in that the ignition current, 

138 



WHAT TO DO 

whatever its source, is conducted from its point of ori- 
gin, through a timer or distributor and thence to the 
spark plugs, from the points of which the inigtion spark 
is delivered into the combustion chambers of the cylin- 
ders. . 

The car owner should find from his instruction book 
what sort of system his car has. 

Magneto Ignition: 

If his car has magneto ignition of any make, the fol- 
lowing is about all he can and should attempt to do in 
order to preserve its efficiency: (1) Keep the magneto 
clean externally and internally, being careful not to dis- 
turb its adjustment in any way ; (2) Keep the interior 
of the breaker housing clean by wiping out occasionally 
with a cloth dampened with gasoline; (3) Remove ac- 
cumulation of carbon, dust or oil on the interruptor with 
a tooth brush dipped in gasoline ; (4) About once a sea- 
son it may become necessary to smooth the interruptor 
points with a fine jewelers file; (5) Religiously fol- 
low manufacturers instructions as to lubrication. 
They generally tell the car owner to put four or five 
drops of good light oil (not engine oil( in oil the cups 
every thousand miles and a single drop of oil on the 
pivot of the interuptor lever every hundred miles, using 
a tooth pick for the purpose and being careful not to get 
any oil on the contact points as it will cause burning 
and pitting; (6) Aside from such necessary care, lay 
off the magneto and all its component parts. Don't 
monkey with it or adjust it and above all, do not at- 
tempt to repair it. 

For cleaning any part of the electrical units use 
GASOLINE rather than kerosene because gasoline 

139 



WHAT TO DO 

leaves a dry surface but when using it the ignition 
switch should be "off" and one of the battery cables 
disconnected from the battery terminal, the end wound 
with friction tape and left off until the job is finished. 
Otherwise a spark and a fire may result. 

Vibrator Spark Coils: If these form a part 
of his ignition system, about all the car owner can do is 
to clean or smooth the contact parts when necessary. 
To do this use a fine flat jewelers file between the sta- 
tionary and movable points. The distance between 
these points should not be more than 1-32 of an inch. 
If they should get out of adjustment, tighten or un- 
tighten the adjustment screw until right distance is 
established. 

Battery Ignition: If his car is equipped with 
battery ignition (as non vibrator coil system) his first 
interest will be in the battery — dry cell or storage — 
from which the ignition current is drawn. For detailed 
information regarding batteries and how to care for 
them, refer to chapter X. 
Points for Care in All Ignition Systems : 

As stated in the beginning, all ignition systems are 
alike in that the ignition current must be conducted 
from its point of origin through a timer or distributor 
and thence to the spark plugs from the points of which 
the ignition spark is delivered into the combustion 
chambers of the cylinders. 

Consequently whatever sort of system he has, the 
car owner will want to give all necessary attention to 
his ignition wiring and connections, his timer or dis- 
tributor and his spark plugs. 

! Wiring and Connections: What is said in the begin- 

140 



WHAT TO DO 

ning of this chapter regarding wiring and connection 
apphes particularly to the ignition system. 
The Timer or Distributor: The Ford timer differs 
importantly from the timers or distributors used in 
other cars. A special chapter has been devoted to it. 
See chapter XI, page 98. 

For timers or distributors of other makes, the im- 
portant points to note are, that, they are clean exter- 
nally and internally, free from excess oil, carbon, dirt 
and moisture. 

The track traveled by the rotor brush should be 
wiped occasionally with a clean rag moistened with 
gasoline and when clean, the track should be given a 
very thin coating of vaseline. If the segments become 
rough, smooth them with fine emery paper, b^ing sure 
that no dust remains on the rotor track. 

Rarely, if ever, should it be necessary to increase the 
tension of the little spring which regulates the pressure 
of the rotor brush against its track. It is bad practice 
to stretch this spring out and increase the tension with 
an idea of securing better contact. The contact is 
usually good enough. Too much will cause excessive 
wear and create friction which will burn the parts af- 
fected . 

If the distributor is kept clean and dry and lubricated 
as required, little trouble will be experienced with it. 
Spark Plugs. 

Terminals should be examined frequently. Keep them 
clean, tight and dry. 

Inasmuch as the cause of misfiring, etc., is most 
frequently located in the spark plugs, it is important 
that these be inspected at least once a month for car- 
bon, adjustment of points and cracked porcelains. Af- 



141 



WHAT TO DO 

ter the plug has been removed, if it can be disassembled, 
the porcelain can be taken off and the carbon removed 
with gasoline on a cloth or stiff tooth brush. The 
points may be polished with a piece of fine emery- 
cloth. In reassembling see that all parts are per- 
fectly dry. The gaps between the points should be 
inspected as long wear may cause them to become so 
wide that the spark will not pass under compression, 
even though it may do so in the open air. For battery 
ignition, the gap should be about equal to the thick- 
ness of a thin dime, much smaller if magneto ignition 
is used. Specifically, for coil ignition the gap should 
be 1-32 of an inch ; for magneto ignition, 1-64 of an 
inch. 

A defective spark plug may sometimes be the cause 
of some trouble which has been attributed to something 
else. A crack in the porcelain which will unfit the 
plug for service may be too small for detection even 
when suspected. For this reason it will be well to 
test the plugs before removing them to be cleaned. 
This may be done by opening the relief cocks, one at 
a time, with the engine running. If any cylinder reg- 
ularly produces a hiss but no flame, the plug may be 
suspected but not yet condemned inasmuch as a lack 
of ignition may be due to other causes. Take the 
plug out. clean it and if no defect can be found, polish 
the points and spread them about 1-8 of an inch apart. 
Attach the wire, start thq engine and see if a good 
spark jumps from point to point. If it does the plug 
itself is o.k. and after the proper adjustment of points 
is restored, it can be put back in service. 

If the cylinder still fails to show flame, the trouble 
can be looked for elsewhere. If the plug does not show 

142 



WHAT TO DO 

a good spark, exchange positions with some other plug 
that is known to be o.k. If that plug shows a good 
spark, the first plug is surely defective. If, however, 
the second plug does not spark, the trouble should be 
sought elsewhere. 

When it becomes necessary to buy another plug, be 
sure that it is the correct type and length. If the dis- 
carded plug was one of the; set which came with the 
car, one can do no better than to buy one exactly like it 

The Generator: 

This is the name given in motoring parlance to the 
dynamo which converts part of the mechanical power 
of the engine into electric current which flowing into 
and charging the batteries is used, as needed, to light 
the lamps, turn over the starter and also, in some sys- 
tems, to furnish the ignition current. 

The generator is a self contained and independent ex- 
cept that in some systems the generator and the starter 
are built into one machine. 

Ordinarily the generator will perform its functions 
v/ithout any particular care or attention from the car 
owner. About all the routine care that the generator 
requires is to keep it lubricated. About every thousand 
miles, a few drops of light or medium oil (as specified 
by the manufacturer) should be placed in the oil cups, 
observing to see that the oil ducts leading to the bear- 
ings are open and being careful to see that afterwards, 
the cups are closed to prevent entrance of dust, etc. 

No other lubrication is required. The graphite in the 
brushes lubricates as well as conducts. Oil or grease on 
the commutator will practically ruin the conductivity 
of the brushes. 

If, as infrequently happens, the generator should 

143 



WHAT TO DO 

cease to function properly, the fact will be revealed by 
the ammeter or indicator registering "discharge" or 
"neutral" when "charge" should be indicated, or by the 
battery discharging too quickly. 

This, however, does not quite prove that the genera- 
tor is at fault. Test it by holding a screw driver on the 
terminals. If a good spark is evident when the connec- 
tion is broken, the generator is not at fault and the 
trouble will be found in the connections or wiring be- 
tween the generator and the battery or between the 
battery and the ammeter. 

If the trouble is in the generator, it will most likely 
be found in the brushes or their holders or in the com- 
mutator. In looking for trouble in the brushes or brush 
holders see (1) that the brushes are not so badly worn 
or that the springs have become so weak that the 
brushes are not making proper contact. In which case 
they should be replaced. See (2) if accumulated dirt is 
causing brushes to stick and if so, clean with gasoline, 
being sure to return each brush to the holder from 
which it was removed. 

In looking for trouble in the commutator, see (1) if 
it is dull or dirty and, if so, clean by putting a little oil 
on a cloth and holding it against the commutator while 
it is running, being sure afterward to remove all of the 
remaining oil. 

Any other commutator trouble had better be left to 
the experienced workman. Indeed, this advice might 
well apply to any work on any part of the generator or 
the cut out or current regulator, unless the car owner 
has well founded confidence in his own ability. 
Starter: 

Due alike to its inaccessible location and the nature 

144 



WHAT TO DO 

of its construction, there is little the car owner can do 
either in caring for, adjusting or repairing the starter. 
Indeed, there are few points where the care is needed 
and if any repairs or adjustments should ever be neces- 
sary, the car owner will hardly be competent to make 
them. 

Care of the starter begins with its use and in this, 
the principal point to remember is that the starter 
pedal or button should be released the instant the 
en.gine picks up. 

Sometimes the starting motor continues to run after 
the pedal or button is released, this indicates a weak- 
ness in the spring governing the return and about the 
only remedy is to replace it with a new one. 

All terminals and switch connections should be kept 
clean and tight. No oil should ever be permitted to get 
on the blades of the contact switch. The starter should 
be lubricated as specified by the manufacturer. 

Starting troubles are usually located elsewhere than 
in the starter. For instance, if the starting motor will 
not run, the trouble is most likely due to a very weak 
battery, to bad battery connections, to a short circuit 
in the wiring or to bad contact between the fixed con- 
tacts and the blades of the starting switch. If the trou- 
ble is the last named, the blades can be sprung further 
apart. The remedy for the other causes named is ob- 
vious. 

If the seat of the trouble is not found in any of the 
above possible causes the car owner can reluctantly con- 
clude that something is wrong with the starter itself 
and he should ask his service station to remedy it. 



145 



WHAT TO DO 



CHAPTER XXI 



WHAT A MOTORIST SHOULD KNOW 
ABOUT THE BEARINGS IN HIS CAR 

By H. T. Dieterich, Bearings Service Co. 

Manufacturers appreciating the necessity for con-, 
stant and proper functioning of anti-friction bearings 
have so engineered and designed these units that when 
when given proper care, they will last the full life of the 
car. However, being for the most part hidden in the 
mechanism, bearings are often never seen by the aver- 
age owner and as a general rule, he does not give them 
the attention and care that he should. 

Lack of lubrication is really the cause of the vast 
majority of bearing failures. The motorist should make 
sure when his new car is delivered to him that the bear- 
ings have all been supplied with lubricant. He should 
also see that there is a clear passageway from the 
grease and oil cups to the bearings and at regular inter- 
vals afterwards, exercise good common sense in making 
sure that these important parts are at all times prop- 
erly lubricated. It is well to remember that grease is 
cheaper than metal. 

Only the purest mineral oils and greases should be 
used in lubricating anti-friction bearings. When bear- 
ings are enclosed and operating at high speed under 
small loads a light oil may be used; in other installa- 
tions, a good light grease or medium grease is more sat- 
isfactory. Avoid carelessness in cleaning the bearings 

146 



WHAT TO DO 

for inspection after removal. If dirty gasoline or kero- 
sene is used the grit and dirt is usually washed into, 
rather than out of, the bearing. One of the most effi- 
cient methods of cleaning bearings is to dip them in a 
pail of boiling water containing a cup full of washing 
soda. This solution will cut the grease and oil and re- 
move any grit or dirt that may be present. If the bear- 
ing is to be used again, it should be dipped in kerosene 
immediately after the removal from the washing fluid. 
This will remove the cleaning solution. It should then 
be packed in grease. 

If a bearing is correctly mounted, kept in alignment, 
free from grit and dirt, and well lubricated, it will al- 
ways give satisfactory service. If a car has had a 
severe shock of some sort — say from an accident — later 
trouble can be prevented by having the bearings in- 
spected to make sure that they have not been injured 
in any way. Frequently, bearings are ruined by care- 
lessness on the part of mechanics in removing them. 
In removing the races of press fit bearings a puller 
should be used, if available. The force of the puller 
should be directed against the sticking races. If prying 
or driving is necessary, care should be taken that the 
force is not applied direct to the free race and transmit- 
ted thus thru the balls or rollers to the sticking race. If 
driving is necessary a piece of wood or brass should be 
used in conjunction with a babbit hammer or mallet so 
that the blows, while sufficient to loosen the race, will 
not be hard enough to cause possible injury to any part. 

Instructions on the care necessary to remove a bear- 
ing should similarly apply when it is to be replaced. 
Bearing outer races are usually press fit in the hous- 
ings. The inner races are, in general, a light drive fit 

147 



WHAT TO DO 

on the shaft. The pressure necessary to replace the 
bearing should, as when removing, be applied directly 
to the sticking race. In replacing the inner race of a 
bearing consisting of two or more parts as in the case 
of Timken and Hyatt Bearings or a bearing of a single 
unit type, such as manufactured by the New Departure 
Manufacturing Company, a piece of tubing just large 
enough to fit over the shaft and fasten against the in- 
ner race is a practical tool to use. In forcing the bear- 
ing into position with this tool, the pressure is applied 
in such a way as to distribute the force equally over the 
race thus preventing a tendency to wedge. The condi- 
tion of the bearing housing and shaft is a matter which 
should be watched carefully when replacing bearmgs. 
The housing if worn will allow the bearing to fit loosely 
and play will be noticeable. If this condition exists, a 
new housing should be secured or possibly the old hous- 
ing may be bushed. Shims, however, should never be 
used. The inner race being generally a light press fit 
on the shaft if too tight and forced, might throw the 
whole bearing out of alignment thus causing it to burn 
In a case of this kind, the shaft should be turned down; 
never grind down or narrow the outer circumference of 
a bearing in an attempt to make it fit the housing or 
shaft. Annular ball bearings cannot be adjusted, this 
naturally means that if such a bearing is worn, it should 
be replaced with a new one. At first thot, it might 
seem as tho annular ball bearing equipment is conse- 
quently expensive to maintain. However, this is not 
true, as a bearing of this type will give unlimited ser- 
vice if properly installed and cared for. 

Hyatt bearings are not adjustable and when wear 

148 



WHAT TO DO 

occurs the worn parts must be replaced. A complete 
Hyatt bearing may be one or a combination of two or 
three parts. For example, a roller assembly and an 
inner race may in some cases, constitute a complete 
Hyatt bearing of a given number ; or a roller assembly 
and an outer race may be a complete bearing. Some 
Hyatt bearings however, consist of all three parts, i. e. 
inner race, roller assembly and outer race, again in 
other cases, the roller assembly only may be used, the 
shaft and housing taking the place of the inner and 
outer races respectively. It is not always necessary to 
replace a Hyatt bearing completely where only one of 
the parts is found to be worn. A new inner race, for 
example, may be used with the old roller assembly, 
provided of course the latter is in good condition. Ex- 
amination should show whether the surface of the 
races and rollers are smooth and in good condition. 
Particular attention should be given to the cage which 
contains the rollers and keeps them in alignment. The 
cage should be rigid and if found to be racked or out of 
shape in any way, the entire roller assembly should be 
replaced with a new one. 

When reinstalling, care should be used not to squeeze 
the cage as it is essential that the cage containing the 
rollers rotate freely which is not possible when it is 
jammed. Care should also be taken to see that the set- 
screw, which is used on some Hyatt bearings, does not 
project thru the race thus interfering with the opera- 
tion of the rollers. Timken bearing on the other hand, 
are adjustable and the following method should be prac- 
ticed when adjusting them. After packing the bearing 
with grease, screw the cone and roller assembly on the 
shaft tightly against the cup or race being careful, 

149 



WHAT TO DO 

however, not to exert too much pressure. The pressure 
should only be sufficient to cause the bearing to bind 
slightly and the shaft or wheel should be rotated to see 
that it does not stick at any point. The cone and roller 
assembly should then be backed off so that the shaft or 
Wheel turns freely but not enough to cause any percep- 
tible end play. The locking device should then be se- 
cured without disturbing the adjustment. 

A point to be considered when replacing inner front 
wheel bearings is the careful installation of the dust 
ring which should be backed solidly on the spindle. Care 
should also be given to the installation of the cup in the 
housing. The cup must be seated firmly and the ex- 
actness of the seating checked by measuring the dis- 
tance all the way around, from the edge of the cup to 
the lip of the housing. These distances should be equal, 
otherwise the cup Will not be squarely seated and will 
be out of alignment with the cone and roller assembly. 

There are in the main, three classes of bearing instal- 
lation. The first includes bearings on the fan shaft, 
clutch, starting motor, steering gear, etc., but these 
need not be considered because at these points bearings 
are not usually put to any severe test and the initial 
cost and convenience of installation become the determ- 
ining factors. The second class includes transmissions, 
pinion shafts or worms, and differentials where ex- 
tremely important shafts and gears are supported by 
anti-friction units. Even slight wear in the bearings at 
these points unless corrected, allows the shaft to drop 
out of true alignment and thus throws the gears out of 
perfect mesh. A loss of power and excessive wear of 
the gears inevitably follows the use of inferior or worn 
bearings at these points. The third class includes the 

150 



WHAT TO DO 

wheel hubs, where the bearings have to work under the 
tremendous pressure of the car's weight and are sub- 
jected to every shock and all vibrations resulting from 
traveling over rough roads. Bearings not properly- 
maintained at wheel hubs, pinions and worms, will soon 
show the evil effects of carelessness on the part of the 
mechanic or motorist. This is also true with trans- 
mission and differential bearings, altho to a less extent. 
These evil effects will not be apparent alone in the bear- 
ings themselves but will also show up in the perform- 
ance of the gears, the accurate adjustment of which 
may be destroyed. 

The big factor in the satisfactory performance of 
bearings in a car is the human element. That of course 
means the person driving the car. It is a fact that a 
driver can ruin the gears of his car thru failure to drive 
with a minimum amount of gear clashing and in an- 
alyzing the causes of bearing failure the driver of a car 
or truck should give this point careful consideration. 
In sliding gears, especially when operated by an inex- 
perienced person, there is a constant clashing when 
changing gears which often chips off particles of metal 
of the gear teeth. These small pieces of metal fall into 
the lubricant, are churned around and oft times find 
their way into the bearing ball races or retainers. Thus 
bearing failure is inevitable. Motorists should realize 
that a thoro cleaning out of the transmission case to 
remove the grease that may contain many minute metal 
particles and the replenishing with clean fresh lubri- 
cant is necessary to proper bearing performance. 

The differential housing also needs like attention. 
Hubs seldom give trouble, and as a result they are gen- 
erally inspected only about once a year, when more fre- 

151 



WHAT TO DO 

quent inspection would prove worth while especially 
when the car is in constant hard service. The felt 
packings at the hubs, especially those in the front 
wheels, wear out, road grit and water finding its way 
into the hub interior. Inspect and oil the bearings in 
your car occasionally even tho they do not complain of 
neglect by groaning and squeaking. 



152 



WH4T TO DO 



CHAPTER XXII 

CARE OF THE STEERING GEAR 

One of the parts of the car most frequently neglect- 
ed is the steering mechanism. Many car owners do 
not realize how continuous is the motion of the gears 
or how great the strain imposed during every minute 
the car is in motion and consequently pay little at- 
tention, if any, to their steering gear unless play or 
back-lash becomes so excessive as to absolutely de- 
mand attention and adjustment. 

If early wear and consequent repair bills — to say 
nothing of danger through accident — is to be avoided, 
the steering mechanism should be occasionally in- 
spected, kept in proper adjustment and its gears and 
bearings lubricated freely and frequently. 

The lubrication points and methods provided for 
lubrication vary with the different makes of cars and 
the different types of steering apparatus but it may 
be taken as a rule, here as elsewhere, that every mov- 
ing part should be kept covered with a wear-prevent- 
ing film of oil. And, do not be too economical in the 
amount of lubricant applied. Inasmuch as there is 
no pumping action in these gears, the lubricant must 
be packed in and kept packed in. Follow the speci- 
fications of the manufacturer "as to the lubricant to 
use but you will make no great mistake if you lubri- 
cate your steering gear twice as often as he recom- 
mends. 

Ordinarily a long period of service will elapse be- 

153 



WHAT TO DO 

fore the steering- gear will require any adjustment 
and the need of adjustment will g-enerally be made 
apparent by lost motion or excessive play in the steer- 
ing wheel. The amount of play that is allowed will de- 
pend somewhat on the preference of the driver. Some 
play is desirable but too much makes dang-erous 
steering. When the play amounts to as much as two 
inches it should be adjusted. 

To do this,, jack up the front wheels, manipulate 
the steering wheel, testing and observing at each con- 
nection or bearing. The method of adjustment will 
vary with the type of steering apparatus and will be 
described in detail in the Instruction book issued by 
the manufacturer of the car. Where the wear has 
been so excessive as to require new bushings, while 
the car owner can put these in, he will usually prefer 
to have them inserted by a mechanic. 

The car owner should be sure, before making" any 
adjustment, that the fault is really in the steering 
mechanism. Lost motion which may be attributed 
to some part of the steering" mechanism, is sometimes 
due to a "wobble' or looseness in the front wheels. 

To test for this, first drive a block of wood between 
the knuckle and the axle and then test the wheel for 
looseness by taking hold of it at top and bottom or at 
each side and endeavoring" to move it from side to 
side. If there is no looseness, the fault is in the 
knuckle pin and its bushings which probably call for 
new bushings. If looseness is apparent, the trouble 
is probably in the wheel bearings. 



154 



WHAT TO DO 



CHAPTER XXIII 

THE CARE OF THE SPRINGS 

Trouble of various kinds and various degrees of se- 
riousness may result from lack of attention to the 
springs and to the bolts, clips and fastenings by 
which these are attached to the axles. 

At least once a week, the bolts should be examined 
and, if a tendency to looseness is observed, tightened. 
Loose spring clips may not only cause the wheels to 
get out of alignment but are also the principal cause 
of broken springs. 

Moisture must be prevented from getting between 
the leaves. Moisture will invaribly cause rust and 
rusty springs cannot move upon each other as they 
must if they are to afford the resiliency and riding 
comfort for which they were provided. Keep mois- 
ture out by frequent (some manufacturers say, daily) 
lubrication of the leaves. 

On some cars this is provided for by o^l cups or 
some sort of arrangement to draw the oil between the 
leaves by capillary attraction. If no such means 
are provided, it can be accomplished to a large degree, 
at least, by squirting oil on the edges of the leaves, or 
better still, the car can be jacked up (not the 
wheels) until the pressure is off the springs, and the 

155 



WHAT TO DO 

leaves pried apart with a screw driver and graphite 
grease forced well between them. 

On weekly inspection for loose bolts and clips, look 
also for cracked leaves. If rust has been permitted 
to accumulate between the leaves, the spring becomes 
for all practical purposes, as if they were solid pieces. 
They should be taken apart, sandpapered thoroughly 
and well covered with graphite grease. 

New cars sometimes come from the factory with the 
holes in the grease cups provided for the spring 
shackle bolts clogged up with enamel. On buying a 
new car an examination should be made to see if this 
is the case and the holes opened up so that the grease 
can get out. 

If the car owner pays proper attention to his 
springs, he will not only eliminate the most common 
cause for squeaks but will also be able to point out, 
after long service, that "she rides just like a new car," 



156 



WHAT TO DO 



CHAPTER XXIV 



THE CARE OF TIRES— HOW TO GET 
MOST MILEAGE 

Tire expense amounts to about one-third of the 
total expense of running an automobile — the other 
two-thirds being about equally divided between gas, 
oil, maintenance and depreciation of the car itself. 

Usually a car-owner knows that a certain degree 
of fuel economy can be achieved by proper adjust- 
ments and careful driving; many car owners realize 
that careful driving and intelligent care of the car 
will very greatly reduce the cost of maintenance and 
depreciation, but very few give any real thought to 
their tires or realize how this large part of their 
total operation expense can be reduced. 

Tire economy begins with tire selection. Many a 
car owner who would not consider buying other than 
standard supplies for his office, store or factory will 
fall for the "reduced prices" and "special discounts" 
and the trick guarantee of the dealer in "gyp" or un- 
known brands of tires. 

To do this is to speculate with the smallest possible 
chances of success — to gamble with "all odds in favor 
of the house." 

Here is a basic fact. A dollar will buy just so 
much in tire building material and go just so far in 
paying tire builders' wages. Can any thinking man 

157 



WHAT TO DO 

imagine that the manufacturer of the "gyp" tire has 
any buying advantage or knows any manufacturing 
short cuts that would enable him to turn out a quality 
tire for less money than the reputable tire manu- 
facturers? 

Do not be deceived ! The price of the ''gyp" tire 
indicates that the quality has been cut by the use of 
cheap fabric and poor quality rubber loaded with 
adulterants — made by unskilled labor without inspec- 
tion for hidden imperfections and weaknesses. Or, 
as often the case, such tires are made from old car- 
casses collected from junk dealers, re-lined, covered 
with a fine looking tread, painted up and sold for new 
tires at a "startling reduction." 

The reputable tire manufacturers spend thousands 
of dollars on inspection of materials and finished 
goods to assure the car owner of dependable mer- 
chandise. 

A "guarantee" is not always a guaranty. It is 
seldom that big value can be bought at a "big dis- 
count." Real value is seldom advertised in red ink. 
The bigger the "gyp" guarantee, the bigger— and 
sooner — the blow out. 

"Seconds" mean nothing more than second class, or 
more often, "no class." If the manufacturer is not 
willing to take a chance on the service such a tire will 
give, why should the car owner? 

Economy in tire buying does not come from looking 
at the price tag but at the name over the dealer's 
door, and the name of the manufacturer. If the 
dealer is well annd favorably known — if the manu- 
facturer is of well-known standing and responsibility 
— then and then only the car owner is assured of full 

158 



WHAT TO DO 

tire value, dependable service and sure protection 
against possible defects. 

But no tire, however well or honestly made, is 
abuse-proof. It is a common saying among the trade 
that car owners generally get just about one-half the 
mileage out of tires that the manufacturers build into 
them. The car owner generally ruins the tire with 
carelessness or abuse and then blames the manu- 
• facturer. 

Nearly every tire of standard make, unless driven 
-in country where the roads are exceptionally bad, 
will far outrun its mileage adjustment basis if given 
proper attention. 

Tire mileage will be big and tire troubles will be 
few if the following suggestions are heeded. 

Use care in applying your tires. First see that 
the rim is cleaned and all rust, dirt and foreign 
matter is removed. Watch the sides of the rim — see 
that they do not remain flattened due to constant 
pounding on the road. Your dealer can tell you 
where to have them straightened out. Be sure to use 
a flap in all but clincher tires and so prevent tube 
pinching. 

Keep tires inflated. Buy a tire gauge. At fre- 
quent intervals test the pressure of each tire, even if 
it does SEEM properly rounded out. The pressure 
should T^ot be less than fifteen pounds per square inch 
of tire section — more if the car is carrying a load, 
which at this pressure causes the tire to flatten appre- 
ciably. Running a tire under-inflated will cause in- 
ternal friction and heat which will soon cause the 
layers of fabric to separate. Furthermore, a fully in- 
flated tire presents a smaller wearing surface to the 

159 



WHAT TO DO 

road and is less susceptible to punctures and road 
wear. 

Cuts in side wall or tread should be repaired at 
once. It is a good plan to frequently look for these 
when the car is brought in. If neglected they admit 
water and sand which under pressure with continued 
use, will cause the cut to increase in size — sand 
blisters will form and the tread comes loose for a 
considerable distance. Stop cuts as quickly as they 
are discovered. Small cuts can be cured with tire 
dough, cure cut, or any of the similar preparations 
put up for this purpose by tire manufacturers. 
Larger cuts should be repaired by a competent vul- 
canizer. Attention to tread and sidewall cuts can 
easily result in one-third longer life to the tire. 

Avoid Tire Fillers, Reliners and Puncture Proof 
Contrivances. So far there has never been a substi- 
tute developed to replace the air used in a pneumatic 
automobile tire, although a number of tire fillers, 
puncture proof tubes, reliners and such are on the 
market. The use of these parts does just one thing — 
shorten the life of your tires due to increased weight, 
also through the additional heat annd i^'riotion de- 
veloped by the constant flexing of the carcass from 
road contact. Furthermore, all tire manufacturers 
waive their guarantee when substitutes for air are 
used in their tires. So why take chances? 

Don't allow oil, grease or acid to remain on the 
tires. If road contact with any of these is unavoid- 
able, wash the tires as soon as possible with =;oap and 
water. Grease is the natural enemy of rubber. If 
it is left on the tires, damage will surely result. For 

160 



WHAT TO DO 

the same reason be sure the car does not stand on a 
greasy garage floor. 

In putting in tubes always see that the inside 
of the casing is free from sand or other foreign mat- 
ter, dust tube and inside of casing freely with 
powdered mica and see that the flap is smoothly ad- 
justed. Do not carry spare tubes in boxes as shipped 
by the manufacturers, for the action of the car will 
chafe them. Secure a tube bag from your dealer — 
they are made for this purpose. 

Change position of tires frequently. Rear tires 
wear more rapidly than front tires. Wear can be 
equalized by occasionally exchanging positions of all 
tires. 

Keep spare tires covered. Tires do not deteriorate 
from age as rapidly as from exposure to light, 
moisture and varying degrees of temperature. The 
amount of protection afforded by tire covers make it 
real economy to use them. If tires are stored, keep 
them in a cool, dry, dark place. 

Look out for bent fenders or projecting fender 
bolts. Sometimes in going over a bump or when the 
car is heavily loaded, these will cut and gouge the 
tread, inflicting serious damage. 

Use "Over-size Tires." This will mean a larger 
volume of air between the car and the road, thus 
giving greater protection against vibration and con- 
sequently more riding comfort. 

Be sure the wheels are properly aligned. Other- 
wise the tire will have a sidewise drag that will soon 
grind off the tread. 

Keep the brakes equalized. If one brake grips 
harder and quicker than the other, that wheel will 

161 



IV HA 7' TO DO 

have to do most of the work in stopping the car and 
the wheel will slide with obvious results to the tire. 

Keep out of the car tracks. Otherwise excessive 
wear of the thinner side-wall of the tire will result. 
Furthermore, iron splinters on the rail edges, sharp 
switch points, frogs, etc., may cause serious cuts. 
There is also the danger of skidding on wet rails. 

Wild-west stops," approaching the stopping place 
at speed and then stopping the car with a sudden 
application of the brakes and consequent sliding of 
the wheels is something no tire was made to stand. 

Avoid spinning the wheels in mud or sand. A few 
minutes of this can cause more wear than miles of 
ordinary use. 

Use chains only when absolutely necessary and be 
sure they are properly applied. Be sure the rounded 
side of the links lay smooth on the tire and that the 
chain does not fit sngly, otherwise damage will result. 

Ke.ep away from the curb. The result of driving 
along-side the curb so closely as to grind the tires 
against the concrete is too obvious to require descrip- 
tion. 

Do not run on a flat tire. Running "flat" is very 
expensive mileage for even a short distance. Better 
run on the rim at slow speed, or better still, carry 
one or even two inflated spares for use when needed. 
Do not let the car stand on a flat tire over night. 

Tire troubles on the road can be lessened by carry- 
ing at least one good inside blow out patch, a cold 
patch tube repair kit, a can of tire putty or cure cut, 
a tube of rubber cement, a can of mica and a box of 
valve insides, as well as a spare tire and one or two 
extra tubes. 

162 



WHAT TO DO 



CHAPTER XXV 

KEEPING THE CAR SPICK AND SPAN 

Every car owner wants to preserve the original 
spick and span appearance of his car, either from a 
personal pride or a desire to maintain its re-sale 
value. It is seldom that a re-paint job has the 
"classy" look of the original finish and many a time 
a poor appearance has knocked several hundred dol- 
lars off the selling price of a car which otherwise was 
in excellent condition. Of course long exposure to 
sun and rain and wind and the washing necessary to 
remove the inevitable mud and dust will, in time, kill 
the lustre, but with care a car can be kept looking 
sleek and shiny for a long time. 

Once a week the car should be given a thorough 
cleaning and polishing. This should begin with the 
top. A mohair top can be brushed. If it becomes 
discolored its appearance can be renewed by the use 
of some of the standard preparations sold for that 
purpose. An imitation leather top should be dusted 
off and can then be washed with clean tepid water 
to which a little castile soap has been added, after 
which it should be rinsed with clean water and dried 
with a soft chamois or clean cloth. The inside of the 
top can be brushed with a whisk broom or stiff clothes 
brush. In folding, care should be taken that the 
fabric is not pinched between any of the bows. A 

163 



WHAT TO DO 

folded top should always be protected with a dust 

cover. 

. Small breaks or ripped places in the lining of the 

top should be repaired as soon as noticed. Continued 

use will make the tear bigger. 

If the curtains are lined with cloth, the fabric can 
be cleaned by thorough brushing with a stiff brush or 
whisk broom. Accumulated dirt and dust can be re- 
moved from the exterior with a damp cloth after 
which it can be cleaned more thoroughly by washing 
with a cloth and tepid water to which has been added 
a little mild soap. After drying thoroughly with a 
soft cloth, wipe with a cloth dampened with a very 
few drops of body polish. Where curtains can be 
carried rolled they should never be folded as repeated 
foldings along the same line will tend to break the 
fabric. 

Leather or imitation leather upholstery can be 
cleaned with a cloth rung out of mildly soapy tepid 
water. If something stronger is needed to cut any 
grease add a few drops of ammonia, afterwards wip- 
ing off with cloth wrung out of clean water and 
drying thoroughly. Never use gasoline. 

Cloth upholstery can be cleaned by thorough 
brushing and wiping off, afterwards, with cloth 
wrung out of tepid water to which a few drops of 
ammonia has been added. Grease spots can be re- 
moved by rubbing with cloth dampened with cnloro- 
form. The use of gasoline for this purpose will make 
a "circle" which is not the case when chloroform 
is used. _ 

Seat covers add to the appearance of most cars and 
will pay for their cost in preserving the upholstery. 

164 



WHAT TO DO 

When dirty, they can be washed at home or sent to 
a cleaning establishment. 

The secret in washing a car so that the original 
gloss will be preserved begins with the quantity of 
water used, rather than the pressure with which it is 
applied. A hose, of course, is best and the nozzle 
should be first removed. If the water is applied 
under pressure the force of the water dislodges par- 
ticles of grit which, carried along with the water, 
grinds off the lustre with pretty much the same action 
as a sand-blast. 

Do not wash the car any oftener than is necessary. 
When it must be washed, go over the whole car with 
the hose slowly, giving the water plenty of time to 
soak into and loosen the mud, wait fifteen or twenty 
minutes and go over it again when all the dirt — unless 
there is some mud which is greasy — will slip off. 
Greasy mud and also particles of asphalt or tar can 
be removed with a few drops of kerosene. Very little 
is needed and it should be removed as quickly as it 
has served its purpose. 

After the mud is removed, if any grease spots re- 
main, they can be removed with soap suds and a 
sponge or soft cloth. Use nothing but a mild soap 
and do not rub hard, and afterwards rinse with clean 
water. 

After washing the car do not permit the water to 
dry on it as this will leave water spots. Go over the 
car and wipe dry with a very soft chamois or soft 
cloth which is free from lint. Whatever is used for 
this purpose be sure it is absolutely soft and clean 
and free from grit. Do not apply more pressure than 
can be avoided and do not rub with a circular motion 

165 



WHAT TO DO 

— follow straight lines always. After the car is thor- 
oughly dry it can be gone over with a body polish if 
desired, of which there are many standard prepara- 
tions on the market. In selecting a polish the owner 
should select one that is free from oil. It is prac- 
tically impossible to wipe off all the oil content of 
an oily polish and that which remains will catch and 
retain dust and is likely to permanently injure the 
finish. 

The under part of the car should not be neglected. 
Here pressure can be used to remove mud and as 
mud in that part is more likely to be greasy, it may 
be necessary to use a pail of soap suds and sponge. 

Never allow water to get on the hood while it is 
hot as this will cause spots and probably also crack 
the finish. Also be very sure not to allow water to 
get inside the hood for obvious reasons. 

Never allow mud to harden on the car as it will 
leave spots which will be slow in coming off and may 
also dull the lustre. Wash all the mud off the car 
as quickly as possible even if a more thorough clean- 
ing is postponed. 

Never use a feather duster to dust off the car as it 
only beats the dust into the finish and will also likely 
carry grit which will scratch the finish. For dust- 
ing a soft cloth with a few drops of body polish 
is best. 

Touch the finish lightly. A varnished surface is not 
in any way like a brass lamp or any metal surface. 
Pressure is always harmful. 

If it is necessary to wash the radiator wash with 

166 



WHAT TO DO 

the hose from the inside out — never from the out- 
side in. 

If caught in a rain storm sponge off the hood as 
soon as possible. Rain drops falling on a hot metal 
surface will make spots and dull the lustre if allowed 
to remain. 

Many good polishes are on the market. If the car 
owner wants to make his own polish, one which is 
recommended by several authorities is as follows : 

Turpentine 1 gal. 

Parafine oil 1 pt. 

Oil Citronella 31/2 ozs. 

Oil Cedar ly^ ozs. 

This preparation, it is said, will remove grease, 
rain and mud spots. Before application the car must 
be thoroughly dry and it should be put on with a 
soft cloth and should be rubbed perfectly dry to pre- 
vent dust from collecting. 

Body scratches or breaks in the enamel on any 
part which exposes the metal should be filled in with 
paint or enamel as soon as possible. 

Nickel plated parts can be cleaned with any good 
silver polish. For cleaning and polishing brass many 
standard preparations are obtainable. Aluminum 
can be brightened by washing with a solution of hypo- 
sulphate of soda, which should afterward be washed 
off. A mixture of equal parts of soapy water and 
wood alcohol will effectively clean windows. Tissue 
paper is best for polishing them afterward. 

Windshields can be kept clear in rainy or snowy 
weather by washing them in a solution containing two 
ounces of water, two drams of table salt and four 

167 



iVHAT TO DO 

ounces of glycerin. Apply from the top to the bottom 
in straight lines. 

Every time the car owner goes over his car it should 
be the occasion for a search everywhere for loose 
bolts, nuts, washers and pins. Continued looseness 
will not only mean excessive wear but also likely re- 
sult in the loss of some part that will cause an ex- 
pensive repair later on, if not im.mediately and prob- 
ably serious trouble. 

Furthermore, looseness, even when unlikely to re- 
sult in immediate or ultimate damage, will, at all 
events, cause rattles and squeaks which no car owner 
wants. Squeaky door hinges can be cured by lubrica- 
tion with a mixture of dry graphite and oil. The 
same mixture can also be used with good effect on 
thp hood lacings. Loose doors can be remedied by 
making small buffers of "tire dough" or "Cure cut" 
used for repairing cuts in tires. 

Loose fender bolts cause many a rattle for which 
the remedy is obvious. Furthermore, a loose fender 
bolt is an invitation for fender-breaks which will get 
worse and worse unless they are immediately welded. 

Many a car owner has blamed the tire manufac- 
turer for rim cut tires when it was the condition of 
the rim rather than a defect in the tire that caused 
the trouble. Through rust and wear the edge of the 
rim (particularly the clinches type) may assume a 
knife like sharpness and the result is a "rim-cut" for 
which the tire manufacturer is in no way to blame. 
At least once each season the tires should be removed 
and all rust thoroughly removed with sand paper. 
If the edges have become sharp, as mentioned above, 
they should be rounded off with a file. 

168 



WHAT TO DO 



CHAPTER XXVI 



TOPS AND UPHOLSTERY 

How long to Prolong Their Life — How to Preserve or 
Renew Their Appearance — Hints on Replacement. 

By A. H. Berwold, E. I. du Pont de Nemours & Co., Inc., 
Wilmington, Del. 

Stand on any corner and study the cars that pass. 
What impresses you most? Is it not the unsightly ap- 
pearance of the great majority of the collapsible tops 
that you see? 

Can the attractiveness of these tops be restored? 
In some cases, yes, to a limited extent. In most cases 
replacement is the only remedy. Could these tops have 
been kept in better condition ? We are sure of it. 

In the first place it is only frank to say that no type 
of fabric yet produced entirely meets the severe re- 
quirements of service on a collapsible top. The great 
majority of automobile manufacturers and top makers 
have found the rubber type of top material the most 
satisfactory covering available, and as this material is 
in such general use we will assume that your top is 
made of it. 

There is a wide-spread custom among careful car 
owners to keep their tops up permanently. We approve 
this as a splendid prevention of most of the ills that 
befall the collapsible top. The frequent raising and 
lowering of a top, even if done carefully, and the flexing 

169 



WHAT TO DO 

and chafing of the material when the top is folded will 
lessen the attractiveness and shorten the life of a top 
no matter what it is made of. Leaving the top up 
permanently keeps it unwrinkled and shapely. Many 
motorists find that the raised top is also a welcome pro- 
tection from sun and dust. 

Dust and mud should be sponged off your top fre- 
quently and the material wiped dry to prevent streak- 
ing. Once the dirt on your top becomes "set" you will 
find it most difficult to remove. 

Gasoline, tar, grease and all forms of oil should be 
kept away from your top and removed promptly and 
thoroughly should they come in contact with it. Oil 
spots, and dissolves rubber very quickly. 

When the top fabric becomes dull or discolored re- 
finish with a good top renewer. This will restore the 
glossy black finish with very little labor or expense. 

If the top sags, an expert top maker can restretch it 
for you. Don't try this yourself. 

Roll or fold the curtains carefully after using. Store 
them in the top or under the seat without any weight 
upon them. 

Flexible windows should be cleaned occasionally with 
a mild soap and water. When badly stained try any 
cleaning cream made for use on pyralin and celluloid. 

Replace broken windows promptly. Nothing makes 
a car more unsightly than broken windows in the back 
or sides. The cost of new windows is slight considering 
the immense improvement they make. 

When Your Car Needs a New Top — Go to a responsi- 
ble top maker and have him use a standard grade of 

Keep the car in the garage when not in use. 

170 



WHAT TO DO 

rubber top material made and guaranteed by a manu- 
facturer whom you know to be reliable. 

Pay for and insist on getting first quality material 
not "seconds." You can't afford to have the job done 
over again by trying to save a few dollars on it. 

Double texture top fabrics are by far the most sat- 
isfactory. They have a veneer-like strength and are 
doubly waterproof because of the impervious adhesive 
used between the two plies of fabric. This keeps the 
water out even if the rubberized surface becomes 
cracked or checked. 

Double texture fabrics stretch uniformly and keep 
their shape better so that the top maker can turn out a 
smarter top with them. The extra cost is not great. 

Single texture material is entirely satisfactory for 
side curtains in which flexible windows are used. If 
glass windows are used, the double texture will give it 
better support. 

Perhaps you would like to consider changing from a 
collapsible to a rigid top so as to make your car really 
distinctive and elegant. In that case you should ask 
your top maker about the Craftsman (California type) 
Top which is now so popular. 

The Craftsman Top — This is the solid frame, perma- 
nent top that originated in California and is now made 
by good shops in all sections. 

This type of top is built with a strong, rigid, wooden 
framework ironed into the body of the car. This frame- 
work is padded and covered with a heavy, weatherproof 
material in any color or color combination desired. 
The shape of the finished top conforms to the lines of 
the car. 

In this top the back and side windows are of heavy 

171 



WHAT TO DO 

plate glass. The side enclosures are of sliding plate 
glass or fabric and glass combined. Jiffy curtains with 
flexible windows are sometimes provided in addition. 

Such a top gives all the comfort and beauty of an 
enclosed model at only a fraction of the extra cost of 
the same. It converts a used car into one that the 
owner can drive with real pride or sell to exceptional 
advantage. 

The Care of Upholstery — Open cars are upholstered 
in either leather or a leather-like material of the Fabri- 
koid type. With reasonable care either type will give 
you good service, and either type will suffer from 
abuse. 

You must be more careful with leather, especially 
if it is colored, as leather is porous and likely to be- 
come soiled and spotted from dirty clothing, foreign 
matter and rain. Once soiled it is best to turn the 
cleaning over to an expert. 

When working inside the car keep the upholstery 
covered. Many garages and repair shops make Fabri- 
koid slip covers to protect the cushions and door linings 
from being soiled while repairs are in progress. 

Dull and shabby upholstery can be refinished with a 
good leather renovator, but get a good one and follow 
directions. The danger is in getting too much of the 
finish into the plaits of the upholstery, where it dries 
very slowly and may ruin clothing a long time after it 
is applied. 

Don't tolerate torn and broken down cushions. Have 
them re-covered at any good trimming shop. The im- 
provement will justify the expense. 



172 



WHAT TO DO 



CHAPTER XXVII 



DIAGNOSING TROUBLES 

When the doctor arrived, he immediately vaccinated 
the sufferer and administered a dose of epsom salts. 
No immediate change for the better being apparent, he 
pulled a tooth, inspected the lungs with a stethoscope, 
applied an ice pack to the head and ordered the patient 
to the seashore for a complete rest. 

This is an exaggerated and wholly imaginary case. 
Of course no doctor would treat any patient in such 
an illogical fashion, but it rather aptly illustrates the 
procedure followed by some car-owners when their car, 
for some obscure reason, begins to "act up." 

A car that is driven with proper consideration for its 
limitations and cared for with intelligent appreciation 
of its necessities will give its owner little trouble. 
Some trouble, however, seems inevitable and may be 
expected, sooner or later. 

Forewarned should be fore-armed. The car owner 
should be prepared for trouble when it comes, with a 
knowledge of his car and of "what makes it go." He 
should have learned from his instruction book or some 
other authoritative source the name of each essential 
part, where it is located, the function it performs, the 
principle on which it operates and the causes of each of 
the actuating impulses which combine to move the 
car. 

If he lacks this knowledge, he had better leave his 

173 



WHAT TO DO 

ailing car alone. Uncalled for adjustments and unne- 
cessary tampering can easily aggravate the original 
trouble or create troubles which had not previously ex- 
isted. If a car owner does not know why he tightens 
this or loosens that or what will be the result of any 
adjustment he is about to make, he had better stay his 
hand or at least be sure of his ability to put things 
back the way he found them if his guess-work adjust- 
ment fails to accomplish the desired result. An auto- 
mobile is a piece of machinery too fine and too expen- 
sive to be endangered by a bungling workman — 
whether it be the owner or an incompetent mechanic. 

Possessing this knowledge, he will realize the futility 
of running down his batteries with repeated trials at 
the starter, breaking his back with fruitless labor at 
the crank, monkeying with the carburetor or indulging 
in any of the forms of blind and aimless tinkering to 
which the uninformed car owner usually resorts. In- 
stead, he can proceed just as the capable doctor does — 
first to diagnose the ailment and then — and not earlier 
— to remedy it. 

In diagnosing any trouble, the first step, of course, 
is to locate the seat as nearly as possible. The best way 
to do this is by elimination. That is, first knowing what 
is necessary, see what is lacking. 

To illustrate — suppose the trouble is in the power 
plant. We know that before the engine will run there 
must be GASOLINE all the way from the storage tank 
to the carburetor where, vaporized with the right pro- 
portion of air, it becomes a CORRECT MIXTURE which 
is drawn into the cylinder and there subject to COM- 
PRESSION and, while compressed, is ignited by the 
SPARK, causing an explosion, which, coming at the 



174 



WHAT TO DO 

right time, causes the moving parts of the engine to 
rotate. These are the first essentials. How well the 
engine will run, if at all, and the amount of power it will 
produce, depends on the degree to which any of these es- 
sentials are lacking. After the engine is luiYning, there 
must be ample and complete LUBRICATION of every 
moving part and there must be an efficient COOLING 
SYSTEM. 

The search for the missing or partially lacking es- 
sential may begin anywhere. The car owner may 
guess from certain indications that the trouble is in the 
ignition. If so, he should play his judgment to the limit 
and go through his ignition system until he has found 
the cause of the trouble or has proven, by thorough in- 
vestigation, that his ignition is all right and his guess 
all wrong. 

Whether he starts to test out his ignition, his fuel 
system or his compression, he should complete one in- 
vestigation before beginning another — not skip about 
from spark plugs to carburetor and back to cylinders, 
etc. In skipping about he may accidentally happen to 
hit on the ailing spot but, nine times out of ten, he will 
save time in the long run if he will fight it out like Gen- 
eral Grant, one line at a time. 

Lots of car owners have one of these mottoes hanging 
on their office wall that bear, in big letters, the one 
word THINK. However valuable that motto may be 
in business hours, the suggestion it conveys will be the 
best tool in his kit when anything goes wrong with his 
car. If he will just think — use his head before his 
hands — reason out the possible causes and then test 
each one out thoroughly, troubles won't trouble him 
much. 



175 



WHAT TO DO 



CHAPTER XXVIII 

SOME COMMON TROUBLES— THEIR 
CAUSE AND REMEDY 

On this and subsequent pages, a great many automo- 
bile troubles are enumerated and a remedy for each 
suggested. When the car owner encounters any of 
these particular troubles he may, on referring to the 
paragraph devoted to it, find a specific remedy or at 
least a hint that will help him find the remedy. 

But no attempt is made to undertake the manifestly 
impossible task of enumerating and prescribing for 
each of the possible instances or variaties of automobile 
troubles and while the car owner may find these throu- 
ble hints helpful, he should understand that they can 
not, entirely make up for a lack of knowledge of his car 
or remedy his inability to reason out for himself his 
troubles as they occur. 
Starting Motor Fails to Rotate : 

(A) Test condition of battery by turning on lights. If lights 
dim when starter button is pressed and brighten when released, 
battery is too weak. 

(B) Examine battery and starting switch terminals for 
looseness and corrosion. All connections should be clean, bright 
and tight. 

(C) Examine wiring for broken insulation; observing also 
for insulation which may have become useless through being oil 
soaked. 

(D) Examine self-starter switch spring for weakness due to 
lost temper. 

(E) See if commutator is clean; if not, put a little oil on 
bit of cloth and hold it on the surface while commutator is 
running, being sure to wipe off all oil. If this does not remove 
dirt, use strip of No. 60 sandpaper and hold it against com- 

176 



WHAT TO DO 

mutator while it is running. Never use emery or crocus cloth 
for this purpose. Be sure to blow out all sand and dust after- 
wards. 

(F) See if commutator brushes are dirty or worn, if they fit 
in their holders, that the spring tension is tight enough. 

Do not disturb commutator or brushes until all other causes 
have been tested out. 

Starter Turns Engine Over Very Slowly : 

(A) If starter stops after turning engine ovew two or three 
times the cause is most likely due to weak battery. 

(B) Brush contact may be poor. (See "E" in preceding 
paragraph.) 

(C) Engine may be stiff due to cold or poorly lubricated 
bearings. 

Engine Fails to Start : If the starter turns the engine 
over but the engine fails to fire, release the starter- 
button at once so as not to run down battery and 
seek the trouble elsewhere. 

(A) See first that the ignition has been turned on and that 
the mixture has been temporarily enriched by decreasing air 
(choking) or by increasing gasoline (priming-). 

(B) Investigate gasoline supply at carburetor. If dripping 
or leakage is observed, the carburetor is flooding. If no leakage 
is observed, open pet cock under carburetor to permit escape of 
water which may be obstructing gasoline flow also to observe 
if gasoline is reaching carburetor. If there is no drainage or 
if drainage soon stops, see if there is gasoline in storage tank, 
that the air vent in storage tank is open and that the shut-off 
in gas line is open. See if water or sediment is obstructing 
gasoline flow by opening drain plug at bottom of storage tank, 
thus permitting any accumulation to escape. If gasoline still 
fails to reach carburetor and gravity system is used, investigate 
for obstruction in feed pipe or floating obstruction in tank. 
Such an obstruction may also be the cause of the trouble if 
vacuum system is used and gasoline fails to reach vacuum tank. 
If gasoline reaches tank but still fails to reach carburetor, clean 
screen at fuel entrance to vacuum tank. Open drain, plug at 
bottom of vacuum tank to permit escape of possible water ac- 
cumulation. If tank seems to be empty refill by closing throttle 
and turning engine over a few times with spark off. Finally, 
clean carburetor strainer. 

(C) Due to excessive priming or carburetor flooding, 
cylinders may be filled with raw gasoline. Open relief cocks, 
cut off throttle and turn over engine until explosion occurs in- 
dicating that excess has been eliminated, then close relief cocks 
and turn engine over with throttle almost closed. 

(D) Disconnect spark plug wires and holding them about 
three-eighths of an inch from the plug terminal, see if good 

177 



IV HAT TO DO 

spark jumps the gap when engine is cranked. No spark prob- 
ably indicates broken connection or faulty insulation causing 
short circuit — no spark may also indicate broken spark plug 
porcelain. 

(E) Check wiring for loose connections, corroded terminals 
and broken insulation. 

(F) Sed, that timer or distributor is clean and free from 
moisture. 

(G) If vibrator coil is used for each cylinder, lack of spark 
at plug may be due to vibrator points having become burned, 
pitted or out of line, making good contact impossible. The 
remedy is to smooth these points with thin flat file so that all 
surfaces meet each other squarely. 

Engine Starts and Runs, but Misses Irregularly at Low 
Speeds: If this occurs in cold weather, the trouble 
will probably cease after engine warms up. If it does 
not, then: 

(A) See if missing is confined to a certain cylinder or 
cylinders. If the missing cylinders can be determined, the 
search for the trouble can be confined to these. In any event, 
switch from the battery system to magneto system and vice 
versa to see which system is at fault. 

(B) If missing occurs on battery only, see (1) that the 
switch connection is tight, (2) that the battery terminals and 
connections are clean and tight, (3) that the wires are unbroken 
and that there is no broken or chafed insulation. 

(C) If missing occurs on mag-neto only, see (1) that the 
switch connections are tight, (2) that the magneto wiring is 
not broken, chafed or grounded, (3) if wiring and connections 
are O. K. and the trouble still continues and can not be located 
elsewhere, have the magneto examined at the service station 
maintained for magnetos of that make. 

(D) If missing occurs on both battery and magneto and the 
connections and wiring are known to be o. k., see (1) if any of 
the spark plugs are dirty or have cracked porcelains. This will 
be simplified if the missing cylinder or cylinders can be located. 

(2) See that spark plug gaps have proper opening — 1-32 of an 
inch for coil ignition, 1-64 of an inch for magneto ignition. 

(3) If car has vibrator coil, the vibrator points may have become 
dirty or may be out of adjustment. Clean with fine thin file 
and tighten retaining screw until the distance between the 
stationary and movable points is not more than 1-S2 of an inch. 

(4) See that the timer is clean and free from moisture. (5) 
Timing may be wTong; in which event refer to instruction book 
for car for proper timing or, better, take car to service station. 

(E) If trouble is not located in the timer or any part of the 

178 



WHAT TO DO 

electric system, it may be due to (1) poor compression, (2) leak 
in inlet pipe, valve or connections v^^hich can be discovered by 
squirting gasoline at each point in turn and observing if engine 
picks up; (3) inlet valve may be sticking; (4) exhaust valve 
spring may be so weak as to permit valve to open on suction 
stroke, thus drawing burned gases back into cylinder; (5) gaso- 
line line may be partially clogged. (6) carburetor nozzle may be 
partially clogged; (7) water may have accumulated in the car- 
buretor. (8) Some carburetor adjustment may be needed. 

If Lights Dim When Starter Is Used : 

(A) Almost always indicates weak battery. 

(B) May indicate loose battery terminal or "loose ground 
connection. 

Lights Brighten When Speed Increases — Dim When 
When Speed decreases : 

Another indication of weak battery. 
If Bulbs in One Socket Burn Out in Quick Succession : 

(A) Probably due to short circuit. 

(B) Lamps may not be of proper voltage. 

Fuses Blow Out Frequently: 

(A) Fuse capacity may be too low. 

(B) Likely a short circuit somewhere. 

(C) Lamps may not be of right voltage. 

Radiator Consistently Over-Heats : 

See under head of "Engine Over Heats," this chapter. 

Radiator Leaks: 

See page 112. 

Radiator Freezes : 

(A) Do not attempt to thaw by running engine. Melt ice 
by pouring warm water on radiator. Don't try to melt too 
quickly. Be sure passages are all free from ice before starting 
again. Then drain out water and refill with anti-freeze 
solution. See also page 113. 

Fan Troubles : Nearly always caused by lack of lubri- 
cation, worn fan bushings, failure to adjust as pro- 
vided so as to give fan belt proper tautness. Knocks, 
sometimes sought for elsewhere, are caused by fan 

179 



WHAT TO DO 

belt striking pulley or fan blades striking radiator. 
Keep fan belt from getting greasy, clean occasionally, 
keep fan belt tight by adjustments provided for that 
purpose. 

Gasoline Does Not Reach Carburetor : 

See paragraph B under heading "Engine Fails to Start," 
this chapter. Also pages 101, 102, 103. 

Carburetor Overflows or Floods: Apparent overflow 
may really be caused by a leak at one of the connec- 
tions. Look for such before touching the carburetor. 
If due to some carburetor condition, it may be caused 
by: 

(A) A small particle of dirt having lodged under the float 
valve. Remove small cap on top of the float chamber and lift 
or turn needle valve stem and the dirt Vfill probably be released. 

Engine Back Fires Through Carburetor: (Not to be 
confused with the less important "snapping," "pop- 
ping" or 'sneezing" in carburetor.) 

(A) Intake valve bushing may be so worn as to require re- 
placement. 

(B) Valve seat may have become foul or pitted so that it 
may be necessary to re-seat it. 

(C) Intake valve spring may be so vi^eak as to require re- 
placement. 

(D) An air leak in the inlet manifold connections may also 
be cause. 

(E) Intake valve may not be properly timed and opens 
before burning charge has been exhausted. 

(F) Mixture may be v^reak or fuel may be slow^er burning 
than carburetor is adjusted to take. 

(G) Might be due to water in carburetor. 

(H) Another possible cause is partial obstruction in gas line. 

Engine and Car Stop Gradually : Usually accompanied 
by back firing and almost invariably caused by lack 
of gasoline or stoppage of flow. If there is plenty of 
gas in storage tank, check for obstructions all the 

180 



WHAT TO DO 

way from the air vent in the storage tank to the car- 
buretor nozzle: 

(A) Needle valve of carburetor may have jarred shut. 

(B) Might be due to exhausted batteries — if running on 
batteries. 

(C) Spark plugs may be badly fouled through excess lubri- 
cation. 

Engine and Car Stop Suddenly: Due to some mechan- 
ical trouble; there may be a frozen bearing, broken 
connecting rod or other condition which has sud- 
denly exerted a braking action of the car. 

Engine Stops Suddenly — Car Gradually: Almost in- 
variably caused by some interference with the igni- 
tion. Look for broken or disconnected wires, loose 
switch connection or anything that might stop cur- 
rent. If stream has recently been forded, look for 
water in timer or distributor. 

Engine Will Not Stop: 

(A) If engine is running smoothly, the cable between the 
magneto and switch has become disconnected. 

(B) If firing is irregular, the trouble is probably caused by 
over-heating due to carbon accumulation in cylinders having 
become incandescent, thus continuing to explode charge after 
ignition is cut off. 

(C) Stop engine by cutting off gasoline supply so that 
trouble can be investigated. 

Engine Knocks: No engine knock is a boost. Its 
cause should be investigated as »oon as it develops. 
It is an unmistakable evidence of trouble and while 
the trouble may be of a minor nature and easily 
remedied, it may, on the other hand, indicate a con- 
dition calling for an important repair which, if neg~ 
lected, may result in very serious trouble. 

(A) Engine may be over-heated due to one or more of the 
causes mentioned in preceding section, this chapter "Engine 
Over Heats." 

(B) Bearings may have become excessively hot through lack 
of lubrication. 

(C) Let engine cool, lubricate bearings thoroughly and start 

181 



WHAT TO DO 

up very cautiously and observe for any indication of tightness. 

(D) See if oil holes have been clogged up. 

(E) If engine is not excessively hot, the trouble may be 
due to driving with spark too far advanced. 

(F) If sound is apparently coming from one or more 
cylinders, and if it has a metallic sound and occurs regularly 
with each explosion and increases in violence as throttle is 
open, it is almost surely caused by carbon accumulation in 
cylinder or on piston heads. Such accumulation can probably 
be removed as suggested on page 78. 

(G) Should the knock be slight on the level but increase on 
hills, the trouble is probably due to worn piston rings or pistons. 
This can be definitely established by taking out spark plugs and 
pouring about a quarter of a tea cup full of heavy oil into each 
cylinder or into the cylinder from which the knock apparently 
comes. Crank engine slowly by hand until oil works around 
rings. Replace spark plugs and start engine. If knock is no 
longer apparent, the heavy oil has "cushioned" the piston from 
the cylinder, thus stopping the trouble. This is only temporary 
and is a test rather than a remedy. As soon as the oil gets hot, 
it will thin and the trouble will start again. Have mechanic 
make permanent repair as nature of trouble requires. 

(H) A "muffled" knock may be due to loose connecting rod 
or loose piston rings. 

(I) A heavy pounding knock, occurring regularly, may come 
from the crank shaft main bearing. 

(J) A "grinding" knock may be caused by imperfect mesh- 
ing of cam shaft gears. 

(K) Frequently located in valves due to gummed valve 
stems, worn valve stems or improper push rod adjustment. 
Have car examined at service station. 

(L) Has been known to be caused by cylinder being loose 
on base. 

(M) Can be caused by over-rich mixture which, however, can 
be tested by observing color of explosive flame or color of ex- 
haust smoke — see page 

If an engine develops a knock, which can not be 
definitely traced to ignition, carbon, loose or worn 
pistons or to carburetion, put the car in the hands of 
a competent repair man without delay. 

Engine Vibrates : 

(A) Engine loose on frame. Tighten all retaining bolts. 

(B) Uneven compression in more than one cylinder. 

(C) Pistons of different weight may also cause vibration. 

(D) One or more pistons may be sticking. 

(E) Crank shaft might be sprung. 

182 



WHAT TO DO 

The first mentioned possible cause ("A") of course 
increases vibration which may be due to any of the 
other possible causes. 

Engine "Hisses" or "Wheezes:" 

(A) Probably a compression leak. See if compression cock 
is partially open. May be compression, leakage around spark 
plug or valve caps may be loose. Joint between engine and ex- 
haust pipe may be leaking". Exhaust pipe may be cracked. 

(B) Might be due to broken spark plug porcelain. 

Engine Starts and Runs, but Misses at High Speed 
Only : 

(A) Switch from magneto to battery or vice versa to deter- 
mine which system, if either, is at fault and proceed to investi- 
gate possible causes as described in paragraphs A, B, C, D and 
E in preceding section. 

(B) Breaker arm may be sticking. Clean pivot bearing. 

(C) Breaker contact opening may be too small, if misses 
are worse with spark advanced. Remedy by gradually screwing 
in breaker contact screw, stopping as soon as engine begins to 
run smoothly — being sure of ability to return screw to original 
position should this adjustment fail to stop trouble. 

(D) If new car, carburetor may not have been set for high 
speed. If the car is old and it has been running satisfactorily, 
the trouble is not likely to be found in the carburetor. 

Engine Starts, but Will Not Pull : If this occurs in cold 
weather, it may be due to engine not having had time 
to warm up. 

(A) If accompanied by missing, the battery may be too 
weak. 

(B) If accompanied by "popping" in carburetor, the mixture 
may be too lean due possibly to water in gasoline or partial ob- 
struction of gasoline flow. 

(C) If accompanied by black smoke from muffler, the car- 
buretor mixture may be too rich, due possibly to derangement 
of carburetor float. 

(D) There may be leakage around intake valves or connec- 
tions. Test by squirting gasoline on each in turn and observe 
if engine seems to pick up. 

(E) Compression may be poor. (See index). 

Engine Over Heats: 

(A) First investigate cooling system. Water may be too 
low in radiator. Fan belt may be off or slipping, due to dirt 
or grease. Circulation of water may be impaired by clogging 

183 



WHAT TO DO 

of water passages. Flush and clean as directed in Chapter on 
The Cooling System, Its Care — see index. Water passages may 
be closed by radiator having been "dented in." Inner lining 
of hose connection may have become looose and is obstructing 
water flow. Exterior of radiator may be covered with mud, 
preventing- heat radiation. If forced circulation, water pump 
may need repacking. 

(B) Look to the lubrication. The oil supply may be too 
low or the oil being used may not be of the correct type. The 
oil may have become too thin through long use — in which case, 
it should be drained, the crank case cleaned and fresh oil put 
in. If forced lubrication, the strainer of the oil pump may be 
clogged or, if weather is cold, the oil may have become so 
congealed that pump can not draw it from the pan. The oil 
pump may not be functioning — distributor pipes may be clogged 
— pump may need priming. 

(C) Overheating will always result from running too long 
with spark gTeatly retarded. 

(D) May be due to carbon deposits on cylinder or pistons. 
(See index. The Care of the Engine, for suggestions on carbon 
removal.) 

(E) May be caused from driving too long in low gear or to 
combination of di'iving with throttle too wide open and spark 
too far retarded. 

(F) Carburetor mixture may be too rich as will be indicated 
if exhaust smoke is in large volume and very black. 

Engine Back Fires in Muffler: Anything that will 
cause a cylinder to miss will also cause back-firing 
in muffler. May also be caused by exhaust valve 
leaks. 

Engine Lacks Power: 

(A) Most frequently caused by poor compression due to com- 
pression leaks, carbonized, scored or cracked cylinder or pistons 
or to worn or otherwise defective piston rings. (See pages 75, 79, 
118.) 

(B) May also be caused by improper valve timing or incor- 
rect spark timing. Have this tested by service station main- 
tained for yoiur make of car. 

(C) May possibly be remedied by running with spark further 
advanced. 

(D) Always results from overheating. (See paragraph, 
Engine Over Heats, this chapter.) 

(E) Another possible cause is weak spark due to condition 
of battery, dirty distributor or worn or loose parts. 

(F) May also result, to some extent, from clogged muffler 

184 



WHAT TO DO 

which prevents free escape of burned gases which may cause 
back pressure. 

(G) Dragging brakes may be compelling engine to pull 
against constant friction. 

(H) A slipping clutch may be preventing transmission of 
full amount of power generated. 

(I) Carburetor mixture may be too rich. Observe color of 
exhaust smoke. 

(C) Valve may be defective in which case some repair or 
replacement is necessary which the car owner had better leave 
to the service station maintained for that make of carburetor. 
It may be necessary to repair or replace float. See also pages 
108-109. 

Vacuum Tank Overflows : If occasional, from air vent, 

no attention should be paid to it. If continuous : 

(A) See if air hole in storage tank is clogged and, if so, 
open. 

(B) Cover of tank may be loose. If tightening does not 
remedy, new gaskets are needed. 

(C) There may be a crack or break in the tubing or con- 
nections at head of tank. 

(D) Connection to carburetor may be loose. 
See also page 107. 

Carburetor Freezes: Due to presence of water in the 
gasoline. Can be prevented by straining gasoline 
into storage tank through chamois- If this is not 
done, the carburetor should be frequently drained 
during cold weather. If the carburetor should freeze, 
the condition will be readily observed by stoppage 
of gas flow. Thaw by pouring on warm water or by 
wrapping in heavy clothes wrung out of very hot 
water. 

Carburetor "Pops" or "Snaps:" Probably due to cold 
engine and will stop when engine is warmed up. 
Otherwise, may be due to weak mixture which in 
turn may be caused by water in the gasoline, par- 
tially clogged fuel line, strainer may be clogged, a 
particle of dirt may have lodged under needle valve. 

Carburetor "Hisses" or "Wheezes:" 

(A) Choke may be pulled out too far. 

(B) Butterfly may be loose on the air valve pilot. 

(C) Choke valve wire may be too short. 

185 



WHAT TO DO 

Magneto Noises : 

(A) A knock is likely due to loose magneto coupling. 

(B) A "click" or "rumble" is nearly always caused by lack 
or neglect of lubrication. 

Observe manufacturers instructions religiously as to places 
to lubricate and character of lubricant to use. Leave magneto 
adjustments and repairs to a competent service station. 

Generator Fails to Charge Properly : 

(A) Cable might be disconnected. 

(B) There might be a short circuit in cut out switch. 

(D) Brush adjustment may not be correct. 

(E) Brushes may be worn. 

(F) Carbon dust may be causing a ground. 

(G) Commutator may be dirty. 

The car owner would do well to find out the proper charging 
rate of his generator and to observe, every now and then, if 
the generator is functioning properly but repairs or adjustments 
should be made ONLY by the service station maintained by the 
manufacturer. 

Excessive and Continuous Smoke from Muffler: Any- 
noticeable amount of smoke coming regularly from 
the muffler is ''excessive" and not only creates a 
nuisance which some cities punish by a fine, but also 
indicates expensive waste of lubricating oil or gaso- 
line: 

(A) When muffler smoke is blue or bluish-white, it indi- 
cates that too much lubricating oil is being used — either because 
the crank case is too full or because the piston rings are leaking. 

(B) Blue or bluish-white smoke coming in intermittent 
puffs, indicates over lubrication or leaky piston rings in one or 
more cylinders only. 

(C) When muffler smoke is black, it indicates use of too 
much gasoline — an over-rich mixture which reveals the need, 
usually of some carburetor adjustment. 

Need of Carburetor Adjustment Indicated by Color of 
Explosive Flame : A blue flame observed at the open 
priming cock indicates a correct mixture; a white 
flame a poor or too-lean mixture; a red flame indi- 
cates an over-rich mixture. 

Oil Leakage: The few spoons full of oil observed on 
the street or on the garage floor after the car has 

186 



WHAT TO DO 

been standing a while, may seem too small to be con- 
cerned about but the amount lost in a year may have 
a value that should encourage the car owner to stop 
the leak. 

These drips may come from : 

(A) Loose cap screws on crank case. 

(B) Loose bolts or defective gaskets on transmission gear 
case or differential. 

(C) May be due to absence of felt retaining washers usually 
provided. 

Water in Crank Case : One of the products of combus- 
tion is water which should pass out with exhaust in 
the form of vapor. Its preseence in^ the crank case 
very likely indicates a tendency to "oval" in the cylin- 
der caused by the thrust of the connecting rod being 
against one side on the up-stroke and against the 
other on the down stroke. 

Flooded Cylinder: Usually due to engine having been 
cranked repeatedly without firing and the cylinders, 
in consequence, flooded with almost pure gasoline 
which has condensed in the cold cylinder and which, 
naturally, will not explode. Open priming cock and 
crank engine until the over-rich mixture has been 
expelled or diluted. Then close cock and engine 
should fire. 

Frequent or Excessive Fouling of Spark Plugs : 

(A) May be due to loose or otherwise leaky piston ring., 

(B) If soot is soft and very black, the cause is probably 
an over-rich mixture. 

(C) If the plugs are oily and sooty at the end, there is prob- 
ably a leaky exhaust valve. 

Stuck or "Seized" Pistons : Nearly always due to lack 

of lubrication. Open relief cocks or take out spark 

plugs to relieve compression and pour in kerosene 

187 



i 4'HAT TO DO 

liberally. Then endeavor to turn engine over by 
hand or the starter or both. If unable to move piston, 
let stand awhile to allow kerosene longer time to pen- 
etrate or try pushing or towing, starting with the 
gear in high and clutch out. After car has attained 
some momentum, engage clutch cautiously so as not 
to run any risk of stripping gears or even of break- 
ing drive shaft. After succeeding in moving piston, 
open drain cock to permit escape of kerosene and old 
oil and refill crank case with new oil. Thereafter, 
the engine should be run very slowly in order to per- 
mit the new oil to work to all parts of cylinder. 
If None of Light Bulbs Light : 

(A) Bulbs may be burned out or filaments broken. 

(B) Look for broken connections, broken wires and broken 
insulation. 

(C) If grounded system, examine ground ccTanections. 

(D) Fuse may be blown. 

(E) Battery may be discharged. 

If Lamp9 Flicker: 

(A) May be due to loose connection. 

(B) May be small break in insulation causing intermittent 
short circuit. 

(C) Ground contact may be loose. See if both lights or only 
one is affected. If only one seek the trouble on that circuit only. 

If Any One Bulb Fails to Light : 

(A) May be burned out or filament broken. 

(B) Perhaps no contact at socket; screw up tighter. 

(C) If another bulb will burn in same socket, the trouble 
must be in the bulb. 

(D) If another bulb will not burn in that socket, examine 
that circuit for bad connections, broken wire, broken insulation 
and defective grounding— perhaps in headlight rim. 

If Lights Are Dim : 

(A) Probably due to weak battery. 

(B) Battery connections probably loose or corroded. 

(C) Lamps may be old and carbonized. Replace with new. 

(D) Ground connections, usually in headlight rim, may be 
loose. Press firmly into place. 

Ammeter Inconsistencies: If the ammeter registers 

188 



WHAT TO DO 

"charge" or "discharge" when the car is standing 
still with the lights off; if it registers neither one 
when the car is running or if it indicates "charge" at 
low speeds or "discharge" at high speed — it is a sign 
of trouble that may range anywhere from a bent 
ammeter needle or reversed ammeter wires to a short 
circuit or bad connections. In any event, the trouble 
is one that nearly always calls for a visit to the ser- 
vice station and there's little luck in postponing 
the trip there. 
Battery Heats : Most likely due to over-charging. Burn 
lights more frequently or run down with starter- 

(A) Generator may not be functioning properly. 

Battery Discharges Too Quickly : 

(B) Possibly due to loose connections. 

(C) Wiring may be grounded somewhere between battery, 
generator and switch. 

(D) There may be an internal short circuit. 

(E) Perhaps car is used too little or run at speed too low 
to keep battery charged. 

(F) Might be due to one or more leaky cells. 

(G) If frequent stops are made and starter used each time 
to start again, this may be running down battery. 

All this, assuming that the car owner is making it a point to 
see that his batteries are inspected at least twice a month and 
that water is being added as needed. See page 96. 

Brakes Do Not "Take Hold" Properly : 

(A) Drum or band facings may have become oily or dirty. 
Wash with gasoline and apply few drops of neats foot oil. 

(B) Lining may have worn "slick." Roughen with rasp and 
apply few drops neats foot oil. 

(C) Linings may be worn out; replace. 

(D) Bands may be too loose; adjust as provided. 
See also page 126. 

Brakes '*Giab:" 

Bands too tight — not enough clearance. Adjust as provided. 

Brakes Drag : Usually confided to one wheel. Test by 

189 



WHAT TO DO 

jacking up rear wheels, starting car and applying 
brakes in usual way, observing action on each wheel. 
Braking action should be the same on each. If ac- 
tion on one is more "severe," adjust as provided until 
action is equal. 

(A) See, also, that springs completely disengage brakes 
when released. 

Brakes "Shriek:" 

(A) Nearly always the case when making a "wild west" 
stop — a too sudden application of brakes. 

(B) Caused also by dirty linings. Clean with stiff brush 
dipped in gasoline and appply few drops of neats foot oil. 
Brakes Rattle or Clatter: 

(A) Frequently caused by brake rods striking together. 
Wind rods separately with tire tape to rnake buffer at contact 
point. 

(B) Clevis yoke may be spread. Drive together. 

(C) Clevis pin may be worn and should be replaced, 

(D) Lock nut at clevis may be loose. 

(E) Connections may need lubrication. 

(F) May be caused by loose bearing at emergency brake 
lever joint, due possibly to worn bushing. 

(G) Plunger spring may be loose. 

Clutch "Slips:" 

If cone clutch: 

(A) May be due to surface being covered with oil or grease. 
Clean by squirting on gasoline. (Temporary and not advised — 
throw in fullers earth or sand.) 

(B) May be glazed from wear due to driver keeping foot 
constantly on clutch pedal. Fasten pedal in "out" position, 
put on little neats foot oil and roughen with small saw or other 
abrasive tool. 

(C) Clutch leather may be worn out; replace. 
If metal-to-metal type. 

(D) Clutch spring may be too weak. 

In either type, see if clutch pedal moves freely and to the full 
extent of the "in" and "out" positions. See page 122. 

Clutch Grabs, If cone type: 

(A) Clutch leathers may be hard or dry. Soften with dress- 
ing of a few drops of neats foot oil. 

(B) Springs may be too tight. 
If disc type: 

(C) Plates may need cleaning. 

(D) Lighter oil may be required. 

(E) Spring may be too tight. 

190 



WHAT TO DO 

Difficult Gear Change: 

(A) Shifting members may be stuck on shaft. 

(B) Gear teeth may be burred or broken. 

Care in gear changing and religious observance of necessary 
lubrication should prevent trouble in gears. 

Gear Shift Lever Rattles: 

(A) May be worn ball socket. Lubrication with heavy 
grease will temporarily remedy. 

(B) Ball may be worn. Dent in socket slightly. 

(C) Bearing may ge worn. Put in thin washer at joint. 

Abnormal Noise In Transmission: Should have imme- 
diate attention. 

(A) May be due to lack of lubrication of change gears or 
bevel gear on rear axle. 

(B) Sliding member of clutch may be out of alignment. 

(C) Worn bearing, gears or teeth. 

(D) Loose nut or other piece of metal in gear case. Very 
dangerous to run until it is removed. 

Abnominal Noise in Differential: 

(A) Slight grinding indicates neglect of lubrication. 

(B) A click, likely indicates a chipped gear. 

(C) A grinding knock probably means a broken tooth catch- 
ing in gears. 

(D) An uneven growl is likely to mean that the ring gear 
is meshing too loosely. 

Abnormal Noise In Universal Joint : 

(A) Sleeve connections may be loose. Tighten flange bolts. 

(B) May also be caused by neglect of lubrication. 

(C) A "slap" may mean that the bushings are worn. Turn 
them end for end. 

Excessive Play in Steering Wheel: 

(A) May be caused by loose drag links. Adjust as provided. 

(B) Gear tooth may be worn. Take up on eccentric bush- 
ing. 

(C) Possibly due to loose or worn out bearings. Replace 
or tighten as provided. 

191 



WHAT TO DO 

Squeaks and Rattles: Most frequentl,y caused by 
looseness or lack of lubrication. Some of the most 
common sources are : 

(A) Look at the springs. Tighten the bolts and lubricate 
between leaves and at ends. 

(B) Perhaps lubrication of clutch forks has been overlooked. 

(C) Maybe the valve stems are dry. 

(D) The radiator may be loose. 

(E) The fuel tank may be loose. 

(F) Perhaps the upper steering shaft bearing is dry. 

(G) The torque rod connections may be loose. 

(H) The body retaining bolts may need tightening. 

(I) Door hinges may be loose or dry. Graphite grease is a 
fine lubricant for them. 

(K) Fender bolts may need tightening. Try a felt or leather 
vv^asher. 

(L) If hood buffers are worn out, replace with strips of felt 
or leather. 

(M) Rattling doors can be quieted with little buffers of 
"cure cut" or "tire putty." 

(N) Wind shield squeeks can be relieved by applying graph- 
ite grease at support bearings. 

(O) Keep rim lugs tight. 

(P) Keep lamp brackets tight. 



192 



Buyers Guide 



Buyers Guide 



INDEX 



A 

Accidents 24 

Ammeter 22, 91 

inconsistencies of ....188, 189 
Anti-freeze Solution 113 

B 

Battery: 

care of 88 

charging 96 

faulty connections 96 

laying-up 94 

short circuit 90 

testinfir 90 

Battery Troubles 92, 97, 176, 

178,179,189 

Bearings : 

adjustment 148 

care of 146 

lubrication 64, 65, 146 

replacement of 149, 150 

troubles 80, 181 

what every motorist 
ought to know about 
his 146-152 

Beginners: 

teaching how to drive 17 

Brakes: 

adjustment 125 

braking pressure, to test.. 125 

care of 124 

lining 126 

troubles 125, 159,185, 

189,190 
use of 19,20,26 

Buyer's Guide 194, 195 

C 

Car, The: 

care of 38-46 

cleaning and polish- 
ing, 163-168 

economy in operating 13 

insuring 30 

knowledge of, 
essential 11-16, 36, 40 

management of 16 

isystematic inspection. ...42-46 



Carbon: 

in cylinders 77-79 

on commutator 144 

liquid de-carbonizers 79 

in lubricating oil 55 

on spark plugs 141, 187 

removal of 78-79 

Carburetor: 
adjustment of ....104, 108, 109 

affected by fuel 185 

care of 107 

color of explosive flame.. 106 

troubles, ....109, 110, 177, 179, 

180,182,185 

Chains: 

use of non-skid 20-21 

Ispeedometer wear of 68 

Climbing Hills 19 

Clutch: 

adjustment of 122 

care of 121-123 

lubrication 58, 121 

troubles 122, 185, 190 

use of 18, 19, 121 

Coil Ignition 140 

Compression: 
faulty, 75, 76, 77, 78, 179, 183 

Commutator: 

troubles 144, 176, ITt 

Cone Clutch 

(see under Clutch, 121) 

Connections: 

electrical 134-137 

Cooling System: 

care of Ill 

troubles of 113, 114, 183 

Cuts in Tires 160 

Cylinder: 

carbon in 77 

compression, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79 
79, 179, 183 

cracked 77, 112 

how tested 77 

flooded 187 

mis-firing 178, 180, 184 



INDEX— Continued 



D 

Differential: 

care of 129-132 

lubrication of 59, 67, 129 

troubles 130, 131, 191 

Distriutor: 

(for Ford Timer, see 
page 98-100) 

care of 99 

troubles 99, 178, 181 

Driving Suggestions 17-23 

Electrical System: 

care of 133 

general chapter on.. ..133-145 
short circuit, broken 

connections 135-136 

wiring and con- 

nectioAS 134-137 

Engine: 

care of 75-80 

lubrication 85 

starting, the 17, 18 

truobles of, 176-178, 180-184 
what every motorist 
ought to know 
about his 81-87 

Engine Bearings: 

adjustment of 148 

care of 147 

looseness of 80, 151 

lubrication 146, 147 

replacement 149, 150 

Exhaust: 

color of smoke indicates. .186 

fumes, dangerous 79, 106 

maifold, cleaning 79 

Explosive flame 186 

F 

Fan: 

lubrication 59, 114 

troubles 179 

Fan Belt: 

adjustment 179 

cleaning 114, 180 

troubles 183 



.106 



Fire: 

in case of 

Flash Point: 

of oil 52 

Flooding — see carburetor 

Freezing: 

carburetor 185 

Radiator 179 

Fouling: 

spark plugs 141 

Fuel System: 

care of 86, 101, 102, 106 

consists of 101 

troubles of 102, 103, 110, 

177, 180 

G 

Gasoline: 

leakage of 102 

water in 101 

testing 85-105 

Gear Changes: 

improper and troubles 

due to 18, 131, 191 

Generator: 

care of 143-144 

lubrication of 59, 143 

troubles in 143, 144, 186 

H 

Headlights: 

adjustment of 138 

cleaning 137-138 

glaring 22 

laws governing 38 

Heating: 

battery 189 

engine 181, 183, 184 

radiator Ill, 112 

High Tension Ignition 139 

Horn: 

proper use of 22 

laws regarding 36 

Hydrometer 90 



Ignition: 

systems 133,138,143 

parts of 134 



INDEX— Continued 



care of 133-145 

troubles of 133-145 

Inlet Valve: 

care of 185 

troubles 182, 185 

Insulation, Wiring: 

breaks, caused by 134-135 

how detected 135 

how repaired 136-137 

Interruptor 139 

J 

Joints — Universal : 

care of 131 

lubrication of 59, 129, 130 

K 

Kerosene: 

use of, in carbon removal.. 78 
use of in cleaning 

engine 75, 127 

L 

Lamp Bulbs 138 

Lighting System: 

care of 137, 138 

troubles 188 

Liquid De-carbonizers 79 

Low Compression, see com- 
pression. 

Low Tension Ignition 139 

Lubricants: 

adhesiveness 56 

carbon test 55 

cold test 53 

flash point 52 

mechanical defects, not 

cured by 57 

physical specifications 52 

poor gasoline, dilutes 85 

Lubrictaion of: 

axles 59 

battery terminals 59 

break joints and bearings. .59 

differential 59, 67, 129 

engine 85, 86 

fan bearings 59 

generator 59, 143 

magneto 59 



periodical inspec- 
tion of 42-46, 58 

speedometer 59 

spring leaves 59 

spring bolts 58, 69,70 

starter ..59, 145 

steering wheel gears.... 58, 59 

timer 98 

transmission 59, 67 

universal joint ....59, 129, 130 
Wheel bearing's 58 

M 
Magneto: 

care of 139 

troubles due to 178, 186 

Misfiring 180, 184 

Missing Cylinder 142, 183 

Mixture, see Carburetor: 

correct 86-108 

too lean 108 

too rich 108-185 

Muffler: 

clogged 184 

explosion in 184 

cleaning 79, 80 

troubles 176 

O 

Oil see Lubricant: 

leakage of 186, 187 

P 

Pistons: 

cleaning 78 

leaky 77 

lubrication 63 

seized or stuck 76, 187 

Piston Rings: 

chapter on 115-120 

installation of 116 

over-size 120 

relation to oil con- 
sumption 119, 120 

troubles 76, 118 

service 116 

replacement 117 



INDEX— Continued 



Polish: 

how to, the car 165, 167 

body polish, recipe for 167 

Power, loss of; see compression 

Pre-Ignition: 

how evidenced 181 

Proper driving defined.. ..16-23 

Priming 177 

R 

Radiator: 

heats Ill 

cleaning 112 

filling 23-112 

frozen 113 

leaking 112 

troubles 179 

Rich Mixture: 

how evidenced 108 

Rim Cutting: 
tires 159 

Rims: 

care of 159,168 

Rings : 

piston 115-120 



Seized or Stuck Pistons 187 

Shifting Gears 18 

Short Circuits 135-136 

Signals: 

horn 25, 36, 37 

manual 25, 36 

Skidding 20-21 

Smoke: 

from exhaust 186 

Solutions: 

anti-freeze 113 

radiator cleaning Ill 

Spark, Driving with: 

advanced 18, 184 

retarded 18 

Spark Plugs: 

adjustment of points 142 

care of 141-143 

carbon on 142 

testing 142 

troubles 181, 182, 187 

Speed Changes 18 



Springs: 

care of 155-156 

lubrication 61, 69, 70 

Starter: 

care of 153-145 

proper use of 17, 18, 144 

troubles of 145, 176, 177 

Steering Gear: 

care of 153,154 

adjustment of 154 

lubrication of 59,153 

troubles of 191 

Stitch in time saves nine. .39-46 

Storage Battery; see battery. 

Systematic Inspection 42-46 

iubrication 58 

T 

Tank, Gasoline: 

storage, troubles 185 

Tank, Vacuum 177, 185 

Timer (see Ford Timer 
: 98-100) 

Tires: 

care of 157-162 

economy in buying ....157-162 

repair of tread cuts 160 

mis-use 159-162 

tire-fillers 160 

Traffic Laws 35 

Transmission: \ 

care of 127-128 

lubrication 59, 67 

troubles in 127,128,191 

Tops: 

care and repair of, 163, 164, 
169,171 

Troubles : 

diagnosing 173-175 

digest of 176-192 

U 
Universal Joints: 

care of 131 

lubrication ....59, 60, 129, 130 

troubles 130, 131,191 

Upholstery: 

care and repair of.. ..164, 172 



INDEX— Continued 



V I 

Vacuum Tank 177, 185 

Vibration of engine 182 

Vibration Spark Coils..l40, 178 

Vibrator Points 140 

adjusting 140 

W 

Water Circulation: 

"hard" and dirty water.... Ill 

clogged 112-114 

Water in^ Carburetor 101 

Water in Crank Case 187 

Water in Gasoline 101 

Weak Battery: 

how indicated, 176,177,179, 
188 



Wear: 

due to improper lubrica- 
tion, illustrations, 60, 61, 
63, 64, 65, 67, 68, 69, 70 

Wheels: 

alignment of 161 

bearings 152 

lubrication 58 

Wiring and Connections: 

electrical 134 

troubles 176 

Y 

You must know what makes 
it go 11-15 



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